Trying to find an EDC folder...

Joined
Feb 19, 2012
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39
Hello....

I'm looking for recommendations on an EDC knife that will fit my needs/wants. In general the knife will be used primarily as a utility knife..opening packages, cutting cardboard, and the like. From what I read, cardboard cutting is rough on blades and a tougher steel is recommended. I'd prefer a locking blade, handle material I have no real preference, price around the 50-75 range. Edge/point style.... whichever would be best for my uses (I'm not sure myself what might be best). I currently carry a Centofante III which I love but would like a tougher steel with better edge retention for my daily cutting tasks. Blade size...as long as it's under 3.5 inches I'm fine with it.

Thanks for any/all of the help!
 
I have EDCed a Spyderco Tenacious ($30) and a Benchmade Griptilian ($40-$70) lately. They're both pretty awesome, but the Grip has 154cm steel.
 
From what I've seen about the Skyline it would seem to fit the bill nicely...How thick is the blade? For most of my cutting tasks a thinner blade would be preferable just to reduce effort/drag. How is the 14c28n steel at edge retention?
 
You can get a buck vantage pro (liner lock, S30V, 3.4" blade) for something like 50 bucks.

However, you mentioned you are not satisfied with the Centofante III? Spyderco does their VG10 very well (it's a great steel to boot) so if you aren't satisfied with that, I am wondering if you got a lemon?

If you didn't you'd need to shell out a bit more than $75 to get into the next "tier" of fancy steels.
 
Maybe try a Native IV. S30V, made in the states and under $65. You also might want to look at Kershawguys blem collection. You could get an S30V Leek, a composite edge Leek, or an S30V Blur just to name a few.
 
Nick, how sharp is your Centofante? I can understand the justification to buy a new knife, but if you're really having cutting issues, then there may be an easier way to fix the problem.

I have heard that cardboard uses clay as a binding agent, making it slightly abrasive. All I know for sure is that cardboard, especially corrugated, is a real test of edge quality.

I've found it actually helps to use a coarser sharpening medium. Right now, I use 250 grit diamond. For some applications, that would be considered a very "dull" edge, but I find it gives my knives a "toothy" quality, like a microscopic saw. It helps, especially when cutting thicker materials, and I find it makes short work of paper and tape, as well.

There are resources on aspects of sharpening all over the web, and many of them discuss what we know of the mechanical interaction between a knife and what it's cutting. Some time spent searching will give you more information than you thought possible.

Personally, I have also noticed that different steels seem to react differently to the same sharpening media. You may get better performance out of your knife by sharpening to a coarser, or finer, standard.
 
I've actually had pretty good experiences with my CB Leek (CPM-D2 steel on the edge) on breaking down cardboard (corrugated, 1 & 2-ply). It held an edge for bit longer than my Delica (VG10) under similar use. I found that a slightly toothy edge (~600 grit medium stone) actually seemed to work better on my Leek for breaking down boxes.
 
Being a knife newb I'm not studied well on sharpening but obviously it's something I should learn. I'm not dissatisfied with the knife but just looking for something new really that could perhaps serve my purpose better. That Buck looks promising but it seems to have some QC type issues...The native would probably be a better choice out of those two. Thanks on the idea of checking out some of the Kershaw Blem's S30V stuff but from what I see it seems they are out of those models...pity.
 
Nickadolin: How many cardboard boxes do you cut up each day on average? Also, at present, how often do you re-sharpen your Centofante?
 
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