Toxic Blue?

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Sep 21, 2013
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Hi,
I have a question about 'Cold Blueing': is it toxic? I mean the finished blade, when it's all done and settled. I believe that I've heard before that you shouldn't use a blued blade for foodprep, but I'm not sure.


Thanks - Andy
 
Yes, it is toxic. Would not use a blued blade for any type of food prep whatsoever. I had a few of my blades blued and have since stripped them after I made a call to Birchwood Casey and asked them for myself.

So again, the answer is NO! Do not use a blued blade around food.

Hope this helps. There are many other ways to get a nice patina tho.
 
I only use cold blue on my stripped hawks..........As a seperate comment, if you use mineral oil on your cutting tools it is non toxic. Mineral oil will prevent rust and is edible. A tool with cold bluing on it should never be in contact with your food.
 
Dexwithers said:
Yes, it is toxic. Would not use a blued blade for any type of food prep whatsoever. I had a few of my blades blued and have since stripped them after I made a call to Birchwood Casey and asked them for myself.

So again, the answer is NO! Do not use a blued blade around food.

Hope this helps. There are many other ways to get a nice patina tho.
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Allright, thank you very much!
So I'm glad that I put a patina on my 16 and didn't blue it :)
 
upnorth said:
I only use cold blue on my stripped hawks..........As a seperate comment, if you use mineral oil on your cutting tools it is non toxic. Mineral oil will prevent rust and is edible. A tool with cold bluing on it should never be in contact with your food.
Click to expand...

Yep, thank you!
I live in Ballistol country :) and grew up with that stuff. But I think olive oil isn't bad either, what'd you think?
 
I've used olive oil but prefer stuff like almond oil, grape seed oil, sunflower oil, or safflower oil. Really just what I have in the kitchen. The olive oil tends to get more sticky over time in my experience. The mineral oil is great too. I sometime use that as well.

I've actually started using a mix of almond oil and bees wax that I made. It's sorta like a cream. It really seems to stay on the blade.
 
Dexwithers said:
I've used olive oil but prefer stuff like almond oil, grape seed oil, sunflower oil, or safflower oil. Really just what I have in the kitchen. The olive oil tends to get more sticky over time in my experience. The mineral oil is great too. I sometime use that as well.

I've actually started using a mix of almond oil and bees wax that I made. It's sorta like a cream. It really seems to stay on the blade.
Click to expand...

I agree with the olive oil - it gets a strange viscosity to it over time. The grapeseed oil I picked up does, too.
I've done a paste of walnut oil and beeswax, but I mostly use it on wood. I'll have to try it on a blade sometime.
I used flaxseed oil (picked up for seasoning cast iron) on my 7 a week or 2 ago - I'll check and see how it's holding up.
My 16 was etched and cold-blued when I got it, but I stripped, sanded, boiled, patina'd and oiled it shortly thereafter. Though it doesn't spend much time in the kitchen, I sure hope it's safe now.
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
Mineral oil can be a bit of a laxative, FYI.
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Now I see why so many prefer mineral oil. Dual purpose! :D
I've always used olive oil and I too have found that it gets sticky over time.
I'll have to give the mineral oil a shot....on my knives that is.
 
Mineral oil is great stuff and Vaseline is what Camillus used to protect the edges on Beckers before shipping..... Mineral oil is tasteless and I use it to recondition cutting boards as well as a surface shield on carbon steel......

E
 
It's obviously more expensive than mineral oil, but I really like Frog Lube as a food-safe CLP for my knives. It's marketed as being for firearms, but I use other stuff for that.
 
Ballistol is actually mineral oil or has it as a main ingredient. Do you guys know Ballistol?
 
There are company's out there that make food safe cold blueing for knives, I dont remember off the top of my head who does but it's out there.
 
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