Triangle Sharpmaker Questions

S

sing

Joined
Jan 31, 1999
Messages
1,613

Been through different sharpeners/hones to find out what works best for me... (yeah, I know... just develop the skill...) My sharpmaker is the favorite and sees the most usage.

Is there any metal the white ceramics would not work well with? Also, I tried to change the edge angle on my Sentinel. I think I was very successful in destroying any semblemance of an even angle on the edge after many (obvously inconsistent angled) passes. Should I have just taken several passes on a rough diamond hone and then used the white ceramics just for that fine edge?

Thanks,

sing
 
sing,

I think you want to head to knifeforums.com, go into the Knife Design Function & Test Forum, and find my old article "How to make the Sharpmaker Perform".

Here's the reader's digest version, though. As you've found out, the Sharpmaker has two disadvantages -- which are really only disadvantages the first time you set the edge. First, the relatively thin stones don't remove metal as fast as a big hone. Second, you have a choice of only one angle, so the first time you sharpen it can take a while. As you've found out, once you start getting frustrated with how much time you're taking, you can get sloppy.

What I recommend is that you buy a coarse or even x-coarse (be careful with that one!) DMT 6"x2" diamond hone. The first time I re-profile the edge, I lay the diamond hone carefully against the Spyderco stone, so that it's at exactly the same angle as the stones. Now, for the reprofiling, I'm essentially grinding against a big, very aggressive diamond hone which is set as the Sharpmaker's angle. This makes the initial reprofiling VERY fast!

Remember of course to follow the general rules: grind one side only until you have a burr along the entire length of the edge along the other side. Then repeat on the other side. Only then can you start changing sides from stroke to stroke. One quick note about this procedure: if you're grinding one side for a really long time and there's no burr but you've noticed you've removed a lot of metal, go ahead and switch to the other side and repeat. This will keep the bevels relatively even on each side. At some point or other, one side will start to burr over, and at that point stick to that side until the entire length has a burr.

Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
 
Joe,

Much obliged. I went to KFC, couldn't quite find it (wrong search words) and came back here. I found your articles on the opening page here. Will print these out for leisurely reading....
smile.gif


sing
 
I'm pretty sure that particular article on the Sharpmaker isn't on Bladeforums. You might have to just change the settings to "show all postings from last year" and scan for my name. Could be in the Knife Reviews forum also, I guess, I can't remember exactly where I put it. In any case, you've gotten the highlight -- buy an aggressive diamond hone and lean it up against the sticks.

Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
 
Thanks Mike! I bubbled it up to the top, so it'll be one of the top messages in the knifeforums.com Knife Reviews Forum. I talk a little about about my combo-grit edge in there, too.

Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
 
Maybe the reason you're not seeing the progress you expect is because ATS-34 is pretty doggone hard. You may not have worked it long enough. I've also noticed that sometimes one rod will take off a little more material than the other, especially if they're not clean. At the store I usually sharpen a serrated edge on the ground side only, so we probably have one stone a little more worn than the other. Keep trying and pay close attention. If your concentration is wandering, come back to it later. One of our former employees cost us a 50/50 Delica because he wasn't paying enough attention on the grinder. OOPS!

------------------
 
Joe,
One thing I have noticed is that when I start to get the edge to the correct angle on the sharpmaker the sound of the blade on the stone starts to change. I becomes smoother sounding. It has a flowing even sound. Have you noticed this? Also, when I first started sharpining with the spyderco sharpmaker I would alternate side to side, as per instructions. Then I decided to go 5 strokes per side, and had better luck. Now I know from reading your article to raise a burr. However, if the blade just needs a little touch up, I'll stroke side to side. Thanks a million for all your advise. It's people like yourself who allow free flow of info that make hobbies much more enjoyable. Thanks again, Mike
 
Joe - thanx for all the help. Should have a diamond for you (for the Sharpmaker) by year end. save you some steps. I too re-bevel with coarse or medium diamonds.

Haji - more often than not, the reason that it takes a long time to sharpen some knives is not so much because of hardness of the metal but the original angle of the edge. If the inclusive angle is wider than the sharpmaker preset angle, then you are essentiall re-bevelling the knife with the ceramic stones.

We have found that the edge of the gray stone, especially after it has worn some, will cut almost as fast as a diamond. might give it a try. Rub the edge of two gray stones together until you "break" through the surface, exposing the more friable material beneath the surface. Then use them again.

Mike F - very observant noticing the sound change. You must have used the Sharpmaker a great deal.

Sal
 
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