Tuatahi Project

M

moosecreektrails

Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
242
Sold one of my other Tuatahi axes to a fellow trail Guy,To fund a another Race axe :confused:( Aussie Speed Racing Axe) :D.
Got me motivated to finish this one.
Still have to Wedge and pin the Handle, polish the head, and stone strop the edge.
Test chop pictures to follow.



 
No, I use a makita belt sander,off the pivot(rare earth magnet)shown in the second picture.
Sometimes I use a flap sander on a angle grinder,then bring back the lines with the makita.(faster)

Thanks
Moose
 
I bet it's hell getting the filings off of that rare earth magnet. :D

You've really gotten into this racing axe thing. I'm sure enjoying your posts. Have you started to develop preferences for favorite axes and grinds?
 
Square_peg said:
I bet it's hell getting the filings off of that rare earth magnet. :D

You've really gotten into this racing axe thing. I'm sure enjoying your posts. Have you started to develop preferences for favorite axes and grinds?
Click to expand...

No Favorites,As long as they are #5+ racing patterns,Maybe like guns,my favorite is my next one:D
Chisel grind, primary 18 to 19 degrees,With a 25 degree micro,I thin the micro for my clear wood axes(almost gone),Leave It fatter for my working axes.

Thanks
Moose
 
Correction...Tuatahi is New Zealand, not Australia. It's base is Masterton, a small town in the North Island.

A very rough translation of the Maori language word Tuatahi means 'The Best' or Number One'

regards...Frank
 
jeffreylinard said:
you wouldnt happen to have one for sale would you?
Click to expand...
No sorry.

Frank-New Zealand said:
Correction...Tuatahi is New Zealand, not Australia. It's base is Masterton, a small town in the North Island.

A very rough translation of the Maori language word Tuatahi means 'The Best' or Number One'

regards...Frank
Click to expand...
Sold one of my other Tuatahi axes to a fellow trail Guy,To fund a another Race axe ( Keech Aussie Speed Racing Axe) .
Should have added Keech from Australia, but I Ended up buying another Tuatahi.
Thanks for the translation:thumbup:
 
moosecreektrails said:
No Favorites,As long as they are #5+ racing patterns,Maybe like guns,my favorite is my next one:D
Chisel grind, primary 18 to 19 degrees,With a 25 degree micro,I thin the micro for my clear wood axes(almost gone),Leave It fatter for my working axes.

Thanks
Moose
Click to expand...

Behind your cheeks, do you hollow grind any towards the eye? if so, how much and how to you evenly grind that? also, do you leave a high center line.... and again-- how do you evenly and consistently do that? I bought one of those chinese bailey's axes and I am trying to put a profile on it right now. It is one ugly chunk of metal-- 6.38lbs of ugly, hard, misshapen metal. the price (40 bucks) was about right... but I am seeing it now more as a curse! so far, grinding the shoulders down ate through two 36grit flap disks!


Now Hopefully I will get this thing done before I head back to idaho for the summer. y'all have a trail crew this year amid the budget snafu's?
 
Here is a question out of ignorance; Why does one chisel grind a race ax? Wouldn't you take swings from both sides of your body?
 
Marcelo Cantu said:
Here is a question out of ignorance; Why does one chisel grind a race ax? Wouldn't you take swings from both sides of your body?
Click to expand...

unfortunately, the term "chisel grind" has nothing to do with the number of bevels, rather the shape of the bevels. both sides are ground, and a chisel grind (width of bevel from heel to toe is consistent) is different than other grinds like "banana" and so on. check out the "variations of grinds" on this page for further explanation: http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/racingaxes.html#main

although, it is funny you brought this up, I have been pondering a double bit with each side single beveled opposite to each other-- probably not practical though.
 
Thanks for the explanation and the link!

Actually it wouldn't be a bad idea on a double bit hatchet for carving. You could have the chisel grinds on the same face for right hand and left hand use, or like you say on opposite sides with differently angles bevels..
 
idaho_crosscut said:
Behind your cheeks, do you hollow grind any towards the eye? if so, how much and how to you evenly grind that? also, do you leave a high center line.... and again-- how do you evenly and consistently do that? I bought one of those chinese bailey's axes and I am trying to put a profile on it right now. It is one ugly chunk of metal-- 6.38lbs of ugly, hard, misshapen metal. the price (40 bucks) was about right... but I am seeing it now more as a curse! so far, grinding the shoulders down ate through two 36grit flap disks!


Now Hopefully I will get this thing done before I head back to idaho for the summer. y'all have a trail crew this year amid the budget snafu's?
Click to expand...
If they are super fat,I will use a belt sander,to thin the profile down,rolling the head to keep a little high center line,And then I use a Magnet and the makita to do the chisel and bevels.The racing ax is hollow behind the chisel,Ground for soft wood. [/B]
I will grind, then go test it,Aim for good performance,not perfect,If not you will get it to thin and roll a edge.
Practice will bring consistency,Sounds like a good one to practice on:thumbup:
Try not getting to hung up on the ax or grinds,More on the use of it(I know, kind of BS coming from a ax junkie).
 
I should implement 2 hours of chopping for every 1 hour of grinding. pretty soon, there wont be a single palm tree within a mile of the shop, because lord knows i don't want to break the bit of every axe I own trying to chop thru live oak. damn that stuff is hard! reminds me of that link you posted about chopping australian hardwoods.
 
Interesting thread.
There is a NZ racing axe for sale in Australia for $700 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/newcastle-2300/other-sports-fitness/racing-axe/1041523893

Also, a link for race grind profiles: http://www.osborneaxes.com.au/conventional_grinds.html

_46097713_rwspics6007.jpg
 
idaho_crosscut said:
I should implement 2 hours of chopping for every 1 hour of grinding. pretty soon, there wont be a single palm tree within a mile of the shop, because lord knows i don't want to break the bit of every axe I own trying to chop thru live oak. damn that stuff is hard! reminds me of that link you posted about chopping australian hardwoods.
Click to expand...
You get more practice on the hard stuff:thumbup: You should be able to find some pine, but The green red and white oak chops like butter.

Moyenne said:
Interesting thread.
There is a NZ racing axe for sale in Australia for $700 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/newcastle-2300/other-sports-fitness/racing-axe/1041523893

Also, a link for race grind profiles: http://www.osborneaxes.com.au/conventional_grinds.html

_46097713_rwspics6007.jpg
[/QUOTE
I see some nice stuff on Australia Eb!!!.But shipping is the deal killer:thumbdn:
Click to expand...
 
Hey, I paid US100 for Airmail shipping for a used camera tripod (a pro unit) from the urban US to urban me. It was a heavy duty, and the buy was still a huge saving on local prices.
 
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