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Troubles with Manix 2 G-10

H

HorseloverFat

Joined
Apr 11, 2014
Messages
451
I attempted to slightly turn the pivot screw today with a T-8 per Spyderco : The first pivot that I tried turned relatively easy, but I was not able to turn the pivot on the pocket clip side and ultimately it stripped. :(

I'm not sure what else to try with regard to the extra stiff lock on this Manix 2 other than sending it in to Spyderco...

Any thoughts ?
 
I don't think the pivot would have all that much to do with the lock being able to be disengaged.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/722550-Manix-2-Breakdown

If you chewed up the pivot screw, contact Spyderco and send your knife in. Can't do much more than that. For future reference, you should always assume that a knife has Loctite on it, and you need proper fitting tools (Preferably Wiha brand of comparable), they pay for themselves over time. Add up the cost of shipping the knives back and forth. You also need to break the seal, by heating up the screw, a hair dryer or soldering iron works.

As you can see in the thread I linked, the screws should be tightened all the way, this will still allow the blade to swing freely and smoothly. Loosening the screws in theory will introduce blade play and misalignment of the blade in the handle. Some of the bushing pivots are not perfectly machined so I would guess a bit of loosening would be in order, but I still find it hard to imagine how that would affect the cage itself.
 
Yeah...the stiffness of the spring that holds the ball bearing cage has nothing at all to do with the pivot...the pivot would only affect how freely the blade moves. And the BBL on most Manix knives is very stiff...every one I've ever tried "Could" be operated by one hand but was so stiff it hurt to do so and as such the thumb-forefinger combo seems to be the norm. It's definitely no axis lock, but I personally prefer it this way because I know it won't accidentally disengage no matter what my hands do while holding the handle, gloved or not.
 
My Manix2 LW had a break in period.I never adjusted anything and now it's among the smoothest folders I own.
 
The BBL will loosen up after awhile, but as others have said, the pivot has no effect on it.
 
RevDevil said:
I don't think the pivot would have all that much to do with the lock being able to be disengaged.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/722550-Manix-2-Breakdown

If you chewed up the pivot screw, contact Spyderco and send your knife in. Can't do much more than that. For future reference, you should always assume that a knife has Loctite on it, and you need proper fitting tools (Preferably Wiha brand of comparable), they pay for themselves over time. Add up the cost of shipping the knives back and forth. You also need to break the seal, by heating up the screw, a hair dryer or soldering iron works.

As you can see in the thread I linked, the screws should be tightened all the way, this will still allow the blade to swing freely and smoothly. Loosening the screws in theory will introduce blade play and misalignment of the blade in the handle. Some of the bushing pivots are not perfectly machined so I would guess a bit of loosening would be in order, but I still find it hard to imagine how that would affect the cage itself.
Click to expand...

I forgot about the presence of Loctite - duh! :o And I was not impressed with the Husky set...

I did test how it would operate by tightening it all the way, but I could not even open the knife. This knife has been a headache from the get-go. I should stop whining about it and send it in. I'm much more pleased with the Manix 2 XL.

Thanks for always helping out, RevDevil. Very kind of you, sir.
 
SpydrMan said:
The BBL will loosen up after awhile, but as others have said, the pivot has no effect on it.
Click to expand...

Perhaps in theory it should loosen up, but THIS Manix 2 G-10 never did. However, the Manix 2 XL that I acquired about a month ago has broken in quite nicely.
 
3rdGenRigger said:
Yeah...the stiffness of the spring that holds the ball bearing cage has nothing at all to do with the pivot...the pivot would only affect how freely the blade moves. And the BBL on most Manix knives is very stiff...every one I've ever tried "Could" be operated by one hand but was so stiff it hurt to do so and as such the thumb-forefinger combo seems to be the norm. It's definitely no axis lock, but I personally prefer it this way because I know it won't accidentally disengage no matter what my hands do while holding the handle, gloved or not.
Click to expand...

Good point with regard to the stiffness of the knife. Thanks.
 
ooh .. this is something i would need to take note of as i have intention to swap out the G10 scales to some other pattern.
 
Update : a replacement Manix 2 is inbound from Amazon. Hopefully, there is nothing wrong with the " new " one. Thanks to everyone for the advice ...
 
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