Trail Knife Recommendation

[gwb]

Need a recommendation for a knife to be used while doing trail maintenance. I currently carry a Gransfors Small Forest Axe (I love this tool), which obviously handles the big stuff and either a Benchmade 705 or 710 when I go into the woods.

The environment I work in is primary hardwood (oak, ash, poplar, etc.) and some pines. The under growth is saplings, vines, brambles, etc.

I would like to keep the knife length around 7 inches. I don’t want to carry something as large as a machete.

Would a Ranger Knives RD7 be too thick? If not, should I get a flat grind profile?

How about a Becker BK7?

 

[bigbcustom]

Either knife is a quality tool, and an excellent choice for use as a light machete (I think that is what you are planning on using it for based on your post). The RD7 is a little tougher than the BK-7, but you can get the BK-7 for 39.99 on line if you look hard enough whereas the RD-7 is 89.99 or 99.99 I can't remember which. I have a bk-7 and have played with the rd-7. Both will do your job, but for the price, the bk-7 is an incredible knife.

 

[Grampa]

A number of Swamp Rat knives are ideal for this - Camp Tramp, Battle Rat, Ratweiler. Only problem is that they are currently not taking any orders as they are re-doing their line. You can check the secondary market, or wait....like the rest of us. They are more expensive, but superb workers, with the best warrantee in the business (which you'll never need!).

Dollar for dollar, the Becker is a great deal. If I needed a working knife TODAY, I'd go there....but I'd keep an eye out for Swamp Rat's resuming production!

 

[hatchetjack]

I've used the RD7 and I believe they are all flat grind now. You will pay more but you can also have Justin modify your knife to better suit your needs for a very reasonable cost.

You may want to contact him personally at the Ranger Knives website. I also have the larger RD9 with a thinned edge and the increased length gives me a better balance when cutting through small branches plus the thinner edge makes cutting chores easy.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Would a Ranger Knives RD7 be too thick? If not, should I get a flat grind profile?

Most parangs are of similar thickness for wood working, request a full flat grind and a wood working edge profile, be specific about what you want to do with it.

-Cliff

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I've become a huge fan of the Leuku myself. light, versatile, and just plain easy to live with. Check out the selection at http://www.Ragweedforge.com Some really nice stuff. Especially the Roselli's, Ahti's, Jarvenpaa, and Stromeng. If you're into the more modern stuff, a BK 5 is awesome (if you can find one) and the greatest trail knife my smaller statured wife has had is a BK 10.


The one I've been using lately is a Helle Lapplander, which has been a real workhorse, inspite of it's stainless blade.

 

[Orion]

Get a Bark River Golok. It's a bit longer than 7" but it can be used as a nice machete or a decent heavy chopper.

Peace-
Cam

 

[DGG]

If it were me and I had to clear trails, I would scrap the knife idea. I would take a small bow saw and a twig cutting two handed lopper. Clearing a trail with a fixed blade would be not fun, IMHO. It seems like a great way for an accidental cut. Even with a machete it would not be fun.

http://www.orchardsedge.com/order1.jsp?code=T900&referer=/tools.jsp?type=bowsaws

http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=2&p=47450&cat=2,42706

For the bigger stuff a Husqvarna or Stihl 20" chainsaw.

For an easy fixed blade carry I get a Spyderco Moran model.

http://www.huntingblades.com/modrposk.html

Here is a good review of the Moran and the F1.

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/f1_vs_sbm.html

 

[OwenM]

I'd go with the BK7. It's much lighter than the RD7, and will offer a higher level of cutting ability and control. I assume you're wanting something for light work, like small branches or vines that are too small and/or numerous for using an axe on.
The RD7 would make a better heavy chopper, but it doesn't sound like that's what you want, plus it costs more, and if mine is any example, requires quite a bit of work on the handles and the edge just to get it into a usable state.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I would take a small bow saw and a twig cutting two handed lopper.

These would be safer but much slower, large blades like machetes and parangs are pretty much designed for such use. I'd get the RD7 as the CU/7 is too light for serious work on hardwoods. Just talk to Justin about what you are doing and get an appropiate edge geometry. The thickness of the spine isn't an issue on cutting ability of small woods, only the edge of the blade is "seen" by the wood.

-Cliff

 

[muzzleup]

If the trail that you will be on is going to require some rough work from your knife then I suggest you go look at the Trident line.

http://www.tridentknives.com/

I have the Oberland 01. And a TCFM 02 on order. The TCFM was tested by a German Messer magzine and it took #2800 to break the blade.
They make very tough blades.

FWIW
muzzleup
:thumbup:

 

[Piney]

I’m not bragging, but I probably have, at a minimum, 50 knives of all types. Most I made, but some I bought. I believe in the best tool for the job and for that I’d use a $10 Wal-Mart machete. I have one that I ground the edge down fairly thin with a belt sander and it’s junk steel, but works ideal for clearing and bush whacking. It’s very light and you can swing it all day without bending over and wearing your arm out.

 

[gwb]

Thanks for all of the advice.

I am not creating new trails with a hatchet and knife. For that, I use a chainsaw and a brush blade on my Echo trimmer. The hatchet and knife are used while walking and riding the trails.

I called Justin at Ranger Knives and told him my intended use late last week. He had the knife in stock and it got delivered this afternoon. I will need to dress up the edge a bit then I'm ready to put it to work. I like the heft of this knife. Fit and finish are very good.

Regards,

Gordon