triangle sharpmaker questions

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mosquitojoyride

Joined
Jun 20, 2005
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the rods that come with the sharpmaker, are they good enough to sharpen d2, s30v, or zdp189? how is it for 154cm? and i'm worried about sharpening the bm 710 on it, will the sharpmaker be good enoughf or it?
 
I've sharpened knives in all the steels except the ZDP189 and its always did a good job.
the secret is not to let the edge get to dull or it'll take a lot longer.
my calypso with ZDP189 hasn't needed to be sharpened yet.
 
The regular Sharpmaker rods will work on all the steels you listed. I know from personal experience they work very well on the BM 710.

But some steels, being harder, take longer to do than others, and the diamond rods were made for speeding up the work on them. Still, if you get your knives sharp, and you keep them reasonably sharp rather than waiting till they are terminally dull before resharpening, the Sharpmaker will work well on even the most obdurate blades.
 
are the knives that come out of the box from bm considered dull? i've had two knives from spyderco and they are freakin sharp. the bms can barely cut a looseleaf at an angle. the reason i ask is becaues if it's not dull, i don't want to sharpen so much that it will destroy the blade? i'm not expereicned with sharpening at all, i doubt the blade will change, but it's just better to find out now. sorry for the question, thanks for the answers
 
Benchmade seems to ship its blades with a more obtuse angle than many other manufacturers. This is not really dull so much as durable. A very fine sharp edge will not last as long.

But with good steel and heat treatment, that razor sharp Spyderco can be returned to its original state pretty easily.

The Sharpmaker, used as instructed, will not damage your blades. And it is easy to use! :)
 
mosquitojoyride said:
the rods that come with the sharpmaker, are they good enough to sharpen d2, s30v, or zdp189? how is it for 154cm? and i'm worried about sharpening the bm 710 on it, will the sharpmaker be good enoughf or it?
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It will work. Just ignore the instructions that say you must make a certain number of passes on each rod. Different knives sharpen differently. On one twenty passes might be very sharp but on another it might take two hundred.

If the knife is pretty dull start with the medium (the courser rod) until it is very sharp, then switch to the fine. I was a big dummy when I started and switched to the fine too soon and did more work than I needed to.
 
Is it not possible to make a coarser rod out of whatever material they use for their medium? Why the need to jump to the very expensive Diamond Rod?
 
mosquitojoyride said:
i don't want to sharpen so much that it will destroy the blade?
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This isn't possible without power equipment usually, or intentional over grinding, you could never do it with the Sharpmaker as it removes material really slowly. All you have to do is stop periodically while sharpening the knife can check for progress.

Reprofiling a Benchmade to suit the Sharpmaker angles will be an exercise in frustration. The small Sebenza I bought recently had the initial edge a little over 20 degrees, it took 1050 passes on the medium rods to cut one side of the edge down to 20. I did the other side in 150 passes with an x-coarse stone.

Get a benchstone for angle adjustments and relief grinds.

-Cliff
 
tim8557 said:
Is it not possible to make a coarser rod out of whatever material they use for their medium? Why the need to jump to the very expensive Diamond Rod?
Click to expand...

You are 100% correct. By courser I was referring to the dark colored rod not the white one. That dark one is the courser of the two but is still a "medium" in Spyderco terminology.

What a sharp eye you have!!!
 
DGG said:
You are 100% correct. By courser I was referring to the dark colored rod not the white one. That dark one is the courser of the two but is still a "medium" in Spyderco terminology.

What a sharp eye you have!!!
Click to expand...

Actually, I think I have a rather dull eye. I really was just wondering why Spyderco does not offer a Coarse(r) triangle rod; say a 100 grit made from the same material(s) that the brown and white rods are made of.

I think that this is a drawback to the Sharpamker because I generally use the coarsest stone on my Edge Pro to reprolfile a blade to my liking. Really can't be done with a Sharpmaker unless you have hours and hours to kill (I don't).
 
Again you are 100% correct. If I give you a buck will you buy me a superball lottery ticket?

I have a couple of DMT 2" x 6" diamond hones/stones in course,medium for serious metal removal.

Seems like a course rod would be a natural. I'm waiting to hear how the Spyderco wizards respond to this suggestion. Usually they have a reason for everything!!!
 
DGG said:
If I give you a buck will you buy me a superball lottery ticket?
Click to expand...

No....but I'll be glad to send you a whole bunch of loser tickets I have (maybe a dozen ineffectual putters as well) free of charge.

I think the scientists in this bunch probably have an answer about the Spyderco Rods. Probably has something to do with the limitations on how course you can make one of these.

Meantime, I'll go back to studying those 1 through 44 numbers and see if I can pick more than 1 out of 6.

Cheers
 
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