All good points,
If in the woods/mountains and cold the full rubber (whatever material it actually is) of the falkniven a1 has an upper hand slightly. Very much so in ungloved situations. Both awesome blades, I would prefer (without personal experience) the trc apocalypse, with that said I did a full 7 & half months in the back country living out of my backpack and carried the standard a1 and it was a phenominal knife. The extra girth behind the blade makes is less ideal for slicing applications such as apples (slices crack off, not an actual big deal) but cardboard, and in a more survivally situation thick leather it becomes more relevant. Now a thicker blade can slice through all of these but its incredibly more work than with a thin blade, aka for survival relatedness, more calories and time. The wider blade of the trc leads me to believe it may be a more gradual grind angle and may make it slice easier. I know the fallkniven a1 and especially the pro are thicc blades, they're fat. I also used and carried my A1 in alaska, skinning and processing caribou and any other task I asked of that knife. There's a very old video of a guy who used to do edge retention and destruction tests on knives and the A1 was the only one to compare in durability to the busse infi line. It was insane how much stronger the a1 lasted compared to the rest of the field back then for the price. And it was my main survival knife for years.
My personal pick and what I consider currently to be the best all around survival knife made is the carothers (cpk) heavy duty field knife, HDFK. But they are incredibly pricey on the secondary market and have to hunt to find even one at high price.
Can go into detail on knife features that I blieve make it the best in the world production survival knife currently. But as they said above skill, knowledge and familiarity with the knife matter head and shoulders above rest.
1. Carothers hdfk
2. Trc/custom/other (like gso5.1 or 6)
3. Fallkniven pro A1
That's my order and 2 cents for what its worth. There are some other good ones not mentioned that are worth considering as well. And yes, I put the cpk above a custom. The reason being metullurgy, & attention/detail to grind angles. For a true survival knife I put strength above edge retention and rust proof, period, knife functions best when not broken, sharpening can be done and you can still cut, dig, stab & and pry with a dull knife. so I choose 3v over magnacut and other steels like the elmax, I would take infi too but none of the infi models compare to the carothers grinds in my opinion. There are other good cpm 3v blades like the secondary market survive knives which are supposed to be phenominal as well (I've only owned the gso 4.1's) But back to metullurgy, larrin thomas the knife steel metal God (correct me if I'm off on this please) and nathan corother the mad scientiest knife guy and perfectionist and the temper king from peters heat treat (who survive knives used and who a lot of custom makers use because his tempers are known and solid) came together to create the delta protocol for 3v. And it is good. Really good. Now choosing I go off my personal experience and highest number of user experiences. And watchable readable tests, which larrin does, nathan does and that guy everybody hates who used to own S!k used to do. both survive and cpk have plenty of videos you can watch to see with your own eyes and be enrolled with 3v along with a million youtube warrior reviews , along with extensive testing shown from the company owners to prove quality. In my personal experience carrying the survive knives 3v with peters heat treat and the cpk up in washington state, I have found the peters heat treat keeps its edge a tiny bit better, but this is anecdotal and more experiential than proven but what I seem to have noticed. But what is not anecdotal and I have definitely seen is that nathans delta protocol temper makes 3v essentially stainless (apparently affecting edge quality in moist environments). I have left my gso blades in the same pack as my cpks and come back to find the normal 3v with minor rusting and spots, the d3v I have never gotten to rust, nathans d3v is like the original magnacut, it functions as a true stainless and I don't think he emphasizes that feature enough. He also was still using his propriatary S grind back when the hdfk's were being made. Beautiful knife, can talk a whole lot on specific feature set and uses of the knife specifically if you want to message. Put a morror polish on your cpk blade and I would pay (and plan to do myself some day) to see a rust test on d3v. Also for a survival knife consider putting a mirror polish on it. You can use that as a mirror to flash down/signal planes by using your two fingers as a site, you can view around corners if dangerous persons or whatever is around corners in say urban settings say in fire arms usage situations. And for discretion you can watch airsoft sniper videos on how insanely affective mirrors can function as camouflage. Mirror polish also comes useful in survival mindedness in self care situations, say having to stitch a cut on the back of your leg you cant see without a mirror....or your mirror polished knife. Wow, ok apparently I had (and still have) more to say on survival knife topics but I'll cut it at that. Again take my imput or not its just my .2 cents.
..........TRC ain't cheap neither!!
. I still am happy to splash more money on good knives though. I just looked into Carothers and they seem to make decent knives. I might get one
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