Traditional folder care?

[Oldbugr]

So, I'll have to admit I'm new to the old timey knives and lurked to long and got bit. My question is, alot of the user folders I see pictures of are slightly corroded (patina?), or slightly rusted? The knives that look like they are collected or safe queens all look new of course. I ordered a Tidiote jack #66 from 2010 I believe (river green jigged bone handle) this morning and was wandering how or what to do about careing for the knife? keep it cleaned and oiled? I believe it's 1095 steel.

 

[Will Power]

Wipe down & sometimes an oiling.

Fact is, it's use that keeps them good. Lolling around in some drawer, especially if they have not been cleaned is what fosters corrosion.

I very much hope you enjoy your new knife and new found enthusiasm.

Regards, Will

 

[Pipeman]

Hi there Oldugr
I carry most of my slip joints so they get pocket lint ect in the slots and collect the usual grit from work. I use those bamboo meat screwers for cleaning out the slots and under the kick etc. You can whittle them down to chisels to scrape without marking the steel. I dip the scewer in fine mineral oil to clean the slots and oil the joint. I like to oil bone scales once a year or so.

Best regards

Robin

 

[Jack Black]

Hi there Oldugr
I carry most of my slip joints so they get pocket lint ect in the slots and collect the usual grit from work. I use those bamboo meat screwers for cleaning out the slots and under the kick etc. You can whittle them down to chisels to scrape without marking the steel. I dip the scewer in fine mineral oil to clean the slots and oil the joint.

Good tip! I usually use a combination of pipe-cleaners, cotton buds, and whittled-down matchsticks. Starting using the match-sticks as a kid, but since I stopped smoking 35 years ago (when I was 17, started when I was 7), it's always seemed kind of wasteful since then. I'll add bamboo skewers to my shopping list :thumbup:

 

[Campbellclanman]

I use Baby oil.... it has no petroleum products whatsoever and is pure Mineral Oil, as the guys have already said wipe when finished using, and a maintenance oil in the joints-again using Mineral Oil.
Where I live you have to be careful storing a knife made from 1095, again a good wipe with baby oil if you are going to store a knife.

 

[Pipeman]

Good tip! I usually use a combination of pipe-cleaners, cotton buds, and whittled-down matchsticks. Starting using the match-sticks as a kid, but since I stopped smoking 35 years ago (when I was 17, started when I was 7), it's always seemed kind of wasteful since then. I'll add bamboo skewers to my shopping list :thumbup:

Jack
The scewers are great for slightly rusted back springs in the slots. You can press very hard without them splintering like wooden match sticks. Great tools ;-)

Best regards

Robin

 

[thatotherguy]

If you're going to use the knife just keep it clean and keep the pivots and springs (any moving parts) oiled and you'll be fine. A 1095 blade will patina pretty quickly, don't worry about it too much. Patina helps prevent rust, like the bluing on a fine firearm.
If it won't be used, make it a weekly (or monthly) ritual of cleaning the old oil off of the knife and applying a coat of new oil.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I use Baby oil.... it has no petroleum products whatsoever and is pure Mineral Oil, as the guys have already said wipe when finished using, and a maintenance oil in the joints-again using Mineral Oil.
Where I live you have to be careful storing a knife made from 1095, again a good wipe with baby oil if you are going to store a knife.

Actually, mineral oil is itself a petroleum product (a 'distillate of petroleum'). In the case of baby oil and the 'pharmaceutical' grade ('USP') laxative stuff, it's just more highly refined (and baby oil includes an added scent). The degree of refinement is what makes it 'safe' for food use, as it doesn't get absorbed by the body and is completely non-reactive.

There are some other 'baby oils' on the market made from other non-petroleum sources, but the most common type is made using petroleum-based mineral oil.


David

 

[Oldbugr]

Thanks for all of the cleaning/oil info. Can hardly wait to receive the knife and I only ordered it this morning!!

 

[jackknife]

Oldbugr, I'll gve ya a good tip on maintaining a slip joint pocket knife. All you need is a pack of matches. The old fashioned book of paper matches.

Once a week r so, take one match and tear it out of the book. Use the torn end to wipe out any accumulated lint, grit, dust, or dirt. The match works great. After wiping out, tear out one more match, drop one drop of fine oil on the torn end. Use this to mop the oil over the end of the blade tang. That's it. Finished. I've been doingthis for most of my life, including the Buck stockman I carried for 25 years.

For the blade, just wipe it down with a dry bandana once a day. If it's damp, or the knife gets wet, then twice a day. I've never seen a knife yet that if wiped down in the evening, rusted away. So just wipe it in the morning and again that night. Let it develope a patina. It won't hurt anything, and may even help. It was a custom in the old days to stick a new knife in a potato overnight to give it a start on a protective coating.

Don't over complicate matters. You'll be fine.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

(...) Let it develope a patina. It won't hurt anything, and may even help. It was a custom in the old days to stick a new knife in a potato overnight to give it a start on a protective coating.

Don't over complicate matters. You'll be fine.

:thumbup:
I'm convinced the patina helps. I've been carrying a Schrade USA 8OT (1095) for a while now, and have 'tinkered' with a forced patina on the main clip blade, while not yet messing with the other two blades. Started out with a 'pickle juice' patina (mostly vinegar), and have also 'dipped' the clip blade into a coffee pot from a coffee maker that I'd just 'de-calcified' with vinegar & water. The vinegar/water mix after the decalcification was hot (~180°F), and I'd hold the blade in it for maybe 30 seconds at a time, then lift the blade to inspect. The blade would actually darken before my eyes, more-so after lifting it out and exposing it to the air. Repeated the 'dip' three or four times, after which the blade was virtually black. Used baking soda to scrub the blade afterwards, which took much of the really black oxide off, but left a very even grey patina behind. I've since noticed this finish resists the spotting that I'm otherwise seeing on the spey and sheepsfoot blades, which yet haven't had a 'forced' patina applied. Very educational experiment; really opened my eyes.

I also noticed, the presence of the pre-existing 'pickle juice' patina helped resist red rust during the hot water/vinegar dip. I could see a little red rust develop on the tang of the clip blade during the dip, which had not previously been patina'd at all. The rest of the blade's surface, which already had some patina, turned black instead.

 

[Jack Black]

Jack
The scewers are great for slightly rusted back springs in the slots. You can press very hard without them splintering like wooden match sticks. Great tools ;-)

Best regards

Robin

Thanks again for the tip Robin, much obliged to you sir

Oldbugr, I'll gve ya a good tip on maintaining a slip joint pocket knife. All you need is a pack of matches. The old fashioned book of paper matches.

I gave a book of matches to a guest who'd misplaced his lighter the other week. He didn't even know what they were!

 

[Oldbugr]

I just might have to try one of the forced patina methods-sound interesting.

 

[Jack Black]

I just might have to try one of the forced patina methods-sound interesting.

Yeah, me too. Hmmm

 

[pertinux]

I carry most of my slip joints so they get pocket lint etc. in the slots and collect the usual grit from work. I use those bamboo meat skewers for cleaning out the slots and under the kick etc. You can whittle them down to chisels to scrape without marking the steel. I dip the skewer in fine mineral oil to clean the slots and oil the joint. I like to oil bone scales once a year or so....

...The skewers are great for slightly rusted back springs in the slots. You can press very hard without them splintering like wooden match sticks. Great tools ;-)

What a great idea! I'm well-versed in "mineral oil," quickly added pipecleaners and matchsticks to my repertoire, but have often wished for a stronger, more refined scraper, just as you've described. Thanks!

I use Baby oil....

Campbell!

... Campbell?

Where's the dog? I hardly recognized ye.


~ P.

 

[Campbellclanman]

Thank you David, your input is always valued greatly!... I was aware if it being a petroleum product but thought it was refined to quite a huge degree?

~P ...lol, yes please forgive me folks, my Wedding is in one week, and funds are at the lowest right now.... I will be back to full support of the forum asap!

 

[pertinux]

~P ...lol, yes please forgive me folks, my Wedding is in one week, and funds are at the lowest right now.... I will be back to full support of the forum asap!

Campbell, no aspersions meant, and no forgiveness needed on your part-- I just missed seeing your dog, and it took me longer to register your name as you.

Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials!

~ P.

 

[jackknife]

I think the worst mistake in maintaining pocketknives is using too much oil. Oil seeps and spreads very well. A tiny bit goes a long way, and too much attracts dirt too well.

Carl.

 

[Will Power]

I think the worst mistake in maintaining pocketknives is using too much oil. Oil seeps and spreads very well. A tiny bit goes a long way, and too much attracts dirt too well.

Carl.

Very true indeed. It attracts all manner of muck if you over oil, particularly the folding knife's nemesis- GRIT! Crunch crunch....

 

[midnight flyer]

I think the worst mistake in maintaining pocketknives is using too much oil. Oil seeps and spreads very well. A tiny bit goes a long way, and too much attracts dirt too well.

Carl.

I agree. I only oil when I sharpen. And then I only put out the tiniest dot of oil I can on the pivot with the blade half open. I work it back and forth a few times, then wipe off any excess if there is any and use it to swipe over the blade.

Robert