Tried to reprofile a bevel too acute

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Jan 19, 2010
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Well, last night I decided I didn't do a great job on my case trapper's bevel, so I decided to use the benchstone to reset it. I've had troubles using my DMT aligner clamp with this knife beacuse the hollow grind, so I decided to free-hand and use the penny method to set the angle. I was lazy and didn't do the math and decided two penny's would be too obtuse, and started grinding away.

Now my edge faces are extremely wide, and after doing the math (asin(.058/.558) * 180 /pi * 2 ) I find out I'm grinding in a 12 degree included angle :eek:

Not really sure if I should just finish it out and have an incredibly acute angle on steel that probably can't hold it ( Case's CV) or if I should add another penny to microbevel it, which would still only be at ~23 (asin(.116/.558) * 180 / pi * 2) degrees included. I still worry if Case's CV can even hold 23 degrees.

Either way I feel like it'd be a lot of work to finish it up the way it is now, and would be so acute I couldn't really do anything but shave with it. I'd be more comfortable at ~23, but does a microbevel of about double the secondary bevel's angle perform the same?

I've very close to having the edges completely beveled, but still very far away. The edge faces are .100" wide and I've got less than .030" of the old edge face still showing, but I don't feel like I'm making any progress at all grinding on these huge edge faces.

So long story short: Should I stick it out and complete the edge at 12 degrees and see how it works, or just microbevel it now to save myself some time ( now and later )? I have a pretty good idea that 12 degrees included is to acute for Case's CV for the tasks I'm going to be using it for ( other than shaving ) so I think it'd behoove me to microbevel it now, but I'm just not sure.
 
I would change the angle sooner rather than later. Because if you rebevel an edge to an acute angle and then decide to increase the angle, simply putting a microbevel on it will not strengthen it very much. You would need to grind away enough steel to thicken the edge. You'd be shortening the life of the blade.
 
I would change the angle sooner rather than later. Because if you rebevel an edge to an acute angle and then decide to increase the angle, simply putting a microbevel on it will not strengthen it very much. You would need to grind away enough steel to thicken the edge. You'd be shortening the life of the blade.

Yeah, this is what I was mostly thinking, but if I raise the angle won't the edge stay thin until the edge faces at the new angle are considerably large? Like, if I just grinded in a bevel that was at 23, and the edge faces are .050" (so half of the edge face now ) will that thicken the edge out enough? It will look pretty weird, but will it also cut okay still?

Maybe I could convex it after that to take out the angle in the middle of the edge face, but would it make a difference for edge thickness unless I completely grind out the current edge face's?
 
You don't need to completely grind away the existing edge face. Like you said, if you don't like the way it looks with two bevels, then run it over sandpaper on a soft backing and it will blend together.
I sharpen freehand so my bevels are never exact. When I'm making the final strokes with a fine stone I try to be as steady as possible. That's when it counts. I don't worry too much about the aesthetics either. My blades tend to get scratched up during sharpening.
 
Keep it low and add a 15+ degree micro at the end with your finest stone.
 
Keep it low and add a 15+ degree micro at the end with your finest stone.

I did this since it was the first step to everything else, but I stopped when the edge faces of the new angle were .010".

Should I thicken them out at all? I never did quite know what the proper width was.

Anyway, seems pretty sharp now, so I'm happy with it, I just wonder what's going to happen to it when I strop it.
 
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