Tru-Oil: Instructions Printed on Label

redsquid2

redsquid2

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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I have recently experienced a Tru-Oil fail.

I was applying it to hard maple. I followed the instructions for the first two coats; no problems.

Then I waited about 2 1/2 hours. The bottle says "wait at least two hours." I thought it would be ready for the third coat. I started buffing with #00 steel wool, as instructed, and the result was streaks of dark goop--a combination of uncured Tru Oil and bits of steel wool.

Then I waited another 10 hours, and rubbed off the dark goop, leaving what appears to be a nice, hard satin finish.

Two hours just isn't long enough. They need to change the instructions regarding three or more coats.

Has this been you all's experience too? How long do you wait after that second coat?

Thanks,

squiddy
 
Last edited:
They lie.

I apply and put in light heat box and let is sit until hard, usually over night. Apply another coat in the morning and let it sit in box until dusk and apply another coat and let sit for 24 hours. When hard I sand out any imperfections and knock down the high spots :) apply another coat and let sit over night again. When hard I then can wet sand and buff usually by hand. Heat from a buffer if not careful will make it soft again. Steel wool can be use but it can make a real mess if there is still a soft spot and then you have to deal with that.

Those instructions on the bottle have caused users problems for years.
 
One thing many gun stock makers say is to not use the steel wool. Fine steel wool shavings can become trapped in the finish and rust overtime leaving ugly marks. Use synthetic steel wool or fine scotchbrite pads.

My methods are about on par with AVigil. Also, it's good to know that this finish will harden further over time.
 
Yes ,no steel wool as they advised at gunsmithing school . Remember that True Oil is linseed oil which oxidizes and polymerizes .We applied generously ,come back in an hour ,and scrub off all excess with burlap.Come back next day and repeat .Do this for three coats .You end up with three thin coats . Yes it continues to age and harden in the process.
 
Most folks put on oil finish as if it was latex paint. You only apply a small amount, rub it in, wipe the excess off, and let it cure before buffing. too much left on the surface will result in a goopy mess......as you have discovered.
 
Thanks for all of the tips. This is my first time using this stuff.
 
Yep Tru-Oil needs atleast 10-12 hours at room temp to harden enough to sand. A better way to go about it is to realize that Tru-Oil is only about 10% oil. It is actually a varnish, and treat it as such. I posted a method a while back on using ArmorAll as a catalyst with Tru-Oil, to speed things up. 20 coats in a day is easy with this method. I would link to the thread, but I'm on my phone and can't do it easily. Just be sure to use a tack cloth after cutting the surface down.


-Xander
 
Well crap, I could have sworn I had that method bookmarked from another post. I'll see if I can find it and post a link.

I concur with Stacy...do not put this stuff on thick, the outside will cure first leaving uncured oil underneath that WILL make a mess.
 
yep, thats it. I learned it from Woodstock on rimfirecentral. I posted a brief how-to here because I have never seen it here, and I have first hand experiance with the method on knives, gun stocks, and various wood items.

As always, test it on a piece of scrap first.


-Xander
 
Well, I would probably make the folks at Brownell's cringe...

But what I've been doing is actually sanding with it. Usually not until I'm up around 800 grit.... it seems to fill the pores very nicely. If I put another coat on, let it sit till dry, buff by hand with a piece of old shirt or whatever.... then sand very lightly with a "rubber finger" and 2000X paper, then VERY VERY LIGHTLY buff with pink compound on a loose wheel (even remotely aggressive buffing will pull the stuff out of the pores) and------ I get a very nice finish. Shiny, but not the soaking wet look (no offense to those that like that look... I think it's kinda cool, but it's hard to maintain IME).

I did a fighter handle the other day with flame walnut, and I did the same thing, but I started with the Tru-Oil much earlier than usual... at 220X paper sanding stage.

Maybe this is akin to saying I quench my blades in chicken guts, I don't know... But it's sort of a hybrid blend of ideas I picked up from gunsmiths and just plain experimenting.


Edited to say: Armorall as a catalyst?!?!? How the hell did they come up with that? Crazy kids. I've never heard of that, but I'll definitely give it a try. Cool stuff, THANKS!!! :)
 
The Tru-Oil instructions plain suck! On the two stocks I refinished, I let it sit overnight between coats and used scotchbrite instead of steel wool. The Armor All trick is AWESOME!!! :eek: I will certainly have to remember that one for next time! :thumbup:
 
AVigil said:
They lie.

I apply and put in light heat box and let is sit until hard, usually over night. Apply another coat in the morning and let it sit in box until dusk and apply another coat and let sit for 24 hours. When hard I sand out any imperfections and knock down the high spots :) apply another coat and let sit over night again. When hard I then can wet sand and buff usually by hand. Heat from a buffer if not careful will make it soft again. Steel wool can be use but it can make a real mess if there is still a soft spot and then you have to deal with that.

Those instructions on the bottle have caused users problems for years.
Click to expand...

AVigil, do you use a compound when you buff it? What kind?

Thanks.
 
Only thing I'll add is that when using ArmorAll is to do the final coat in the normal way. The Armorall sometimes leaves a faint white haze in the finish. But for building up the finish, it's hard to beat the speed of this method.


-Xander
 
redsquid2 said:
AVigil, do you use a compound when you buff it? What kind?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Once you get your layers on and any dust specs or dimples out I wet sand down to about 1500. Then I use McQuires swirl remover. If there are any imperfections go back and sand them out. Don try to do it with wax, rubbing compound etc. It just takes to long and is not as specific in taking care of one small area. Wet sand then use Swirl remover. With experience you can use rubbing compound then wax then swirl remover to get a clear glass look to it.

But I do not really like "Shiny" on equipment I use. Shiny is for looking at and the last thing I want is people or prey looking at my shiny object when outdoors :)
 
One thing to consider with any oil, or almost any wood finish period.
Curing will be affected by temperature and humidity.
The work area should be warm and dry and the wood should be the same.

Nick's way is real close to how is recommended for gunstocks. Wetsanding with the oil and letting the slurry dry on the handle helps fill open pores.

My opinion on the buffing is different than most of you.

What I like to do is use paste wax after you are finished with the oil and it is good and dry. Then hand buff with an old t-shirt.
Kind of like polishing a pair of leather shoes.

This is just my opinion of what I like based on making boxes.
It is not the right or wrong way. Just how I like to do it.
 
Good point Mark! I do paste wax as the very last step on all of my wooden handles. :) Sorry I forgot that step!
 
fast14riot said:
Yep Tru-Oil needs atleast 10-12 hours at room temp to harden enough to sand. A better way to go about it is to realize that Tru-Oil is only about 10% oil. It is actually a varnish, and treat it as such. I posted a method a while back on using ArmorAll as a catalyst with Tru-Oil, to speed things up. 20 coats in a day is easy with this method. I would link to the thread, but I'm on my phone and can't do it easily. Just be sure to use a tack cloth after cutting the surface down.

-Xander
Click to expand...

If you use the ArmorAll be really careful that NONE of it gets into your bottle of Tru-Oil. I had put some armorAll on a handle using my finger to spread it around, then, not thinking, I used my finger to get some tru-oil and applied it to the handle. The next time I went to use the tru-oil a THICK skin had formed over the tru-oil in the bottle. I had used this bottle on at least a half dozen handles and had never had a skin form until my thoughtless use of my armorAll contaminated finger. I'm much more careful in how I get the tru-oil from the bottle now.

Many tropical woods will not work with tru-oil, or any other oil finish because of the antioxidents in their oils. More info is available in this thread and this thread.

- Paul Meske
 
I'm real late to this thread but want to throw in my method learned from a grizzled old retired gun stock maker. Only buy the small bottles because of the short shelf life. Grind off the instructions and pour out 1/3 of the tru-oil replacing it with mineral spirits. Sand the wood to 220 making sure theres no deeper scratches left in that shows later. Wet sand with tru oil and 220 until it makes a filler slurry that fills the pores. Now just put it in a warm dry place for a week to completely cure. If its not cured the next coat will simply pull out the pours again but once its completely, and I mean "completely" dry it will be good forever. Simply start wet sanding with tru oil progressively going to around 1500-2000 grit wiping it dry each time. Most people dont have this much patience but a good gun stock maker can get amazing results from tru oil and so can we. Paste wax at the end.
 
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