Touching up acid stone wash damage.

S

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Good day members.

First post and I need to say thank you to all of you. You're helping to fuel an obsession.

Owned blades since young, for some strange reason attracted to sharp and pointy things and find my children have this affliction as well.

My youngest son and I work together as carpenters and woodworkers applying best practices, looking out for my clients.

That said it brings me to post here. My son and I are trying to learn this craft and although I don't mind learning the hard way, sometimes, I am trying not to pass that method along to him. Not too much at least.

I've purchased some relatively inexpensive un-scaled blades, working on handles making using Micarta, G10, Dymondwood, and natural woods. Scraps from flooring jobs, furniture building and cabinets and whatever..

So far, it's looking good as far as the shaping goes. I've tried a router to follow the blade's handle area to rough it out closely and it works, but for leaving a shine where the bit is so close to the spine.
Taking the scales to the next level of fit is where I am having the challenge.

The blades are D2 and are acid – stone washed patina, and that has been sanded away on the spine, choil, etc. areas during epoxy removal and stock removal/sanding.

Permanent marker looks so bad and does not last a heartbeat. Vinegar doesn't darken to match, nor does mustard.

Is there an acid or etchant and procedure that anyone can recommend considering the materials I am using?

Any advice is welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Scott
 
If you heat the vinegar, you'll get a darker color faster, otherwise ferric chloride is relatively inexpensive and works very well. I bought a gallon of that on Amazon. I have not tried wiping it on, only dipping blades prior to installing handles. It is a dark color and may stain your scales.

The best solution to your problem that I can think of, if I understand it correctly, is to use temporary pins to hold your scales in place during shaping and sanding, then removing them and fixing any color/finish issues the process left on your blade, then reassemble with your final pins and glue. That would allow you to redip your blades, or boil them in vinegar, without worrying about affecting the scales.

Then when gluing the scales on, keep some acetone and a rag handy and remove excess epoxy that way, rather than after it cures by a mechanical removal method like files or sandpaper.

Just this weekend I scrapped the scales on a blade I'd already installed them on permanently because I wasn't happy with the blade finish and with the scales attached, I couldn't get it the way I wanted it.
 
Thank you kuraki for the informative reply.

I didn't bother with heated vinegar mainly because I believed that q-tipping it on, it would cool so fast as to negate the heat activity. I guess I could coat the scales with something resistant and dunk the blade.

I think your suggestion of using the ferric chloride may be the answer I'm looking for, for the knives in question.
Do you think the ferric chloride brushed on will effect natural wood scales that are sealed with multiple coats of CA glue?

Better yet is the technique you've suggested for me to use in future doings.

BTW, how did you remove the permanent scales you weren't satisfied with?

Once again, Thank you for responding.

S
 
If your scales are sealed well it should work. Even though the FC is a stronger etchant than vinegar, it does still require some time for the reaction to occur. It's also thicker somewhat thicker viscosity, it hangs on the blade a little bit.

I was able to drive the pins out and get a chisel under the edge of the scale. Once I did that it came off rather easily. It didn't "pop" off like if it were glued with CA, but once the chisel was started it separated rather easily as I tapped it in. Another way to do it is to just grind them off.
 
I believe they are well sealed, but with natural wood and homegrown finish/sealer, I won't know till I mess up.

I'll give the FC a go, thanks.

If all turns out junk then I'll remove them and start anew.

S
 
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