TP Slicing with Endura 4 ZDP-189 with a coarse edge off Norton Sil Carbide Stone

Ankerson

Ankerson

Knife and Computer Geek
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Nov 2, 2002
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Off the Norton Fine 8"x3" Fine Sil Carbide stone, no stropping needed, all I did was knock off the burr with a ceramic, took all of 5 mins and the knife was dull before I sharpened it.

[Youtube]MjOOXc-BRj8[/youtube]
 
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I have only used the Norton Silicon Carbide stones for rough initial sharpening on woodworking plane irons and chisels. Some woodworkers will use a Norton fine India stone (aluminum oxide) for blades like chisels and just strop afterwards, making sure to remove any wire edge. The India stones give you a razor sharp shaving edge, but it is not very polished. It is sufficient for a chisel, but not quite refined enough for working end grain with a block plane.

I was surprised you got as good a working edge as shown in your video using the Norton fine silicon carbide. I have always liked the Norton stones, and have a pretty large set of them.

I have always wondered if you really need a very refined edge on something like a kitchen knife for example. Some people, like Leonard Lee, recommend a coarser edge for a kitchen knife and a much finer, polished edge for wood carving tools, for example.
 
arty said:
I have only used the Norton Silicon Carbide stones for rough initial sharpening on woodworking plane irons and chisels. Some woodworkers will use a Norton fine India stone (aluminum oxide) for blades like chisels and just strop afterwards, making sure to remove any wire edge. The India stones give you a razor sharp shaving edge, but it is not very polished. It is sufficient for a chisel, but not quite refined enough for working end grain with a block plane.

I was surprised you got as good a working edge as shown in your video using the Norton fine silicon carbide. I have always liked the Norton stones, and have a pretty large set of them.

I have always wondered if you really need a very refined edge on something like a kitchen knife for example. Some people, like Leonard Lee, recommend a coarser edge for a kitchen knife and a much finer, polished edge for wood carving tools, for example.
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I have a set of India Stones too, C/M/F along with the Fine and Med Sil Carbide, but I really like the Sil Carbide better because they cut so fast and it doesn't matter what steel it is. :D

I agree the coarser edge does work better in the kitchen than a highly refined edge.

All that really needs to be done is to raise a nice burr and knock it off and it's there. :)
 
While trying different finishes on the Stretch in ZDP, I began to notice that the slightly courser edge would work much better for my than the mirror polished finish.
 
RevDevil said:
While trying different finishes on the Stretch in ZDP, I began to notice that the slightly courser edge would work much better for my than the mirror polished finish.
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You will find that to be true with the high Alloy steels, same with S90V, 20CP, M4, M390, ELMAX etc.
 
The fine stone is all you need to sharpen a dull ZDP blade? If so thats impressive and efficient and I might look into buying a stone. Thanks for showing :thumbup:.
 
kawr said:
The fine stone is all you need to sharpen a dull ZDP blade? If so thats impressive and efficient and I might look into buying a stone. Thanks for showing :thumbup:.
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Silicone Carbide will cut any steel very, very fast, nothing cuts faster except maybe diamonds depending. :)
 
I'm not so surprised, I used to strop with a SiC paste as the coarse stropping just after a XC Diamond stone then going to some green CroOx. I've always wondered why no one made a stone from the stuff, I may have to get one of these!
 
Nice video. Illustrates some of the most important things when it comes to sharpening, no you dont need the latest and greatest gismo (though they are nice to have), but apply basics such as getting the edge aligned correctly produces a sharp edge (even if a bit course for some).
 
marthinus said:
Nice video. Illustrates some of the most important things when it comes to sharpening, no you dont need the latest and greatest gismo (though they are nice to have), but apply basics such as getting the edge aligned correctly produces a sharp edge (even if a bit course for some).
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That's what I keep trying to tell people, freehanding isn't hard or a big deal, it just takes practice.

I use the EP for convience (testing, sharpening a lot of knives and need them done fast and exactly the same), not because I can't sharpen a knife..... ;)
 
Nicely done.

Out of curiosity, do you happen to know the grit size on a fine SiC stone?

I use thread cutting lubricant on my India stones. What lubricant, if any, do you use with your SiC stone?
 
Nice vid Jim, and thanks for the website.

Do you think there is any quality differences between the single and combo stones? And +1 to what grit is the fine sic or do you have any close up pics of the bevel?
 
Ankerson said:
That's what I keep trying to tell people, freehanding isn't hard or a big deal, it just takes practice.

I use the EP for convience (testing, sharpening a lot of knives and need them done fast and exactly the same), not because I can't sharpen a knife..... ;)
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free-hand sharpening is 10% equipment and 90% technique and you sir have that 90% dialed in.

question about the stone: is the stone hard or soft, do the particles easily dislodge like a waterstone?
 
knarfeng said:
Nicely done.

Out of curiosity, do you happen to know the grit size on a fine SiC stone?

I use thread cutting lubricant on my India stones. What lubricant, if any, do you use with your SiC stone?
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It's like 45 Microns or 280 Grit. :)

Water or Windex works fine.

knifenut1013 said:
Nice vid Jim, and thanks for the website.

Do you think there is any quality differences between the single and combo stones? And +1 to what grit is the fine sic or do you have any close up pics of the bevel?
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Didn't take any, but I can, not too sure about quality difference.

jimnolimit said:
free-hand sharpening is 10% equipment and 90% technique and you sir have that 90% dialed in.

question about the stone: is the stone hard or soft, do the particles easily dislodge like a waterstone?
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It's pretty hard and it doesn't load up much at all.
 
singularity35 said:
280 grit seems very coarse. No wonder it cuts fast. Is the Norton 280 grit similar to a 280 grit wet/dry?
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It cuts smoother than you would think. :)

Photos for those who wanted them. :)

DSC_30091.JPG


DSC_30111.JPG
 
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