traingle sharpmaker blunts blade tip

BoySetsTheFire · May 20, 2004

I have been working with a new sharpmaker for the first time. I intend to use it for touchup, although I did buy the diamond rods as well. But I find that I lose the sharp tip of the blade. As I finish the stroke, because hand pressure is in towards the rod, the blade tip sweeps in the direction of pressure and becomes blunted. The sharp tip is gone. Any tips on method here?

piedrarc · May 20, 2004

Don't let the stroke follow all the way through. Stop just right before the tip. Sharpen the tip seperate.

Larry S. · May 20, 2004

Did you receive the instructional video with your Sharpmaker??

Larry S.

BoySetsTheFire · May 20, 2004

There was something about a slight turn at the tip, but I did not understand what he meant, nor could I really follow it. Is that what you are referring to? Would you explain in more detail;.

Jeff/1911 · May 21, 2004

I have always had this problem with the Sharpmaker. I find it very hard to stop just before the

tip.

Jeff/1911.

KBR · May 21, 2004

A word of advice when sharpening the tip;

Only use the flats on the tip, NOT the corners, and don't let it slip off the rod.

As piedrarc mentioned, when you're sharpening on the corners don't follow it all the way through....stop at about the last half-inch/inch or so and finish the tip off on the flats.

Good Luck

cds1 · May 21, 2004

I'm sorry that happened to you. I just ruined the tip of my 710HS using my Sharpmaker for the first time. (It was my first knife sharpening experience. I read through the booklet, but did not watch the video because I only have a DVD player.)

Regards,
cds1

Muppet · May 21, 2004

Here's a post of mine about fixing the sharpmaker:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295783

I got an email from Sal saying that this wouldn't work because at that angle the points of the rods couldn't reach the indentations of a spyderedge but it might be fine for PE blades.

Muppet · May 21, 2004

Oh, and I now favor spear-points because, if it happens, you can just file a little off the top side of the blade, which restores the point without having to move much metal. I don't screw up all that often, but being able to fix it quickly matters to me.

BoySetsTheFire · May 21, 2004

I do not believe the blunting is caused by hitting the flat of the rod. I never hit the flat. The blunting is caused by the corner itself. Once the blade sweeps past, the tip itself comes in contact with the corner and is blunted. The solution has been provided by Chris Reeve of Chris Reeve knives. He states that you only should use the flat when sharpening the tip and do not draw the blade completely past the rod. Stop when the tip has travelled past half the flat and then lift up. Another poster has confirmed this method. And when it comes to knifemaking and sharpening, Chris Reeve is the man. I have tried this method on my Sebenza and it works.

JohnnyO · May 22, 2004

BoySetsTheFire said:
I do not believe the blunting is caused by hitting the flat of the rod. I never hit the flat. The blunting is caused by the corner itself. Once the blade sweeps past, the tip itself comes in contact with the corner and is blunted. The solution has been provided by Chris Reeve of Chris Reeve knives. He states that you only should use the flat when sharpening the tip and do not draw the blade completely past the rod. Stop when the tip has travelled past half the flat and then lift up. Another poster has confirmed this method. And when it comes to knifemaking and sharpening, Chris Reeve is the man. I have tried this method on my Sebenza and it works.

I use this method as well and never have a problem with dulling the points on my knives.