Trouble sharpening endura

S

stillshot2

Joined
Jun 6, 2014
Messages
570
I'd like to think I know how to keep my blades sharp, but my partial serrated ffg endura in vg10 has me scratching my head. The serrations came razor sharp, but for the life of me I can't bring the plain edge to that level of sharpness. Used Spyderco fine rods, ceramic rod, even tried a little more coarse of a stone to see if it liked a more toothy edge like 8cr13mov but still no so I went back to Spyderco fine rod and brought it back to factory. Any ideas? I have no issues keeping my s45vn para 2 and spy 27 native scary sharp, and have been able to bring a completely dull 154cm blade back to paper towel slicing sharp. I can only think maybe the angle of the serrations is more acute than the plain area, but not sure I want to mess with the angle unless I have to?
 
Hi Stillshot,

I would recommend a magnifying loupe, 10X - 12X. This will permit you to actually see what is going on with the edge. You might be working on the shoulder and have not yet reached the edge?

sal
 
Are you marking the edges with black Magic Marker so that you can see where you are sharpening? I found it helps a lot,
 
I'm pretty sure the plain and serrated sections are ground and sharpened seperately, so it is entirely possible they have different edge bevel angles. Wbich slots are you using on your SharpMaker?
 
Tried the black marker, seemed to help a little to show me any sharpening deficiencies with my technique but still no where as near as good as my Golden, CO models. Tried the 30 degree angle but it kinda seems like it's in between 30 and 40 so went to free hand on a different brand fine water stone followed by a generic branded ceramic rod with not much improvement. With this same technique I have made dozens of knives including kitchen knives sharper than this endura. Maybe I'm struggling because the blade stock is so thin and requires more skill than I can muster?
 
If the bevel is between 30° and 40°, you should be able to sharpen it with the rods in the 40° slots. "Thin blade stock" and "Endura" don't belong in the same sentence, by the way. Without seeing your technique I can't begin to tell you what you might be doing wrong, but using too much pressure is at the top of my list of "the usual suspects". Be aware that VG-10 is usually run pretty hard as well, so it can take a bit of time, especially on ceramics.
 
yablanowitz said:
VG-10 is usually run pretty hard
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Perhaps this is it, it does "feel" harder than other knives. I'll keep trying, I definitely haven't applied too much pressure, was actually about to try more pressure to see if that gets moving along more quickly but I'll keep being patient with it
 
Sal Glesser said:
Guess you blew off the magnifying loupe? Keep guessing.

sal
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I don't have a 10x power loupe yet so I can't comment on that, but from what I can see with an old magnifying glass I have of unknown power the edge appears not different than my other blades, I see no burrs, and am sharpening to the edge.
 
Hi Stillshot,

When I was training salesmen (demonstrators) on sharpening, I told them that I was number 2 teacher, but Loupe was number 1 teacher. I believe it will make a difference in your understanding of the edge. They are now inexpensive and good quality.

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
When I was training salesmen (demonstrators) on sharpening, I told them that I was number 2 teacher, but Loupe was number 1 teacher. I believe it will make a difference in your understanding of the edge. They are now inexpensive and good quality.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks, I have a 10x loupe on the way in the mail
 
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