Transluscent honey buffalo horn

dhannon

dhannon

Joined
May 9, 2000
Messages
143
Finally found a piece of honey colored buffalo horn. Never thought what I'd do with it before, just thought it would look pretty cool. Now I've a great blade to put it on and realize that the horn is transluscent enough to show the blade metal. Anyone have any tips on how not to show what you don't want showing? Seems I've a hanging hole in the handle that may show through.

Is darker epoxy the trick? Or, will this just darken the beauty of the horn?

Thanks for the help,

Dan
 
Fill in any holes in the tang that might show (epoxy, whatever) and sand flat, then apply some genuine 23 or 23.5 carat gold leaf over some sizer or similar material. You can get it in 25 sheet "books", or on your case, with sizer you could use transfer gold leaf. That should make the horn look like it's back-lit.

The old Sheffield cutlers would sometimes use this with genuine tortoise shell to really bring it out.

-- Dwight
 
Originally posted by zerogee
Fill in any holes in the tang that might show (epoxy, whatever) and sand flat, then apply some genuine 23 or 23.5 carat gold leaf over some sizer or similar material. You can get it in 25 sheet "books", or on your case, with sizer you could use transfer gold leaf. That should make the horn look like it's back-lit.

-- Dwight
Click to expand...


That's what I'd do. There is also some 'gold leaf' that is not real gold, and is a bit less expensive than the real stuff. has a slightly different shade, but through the horn, who cares.:D
 
If you want to try leaf that's not really gold, be sure to pick something that won't tarnish or discolor over time with exposure to air, pollutants, water, sweat, and so on. Some of the fake leaf will allow you to "varnish" over it for protection, though that will lessen its brightness.

Otherwise the discoloration will gradually creap in from the edges of the handle -- thru the horn it will look like it's got some sort of progressive rot going on under it.

Gluing down the horn is not really recommended - if you have to move it around to position it, the leaf will likely tear; and even if you can avoid that, you'll lose a lot of the nice bright quality of the leaf.

-- Dwight
 
I've gotta ask. Please forgive the nature...

Are you guys kidding??:D :D

I believe this would be absolutely wonderful. But... Really hit me by surprise. Never heard of doing this.

But, now you've got me teased and interested. I assume you're serious. Where can I get may hands on some of this gold leaf? Haven't seen, but haven't been looking. Very willing to try this one.

So how do I adhere the leaf if without epoxy?

Thanks,

Dan
 
Originally posted by dhannon
So how do I adhere the leaf if without epoxy?

Thanks,

Dan
Click to expand...


Personally, I would use epoxy. just make sure to have all your holes drilled before hand, affix the leaf to the tang first, and punch the pinholes through it, so you don't have the handle slabs moving around trying to do this after.
Epoxy the scales too. Just be real careful when assembling.
A knifemaker friend of mine does this quite often, and he has always used epoxy. No problems at all.

The leaf can be purchased from furniture refinishing stores etc.
Probably some knifemakers supply stores handle it also.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/home.exe :confused:
 
The thinness of gold leaf boggles the mind (just a few millionths of an inch thick). You can actually see thru it. Folded against itself, it will often stick. Don't think of it like just a thin foil - it behaves quite differently.

The "size" I mentioned is used as the starting base (there are various formulations) -- essentially an extremely thin, very slow drying adhesive that has just enough tack to grab the leaf, but won't move around. Gilders usually use several layers of leaf and burnish the layers together (both adding to and deepening the shine and essentially cold welding the layers together). Just FYI.

One thing that works is to just lick-it-and-stick-it. Seriously - lick the item, stick the leaf. Lick the tang and slap the leaf right on it, set your pins in place, then lick the inside of the scale, apply the leaf there, and (carefully) assemble. Use a little epoxy on the pins before peening and you're golden. Mind you, I would recommend making sure you've gotten all the burrs off the tang first. :eek:

-- Dwight
 
Dan If you would like to try it let me know I will send you a few sheets. Just email me. Cool Stuff!

They say one once of pure gold can be hammered out into a 10 foot by 10 foot sheet. Amazing.
 
Excellent suggestions guys. I'm quite surprised at the use of gold, but am quite excited to try it now. This will be quite a cool piece when done. Hopefully it won't take too long and I can post a photo soon.

Thanks for the help.

Dan
 
My Dad made gold leaf.
He was the foreman of the shop, I went there when I was real small and remember all those power hammers being LOUD.
I think the floors were painted black to spot waste.
Pop made his own tool for handling the leaf. It was wooden, and resembled chop stix with a block on one end keeping the (thin, flat middle, half round outside) sticks about 1/2" apart.
These were all over the house when I was a kid.

Thanx for stirring up happy memories & I bet that handle is going to come out great!
 
I wanna see that one when it's done, Dan. Sounds like it will be a winner. Thanks also for starting this thread...I'm getting ideas again.:eek:
 
J did you see Franks Folder at the hammer-in?
it had gold leaf under the shell very very cool
and extra nice :D
 
I put Gold Leaf under the scales on Ebbtides last knife from me,He can tell us how it holds up being epoxied on the knife.

In the books I have about the old Sheffield makers they absolutely did just lick the scales and stick on the Gold Leafing behind both horn and tortouise..I also have some honey colored horn waiting for the gold leafing and to be attached to a knife some day.

I picked up mine (fake gold leafing I guess) at the Hobby Store,they also have adhesives and stuff to coat it with if needed.
Bruce
 
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