Traditionals and wood working

M

mdsmith

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Jan 7, 2009
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Hey guys. I don't do a ton of of bushcraft type of stuff, but I do like to take my boy out for a hike on the weekends, and usually end up doing some type of whittling or processing. This usually ends up being done with whatever knife is in my pocket, which is usually a slip joint, either a Case or Old Timer. I noticed that almost everytime I do, even if its just a simple feather sticks, my slip joints end up with a little blade play. Is this normal? I mean, I can fix it with a light squeeze of a C clamp, but I'm surprised that this happens. I know a fixed blade is preferred for this type of stuff, but for me it's usually just impromptu and I use whatever's in my pocket. Does anyone else have this issue? Am I doing more with a slip joint that I should?
 
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I haven't had that problem with the small amount of whittling I have done. Maybe send the Case in to have it looked at next time it happens, with an explanation of what is happening and from what. That's all I can think of.

Good luck,
Connor
 
If it were me, I would stop and think about before I worried anymore. Not all knives are perfect and "lock up like a bank vault". Some never did, not when they were brand new.

If you bought the knives as users, I wouldn't worry about it. I have a couple of old CASE knives that have had a bit of play since I bought them 30+ years ago. They have been carried and used a lot and still work fine and the play has never gotten worse, but is always there.

And you won't overwork either of those brand of knives with just a bit of common sense. Many folks go hiking and hunting with only a slip joint in their pocket. Use it exclusively as a cutting instrument as a knife should be, and they will probably outlast you, play and all.

Robert
 
Here is my personal take on this. I whittle a lot of hardwoods. I have heard guys say this is light use, but I do not agree with that. Even simply whittling bark off a stick can cause a lot of lateral force on the pivot. Now, with that said, I think if a slipjoint can not handle this then its a poor USER. I have used my Henckels (boker) whittler for about 10 years for this kind of use. The pivot has never come loose and there is zero play on any of the three blades.

When you actually use a knife for more difficult carving than the typical butter soft wood more stress is present. Much more actually. Even manipulating the knife mainly by the blade stress is there. If your Case knife keeps coming loose then maybe send it back. Boker is not some fancy brand, they just make decent knives.

It would be one thing to say, "its a user so the blade play FROM the FACTORY is no big deal". Its another thing to say, "your knife's pivot easily coming loose is all good since its a user"

Kevin
 
richstag said:
Here is my personal take on this. I whittle a lot of hardwoods. I have heard guys say this is light use, but I do not agree with that. Even simply whittling bark off a stick can cause a lot of lateral force on the pivot. Now, with that said, I think if a slipjoint can not handle this then its a poor USER. I have used my Henckels (boker) whittler for about 10 years for this kind of use. The pivot has never come loose and there is zero play on any of the three blades.

When you actually use a knife for more difficult carving than the typical butter soft wood more stress is present. Much more actually. Even manipulating the knife mainly by the blade stress is there. If your Case knife keeps coming loose then maybe send it back. Boker is not some fancy brand, they just make decent knives.

It would be one thing to say, "its a user so the blade play FROM the FACTORY is no big deal". Its another thing to say, "your knife's pivot easily coming loose is all good since its a user"

Kevin
Click to expand...

Most of my slip joints have a little blade play. I don't worry about it. I have an old handmade slip joint made by a German POW that was working on the Moran family farm in 1943 or 44. It has all kinds of blade wobble, but still cuts like a razor. I think of it as a old 1911 that rattles when you shake it, but works great at it's intended task. I love dripping a drop or two of oil in it, working the blade around a bit, and all the dirt flows out the bottom.

Carl.
 
Carl,

The point I was getting at is having blade play that does not worsen is one thing but a knife that easily comes loose could be a sign of a problem worth sending it back to Case.

Kevin
 
I agree with Kevin. If the knife is being squeezed tight because it loosens during use and then comes loose again after hard use, well then it sounds like the pivot needs to be peened after its tightened to keep it that way. At least thats what my limited knowledge on the subject provides. I have never had one come loose on me but I have very limited use of CASE knives in general.
 
Thanks guys. I know blade play doesn't make a knife unusable, but it still drives me crazy. I'll probably end up getting a little pocket sizes fixed blade for this purpose, but it just seemed funny to me that a good quality knife would devolop play from whittling wood.
 
Mdsmith,

It seems funny to me also. That is why I gave the example of my little boker that holds up well. I have also put my 85 through its paces without the pin working loose in the bolsters. You are right a fixed blade would be the strongest, but that does not really speak of whether or not there is a problem with your knife.

Kevin
 
All my slip joints develop lateral play from this kind of work.

Pretty much all my lock backs develop vertical play.

My Opinels have zero play despite being used the roughest for cutting wood. Add to this they have a great profile for cutting wood. The number 10 has been modified.

Opinel #10 (drop point) & Opinel #8 by Pinnah, on Flickr

These are fiddly knives but they're best at wood of what I've used.
 
Have you ever considered that maybe you need to sharpen your knives a little more? A less than sharp blade requires you to use more force than necessary, which not only exerts more stress on the knife but is also more dangerous to the user.

I've whittled with a few of my slipjoints and I don't remember a single one developing play. Maybe it is the level of sharpness, maybe it's technique, but my gut tells me that a properly made slipjoint shouldn't develop any play from whittling.

That said, if you want to get a dedicated fixed blade for it, then by all means do so. I suggest getting a sloyd knife.

pinewoodforgesloydknife.jpg


pinewoodforgesloydknife.jpg


The handle makes the design significantly more comfortable to use for extended periods of time than folding knives. They are not as convenient and easy to carry as a slipjoint for do-it-anywhere type whittling, so don't get rid of your slips.

- Christian
 
Christian, good points. I think there a difference between whittling (soft wood) and processing tinder for camp fires. I find I end up stressing a knife more with the latter.
 
I make these up using old slip joint blades for whittling, no blade play.:D

Best regards

Robin

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