Traditional issue - rust!

Camillus

Camillus

Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
2,119
Hi, can't decide whether this is a maintenance issue, storage or a knife collecting issue, but I will place it here. Over the last 12 months I've accumulated about 20 GEC knives of varying types, but mainly in 1095 steel. I also have a few old Schrades, black box Winchesters, and other older models, often with a natural patina that they came with.

My issue is that I can't seem to store my GEC knives in 1095 in a way that avoids rust forming - either from a small spot I missed after the last handling, from the atmosphere, or other hazards. I had a major fright recently when some fly spray ended up mottling some blades. Fortunately this came off with metal polish, but more commonly, a small pepper spot or area of rust will appear on a knife blade or backspring.

It's reached the point where I am not sure whether to continue collecting GEC 1095 knives, which costs me a lot. I don't want to handle knives which are rare or expensive, if the inevitable result is that I will miss a rust spot and permanently spoil the knife. I really don't want these to be in a display case, but do want them to remain in as new condition.

Can anyone offer any advice on storage, maintenance or collection to help me with this problem?

 
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I coat mine in frog lube before storage. Another option is put them in a safe with a dehumidifier. Anything to keep the moister off the knives. To get rid of spotting that has already started use Flitz and a microfiber cloth to clean it off. Hope that helps
 
My issue is that I can't seem to store my GEC knives in 1095 in a way that avoids rust
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Since this seems to be more of a carbon steel storage issue than a usage issue, let's try the thread here for a spell and see how it goes. There are a lot of collectors in Traditional who don't normally post in Maintenance.
 
You can try using gun paper....it's available from Brownell's and is a material that produces a vapor which inhibits corrosion....you and also try eezox, a rust preventative liquid.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I've had great success over the years using a Miracle Cloth. Google it.

-- Mark
 
Where do you keep them ?
you can put a cup full of chalk powder with them to absorb moisture, but that's if put them in some sort of storage.
 
It sounds like you are collecting the knives to display and eventually resell rather than to use. In this case, the following may be helpful...

bernard_levine said:
Definitely do not store knives in leather sheaths. Acid in the leather will react with metals, especially copper alloys (yellow brass, white brass aka nickel silver), carbon steel, eventually even stainless steel.

I have not tried using 'wax' on blades, even though I was given free samples, and offered substantial payment to endorse a certain R. wax.

I stand by the tried and true: food grade mineral oil (aka Japanese sword oil), a few drops on a soft clean rag, and use the rag to wipe down the knife. The oil is volatile, slowly, and will eventually depart without residue. Products that leave a solid residue (notoriously WD-40, also some gun lube products) are a bad idea, and this is why I do not like the idea of using wax.

Where museums do use wax is on excavated heavily rusted iron or steel artifacts, that will crumble if left to dry. These are sometimes vacuum (or freeze) dried, then stabilized with a wax or other polymer. It should be ObViouS why this is inappropriate for an intact item.

Knives and anything else of value should be stored in a climate-controlled space (NOT an attic, garage, basement, or uninsulated closet).

Ideally they should be in contact only with an acid free material -- acid free paper, matte board, or museum boxes. Note that museum boxes for objects do NOT have tops. This is because objects should be open to circulating air, to discourage condensation. Not true of paper items. Items should also be kept in darkness, except when you are looking at them.

I have spent many hours in the climate controlled store rooms at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, and I learned most of this there.

Their storage drawers have half height fronts and backs, so air can circulate readily. Their cabinets and drawer stacks lock for security, but they are well ventilated, again for air circulation.

Museums control both temperature and humidity, but if you control temperature, that should be sufficient. If you do not stabilize temperature, expect condensation, followed by rust and corrosion of metal, and rot of organics.

BRL...
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Camillus, I had the same problem when trying to maintain a wide rotation of GEC knives to carry. I tried mineral oil, I tried forcing patinas and nothing worked. Finally I sold off most my carbon steel and now I buy nothing but stainless. I still keep 3 carbon knives that I can keep a close eye on but just the other day I picked up my forced patina'd Bullnose's steel liners were rusting! It's maddening.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Where do you keep them ?
you can put a cup full of chalk powder with them to absorb moisture, but that's if put them in some sort of storage.
Click to expand...

I had them in a open topped knife drawer, which worked well until the fly spray incident. The other day I bought a whole bunch of small clear plastic zip loc bags, which work well, but I can't see the blade as they are stored closed, so I can't be 100% sure no rust is forming.

I thought maybe a special oil or gel, or some fabric knife sleeves, or a combination of the two, might be best. I know a lot of people on these forums have large collections - do you guys store them in their original wax paper and tubes?
 
I stored mine of years in some wood boxes and now in large tackle box . I use those sicla packs that come in shoes and such with success. Plus I keep mine whipped down with a break free GUN cloth and an Outers brand one before that.
 
I keep my carbon knives rubbed down with 3-in-1 oil. It's probably not food-grade and might kill me tomorrow, but I haven't had any rust yet that didn't come when I bought the knife. If it's a knife in "storage," I slather the blades and backsprings with it fairly liberally. If it's a knife I'm using I just dribble a drop in each joint and wipe the excess on the backspring and across each side of the blade and spine, and repeat every couple of weeks.
 
this has me gravely concerned for my traditionals, time to break out the 3-in-1 oil next week and coat everything :(
 
Camillus said:
I know a lot of people on these forums have large collections - do you guys store them in their original wax paper and tubes?
Click to expand...

Yes. Knives that I buy for collecting get treated one of two ways. They get wiped down with a light coating of oil. Others that arrive with the oil wiped off (some dealers do this) get wiped down with a chamois to remove all traces of fingerprint smudges and then placed back in their tubes. My users get the same treatment but are stored inside wooden cigar boxes.
 
I use Ren wax on the blades and Rem oil in the joints. Then I store them in Jewelry cabinets with felt lined drawers. I also add packs of silica chips to draw of any humidity.
 
"I stand by the tried and true: food grade mineral oil (aka Japanese sword oil), a few drops on a soft clean rag, and use the rag to wipe down the knife. The oil is volatile, slowly, and will eventually depart without residue. Products that leave a solid residue (notoriously WD-40, also some gun lube products) are a bad idea, and this is why I do not like the idea of using wax.

Where museums do use wax is on excavated heavily rusted iron or steel artifacts, that will crumble if left to dry. These are sometimes vacuum (or freeze) dried, then stabilized with a wax or other polymer. It should be ObViouS why this is inappropriate for an intact item.

Knives and anything else of value should be stored in a climate-controlled space (NOT an attic, garage, basement, or uninsulated closet).

Ideally they should be in contact only with an acid free material -- acid free paper, matte board, or museum boxes. Note that museum boxes for objects do NOT have tops. This is because objects should be open to circulating air, to discourage condensation. Not true of paper items. Items should also be kept in darkness, except when you are looking at them."


I follow what is recommended in the post from Supratentorial. I use food grade mineral oil on all incoming knives...even when brand new from the dealer. I know they are inspected/handled before shipping and I want to make sure they are clean before I put them in storage. I also use gloves when wiping down the knife before putting it away for storage. I store them in the tubes with wax paper. This has worked very well for me and it only takes a couple minutes to wipe down a knife.
 
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