Tru Oil vs Linspeed vs Axe Wax

T

Travis Fry

Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
489
I've used either danish oil or Tru Oil for finishing wood knife handles for years. I like both for different reasons, but am always on the lookout for something better.

I've heard great things about Linspeed (not a typo) oil for ease of use and durability. I've also heard good things about Axe Wax, but am skeptical that a wax product would be durable over time if used for finishing wood knife handles.

Can anyone offer experiences with either? Feedback? Warnings?
 
I have used Linspeed on rifle stocks. It left a very good finish. For knife handles I like to use True oil.
 
I like tru oil for knife handles too. I'm not sure what all the fuss is about Axe Wax tbh other than the fact that it seems overpriced and more of a hype/bandwagon thing? In my opinion, Mothers Car Wax like this 👇 works pretty good for me. If wax that contains carnauba is properly applied and given time to cure like it needs, to me it can be surprisingly durable for the fact of how easy it is to apply.

Apply and let it dry to a haze and hand buff or lightly power buff off. A stick of pure carnuba wax applied to a loose muslin buff is my personal favorite at the moment, it also gives it a good feel and makes the handle look like glass without feeling super slick. The friction melts the wax on the buff then onto the handle. Just remember to LIGHTLY touch the handle to the buff.

 
2_butcher-block-conditioner.png
I have found this to put a beautiful finish on wood, both to the touch and to the eye
its beeswax, carnauba wax, and mineral oil
I'm not sure how it buffs (tho im sure it would work) and I have only used it on natural wood (not stabilized)
I apply liberally / leave it / wipe of the excess in the AM
Really brings out the luster of the wood and has a soft warm in hand feel/finish
 
Last edited:
ISKski said:
View attachment 1773311
I have found this to put a beautiful finish on wood, both to the touch and to the eye
its beeswax, carnauba wax, and mineral oil
I'm not sure how it buffs (tho im sure it would work) and I have only used it on natural wood (not stabilized)
I apply liberally / leave it / wipe of the excess in the AM
Really brings out the luster of the wood and has a soft warm in hand feel/finish
Click to expand...
I've also used this. Though on some woods, I've found it to cause the colors to fade quite quickly
 
For wax on wood, I'm happy with good old Minwax paste floor wax. Works on steel too to preserve and protect.
 
I started Travis down this rabbit trail... I switched from tung over to Linspeed last year. Haven't tried the Axe Wax, but I bought some at Blade.
 
I've always used Tru-oil for handles with good results. I do use Axe Wax on carbon steel blades.

For ironwood handles, I have started using Ben Greenberg's Solar wax. I really like the finish i get with this wax.
 
Gene Kimmi said:
I've always used Tru-oil for handles with good results. I do use Axe Wax on carbon steel blades.

For ironwood handles, I have started using Ben Greenberg's Solar wax. I really like the finish i get with this wax.
Click to expand...
Just got some of that Greenberg stuff. Looks like just what I need for highly figured Australian Yarran.
 
Travis, your wax is going out today.

I'll try to post some better info about how to use it, it's got a bit of learning curve that Gene figured out.

It's a very hard wax, you can't just slap it on the way you can with a paste wax. It has to be warmed up, wither with a heat gun or the friction of a buffer, and when it first goes on it will look like a smudged mess.

The heat of buffing it in with a clean buffing wheel will melt a very thin film off the wax and that can be applied and form a super nice finish, it's also what's depositing the uv resistant compounds over the wood and into the pores.

Let me know what you think!
 
Greenberg Woods said:
Travis, your wax is going out today.

I'll try to post some better info about how to use it, it's got a bit of learning curve that Gene figured out.

It's a very hard wax, you can't just slap it on the way you can with a paste wax. It has to be warmed up, wither with a heat gun or the friction of a buffer, and when it first goes on it will look like a smudged mess.

The heat of buffing it in with a clean buffing wheel will melt a very thin film off the wax and that can be applied and form a super nice finish, it's also what's depositing the uv resistant compounds over the wood and into the pores.

Let me know what you think!
Click to expand...
Looking forward to it. I've applied hard carnauba before back when I was making tobacco pipes, but am always interested in doing things better. Any tips are appreciated. I think it'll be just what the Dr. ordered for some super curly Australian Yarran I picked up at Blade TX, as well as for other super hard stuff like African Blackwood or the other various rosewoods.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top