Trying to reprofile my Strider SmF - Need Help

Toyz · Apr 17, 2011

I have a new Strider SmF with the digicam S30V blade (about 5 months old), and I wanted to turn it into more of a slicer than a sharpened prybar.

I wanted to reprofile the edge - I believe they set the angles at 22.5 degrees per side and I was going to take it to 20 degrees, while trying to make a more defined and sharp point on the blade.

I worked for about an hour with the Spyderco Sharpmaker, and a diamond sharpening rod that you use freehand. It didn't go so well. I worked on it for about an hour, and although relatively sharp, it isn't pretty.

I also proceeded to slightly round the tip - nothing bad - but it is very difficult for me to control the knife while using the Sharpmaker to the point where it doesn't come off the rods and round the tip.

Any suggestions? I know a lot of people use different sharpening systems here, like the Edgepro, Lansky, paper wheels, etc. I just have a problem spending that kind of money on a system when I can maintain most of my knives with the Sharpmaker or my Arkansas stone. I hate to play the mail game and have to send it to someone. Is sending this to someone who is skilled my only option here to get a nice professional looking job?

Has anyone been successful in reprofiling S30V with their Sharpmaker? If so - are there any tips/tricks? At this point I don't want to make more of a mess of the edge - it is very salvageable but if I keep monkeying around with it I will need to send it back to Strider and have them fix it.

I worked on the edge for about an hour - was this enough time? I would do 15-20 strokes per side on the respective coarse and fine rods, and worked the tip with the freehand diamond rod. I repeated this process several times over the hour I worked on it.

Any advice would be appreciated.

ROBB · Apr 17, 2011

worked on the edge for about an hour - was this enough time? I would do 15-20 strokes per side on the respective coarse and fine rods, and worked the tip with the freehand diamond rod. I repeated this process several times over the hour I worked on it.

1 hour is not enough to reprofile a Strider SMF. IMO it would be a lot eaiser using a belt sander or diamond stones. You mentioned using the diamond rod for the tip. What grit is it. A coarse or extra coarse would be good. Just using the brown rod on the SM would take many hrs. I'm guessing the SMF is S30v steel. Its not as easy as a 1095 blade.
I have a WorkSharp sharpener and its great for reprofiling. What would take hours on stones the WS can do in minutes. Its very simple to change belts and put a mirror finish on the blade.

Toyz · Apr 17, 2011

The diamond rod seems to be coarse (It's called the "Cutting Horse") - it does take steel off quite fast but leaves behind a very rough surface and edge. It also requires me to use it freehand, and that's probably not the best thing. I don't know how I can maintain the consistent edge geometry by doing freehand.

It sounds like I am trying to use the wrong tool for the job if reprofiling the Strider takes that kind of effort.

ROBB · Apr 17, 2011

The diamond rod seems to be coarse (It's called the "Cutting Horse") - it does take steel off quite fast but leaves behind a very rough surface and edge

If you want to reprofile the blade then removing steel is what you want to do. If you're not that confident about freehand sharpening maybe you could tape the diamond rod to the SharpMaker and thin the edge down that way then use the brown rod. After that the white rod. I read a post where someone was able to fit an oval type diamond rod into the SharpMaker slot and sharpen.

softrockrenegade · Apr 17, 2011

It took me forever to reprofile my sng on a lansky ! I think Thr sharpmaker is the wring tool for this ! Striders s30v is tough stuff !!

Toyz · Apr 17, 2011

I agree it is tough stuff - it seems like I need to find someone who does this for a living and let them do the initial reprofiling.

I know I can maintain the edge after that - I just don't want to ruin the blade.

Anyone know who can do this for me that can fit it into their schedule and do a bang up job?

richard j · Apr 17, 2011

i can fix you up. send me an email rje196021@gmail.com

ROBB · Apr 17, 2011

I agree it is tough stuff - it seems like I need to find someone who does this for a living and let them do the initial reprofiling.

I know I can maintain the edge after that - I just don't want to ruin the blade.

Anyone know who can do this for me that can fit it into their schedule and do a bang up job?

Give Richard J a call. He has many satisfied customers here. Do a quick search if you need to. You may want an even thinner profile. He's one of the experts, see what he says.

230grains · Apr 17, 2011

I spent two hours reprofiling mine, used the full range of DMTs freehand.

I recently thinned it out a little more. That's generally what I do when I have something very thick with a poor edge, reprofile a little then in subsequent sharpenings take a little more off each time. It's not quite a super slicer now, but its worlds better and the toughness is a good trade off IMO. I wouldn't want to reprofile using a sharpmaker, even with the diamond rods. Be patient, and don't drag the tip off the rod.

Noctis3880 · Apr 17, 2011

Or could could buy 60 grit sandpaper, tape it to your rods, and have at it:thumbup:. And never move onto a finer grit until you feel the burr on one side. When you do, move to the other side and again feel for the burr. Though to be honest, I've never found the sharpmaker to give me very precise edge angles, mostly because I have a problem with holding the knife at a completely straight angle throughout the strokes.