trouble forge welding a spearhead socket

David Stifle

David Stifle

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
10,188
I don't know if its the difference in the two metals, or my technique, but I am unable to get a seamless weld joining the socket to the spearhead. The socket is very securely attached, both by weld and pins as you can see, I just don't like the appearance. Should I heat it up and go again, until the metals are truly seamless, or is it a rather lost cause? Any advice would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0234 (3).jpg
    DSCN0234 (3).jpg
    23.8 KB · Views: 64
  • DSCN0235 (2).jpg
    DSCN0235 (2).jpg
    15.6 KB · Views: 60
I don't really have any help for ya, but it might help if we knew the types of steel. Sometimes odd welds like that are hard cause one piece wants to be hotter or cool faster then the other piece. The anvil can suck the heat out of a thin piece almost instantly. I have never tried a spear socket, and wouldn't offer advice, but since no one else is thought id chime in.

If I where to try to reweld that, I'd heat it and flux it a couple times to clean out anything that mint be hidden, then make sure both pieces are the same temp(color) and don't let it touch the anvil until the hammer pushes it onto it.

Like I said, I haven't tried that, and others would probably know better then me. Just brainstorming with ya. Good luck
 
Thanks, Cody. Not sure what steel the pipe is, but the spearhead is W2. Since I'm not happy with it, I'll probably do it until it turns out like I want or I ruin it. Even if I do ruin it, naturally the spearhead will be fine and I can start over again.
 
I've always known forge welds at a joint to have an identifiable seam... I know some smiths use the scarf method to minimize the appearance of joints, but now that the weld is there all you can do is work the seam, which would be a PITA, and then hand sand it, all-the-while not making it look worse...

Honestly David, I actually look for this very seam when I pick up any "hand forged" item... I wouldn't consider a defect as is, and would pass on it if I didn't see it/feel it... It brings a certain legitimacy to the piece... that might just be me though?

also, what are you using as flux?
 
SinePari said:
I've always known forge welds at a joint to have an identifiable seam... I know some smiths use the scarf method to minimize the appearance of joints, but now that the weld is there all you can do is work the seam, which would be a PITA, and then hand sand it, all-the-while not making it look worse...

Honestly David, I actually look for this very seam when I pick up any "hand forged" item... I wouldn't consider a defect as is, and would pass on it if I didn't see it/feel it... It brings a certain legitimacy to the piece... that might just be me though?

also, what are you using as flux?
Click to expand...

all good points. I am using good old borax as a flux. using lighter fluid to make it stick. Maybe I'll just clean it up, put a little solder on the joint and work it until it looks a bit better. Thanks for the reply, buddy. This is what I'm trying to achieve. As you can see, there are no visible weld lines.
 
Last edited:
David, how do you think brazing it with Nickel Silver rod would look? I have been thinking of doing a few guards this way, brazing the stack of pieces together.
 
Willie71 said:
David, how do you think brazing it with Nickel Silver rod would look? I have been thinking of doing a few guards this way, brazing the stack of pieces together.
Click to expand...

I'm not great at brazing, Willie, but I think NS would stand out too much. I need to get away from the pipe socket method in order to achieve the results I want, even if I have a open sliver running down the socket.
 
Another pretty invisible method is to use A/O and a mild steel filler rod. It is surprisingly easy to get the hang of gas welding on carbon steel (I often use coat hangers)..........of course, a MIG welder with carbon steel wire will also work.....even flux core will do.

Over weld and grind clean.
 
Just a thought, but the forge weld seems may be on the opposite side from what is facing the camera in those pictures.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top