Toughest Current Spyderco?

Rebel Nimrod

Rebel Nimrod

Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
740
Yesterday evening I was helping put a battery in my car and the mechanic had a new socket he was trying to open that was held by an extremely tough plastic insert, I guess to prevent theft. You couldn’t get a screwdriver between it so had to use my knife, which was my office carry Centafante 3. Way too thin of a blade for that work and boogered up the edge pretty good, which leads to my question. What’s the best current production, medium sized Spyderco work knife? One that can take some reasonable prying with a strong tip and edge. I am considering a Manix 2 backlock, but I have had S30V chip on me before. Anyone use one? Suggestions?
 
When I see threads like this it just makes me want to scream for a Sprint Run of the Stainless RESCUE models ( C-14 & C-45). I've been using my C-45 Stainless RESCUE a lot in the past few months and with the possible exception of one of the Chinook models I'm not sure if Spyderco ever made anything more rigid and tough as those Stainless RESCUE models are. It's really sad that they had such a short tenure in Spyderco's main line up. Because if more people had tried them I believe they would still be making them IMO.

For EDC use I don't see how you could beat the current Military and ParaMilitary models. I've used my M390 Military model like I hate it for months now and you can't even tell I've used it much at all. But those older/discontinued Chinook models were truly built like a Sherman Tank IMO.
 
If you are only talking folders, the Tuff lives up to its name. 3V steel.

Also, the Tatanka is plenty tough, as is the M4 Manix 2, the Shaman, and some of the sprints in Cruwear.
 
The stainless Endura has a sabre grind which makes the tip and top half of the knife suitable for “light prying.” The handles need a little trac tape, though. If you damage vg10 it’s a lot easier than 3v to touch up. But I would’ve used snips or a leather man cutter on that plastic
I paid $65 each for 2 stainless enduras which were listed “used-good” but we’re ac lnib last year!
 
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JD Spydo said:
When I see threads like this it just makes me want to scream for a Sprint Run of the Stainless RESCUE models ( C-14 & C-45).
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I will have to check those out!
Have a Military, but I don’t see the Mili or PM as having a strong tip.

jstn said:
If you are only talking folders, the Tuff lives up to its name. 3V steel.

Also, the Tatanka is plenty tough, as is the M4 Manix 2, the Shaman, and some of the sprints in Cruwear.
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LOVE to have a Tuff, but at those prices I wouldn’t use it as a beater. Tatanka! I would sever a limb with that hoss! :( Manix 2 M4, that’s a thought. I have a GB2, but don’t like the rust.
Yonose said:
The stainless Endura has a sabre grind which makes the tip and top half of the knife suitable for “light prying.” The handles need a little trac tape, though. If you damage vg10 it’s a lot easier than 3v to touch up. But I would’ve used snips or a leather man cutter on that plastic
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Saber Endura, that would probably have a thicker edge and reasonably priced, I will consider that!
 
Manix2 Backlock makes a great beater. GB1 was my project beater until I got the M2 Backlock. In the same vein, the Native5 is pure utility and I've never had an issue treating it with little respect, and it makes a better office carry than the Manix2 IMO :D

If you don't like rust and you want "toughness" , it sounds like an H1 Salt would be a pretty affordable solution and great beater, though not as much rigidity in the handle. Should be less chippy, but in the rare occasion that you actually have to pry with a knife you probably should have a back up $13 Kershaw in the car.
 
I'd go with a sabre grind.
Maybe a stainless Delica would do the trick.
Or even less money but flat ground BD1 on the Polestar that seems well built for a bargain.
Either way they'd both make good utility beaters if they don't make it into rotation and you're not out much cash.
That's where all of mine end up anyway, stuck in a drawer, toolbox, truck console, etc.
They get far more use than the knives I actually carry for some reason.
Probably because I like my shiny edcs to remain that way I guess.
 
Waved Endura also comes with Saber grind and is very tough.

Or waved Delica for something abit smaller

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flatblackcapo said:
Sounds like a Techno might do the job.
Edit to add: If the mechanic couldn't get the socket free of the packaging on their own, get a new mechanic.
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Aren’t those kind of short? I know they are sturdy.

Barman1 said:
I'd go with a sabre grind.
Maybe a stainless Delica would do the trick.
Or even less money but flat ground BD1 on the Polestar that seems well built for a bargain.
Either way they'd both make good utility beaters if they don't make it into rotation and you're not out much cash.
That's where all of mine end up anyway, stuck in a drawer, toolbox, truck console, etc.
They get far more use than the knives I actually carry for some reason.
Probably because I like my shiny edcs to remain that way I guess.
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I just ordered a Byrd CaraCara, maybe I should have stepped up to the Polestar, they look pretty good and I bet you’re right, with the lower carbon content probably pretty tough.
 
Rebel Nimrod said:
Yesterday evening I was helping put a battery in my car and the mechanic had a new socket he was trying to open that was held by an extremely tough plastic insert, I guess to prevent theft. You couldn’t get a screwdriver between it so had to use my knife, which was my office carry Centafante 3. Way too thin of a blade for that work and boogered up the edge pretty good, which leads to my question. What’s the best current production, medium sized Spyderco work knife? One that can take some reasonable prying with a strong tip and edge. I am considering a Manix 2 backlock, but I have had S30V chip on me before. Anyone use one? Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Pacific Salt. Mine have been loaned out and abused and after a quick sharpening they are ready for more.
 
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