Tube fasteners

dobywon

dobywon

Joined
May 30, 2008
Messages
3,603
Hey Hogs,

I was just wondering if anyone could shed some light on the handle fasteners that Busse uses on their knives. Some of the older ones look fater and nicer than the ones they are currently using. What is the deal, any info greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Lee
 
I'll have to check out mine, I had'nt noticed a difference. Aside from some are longer and some are shorter possibly giving the appearance of thinner or thicker pieces.
 
Seems like some of the older ones are shinier, and some of the new ones look a bit rougher in the holes. I think I know what you are talking about though.
 
Do you have pics to show the difference? I am not quite sure what you are asking. Are you referring to the actual thickness of the tubes? Or are you asking about how much tube extension covering the countersunk portion of the handles?
 
Ban said:
Do you have pics to show the difference? I am not quite sure what you are asking. Are you referring to the actual thickness of the tubes? Or are you asking about how much tube extension covering the countersunk portion of the handles?
Click to expand...

Hey Ban you are on to it. I think what I am talking about is the extensions covering the holes. Some of the earlier pieces look to be smoother and come out of the holes more whereas the newer knives seem to be just barely out of the holes and some even seem to be kinda crimped. It just seems to me that they were made better on the earlier knives.

"Edit to add"

Ok guys this is a pic that I borrowed off the exchange from De Oppresso Liber "hope you dont mind" but it has the older type of fasteners.

Some that I have seen look even better than these but this is what I am talking about.

Picture201133.jpg
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Hey guys I found another pic this one is from Lazlo, but it really has some nice fasteners.

CamoMeaner2.jpg
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Like Leatherman said. Probably the lengths which would result in a bigger or smaller flare.
 
I also think it has to do with who is doing the flairing as to how smooth they come out. Some might not be taking as much care in keeping the knife levell thus causing some galling in the surface of the tube.

Most of mine are nice and smooth, so I think its a not so common thing for them to get cosmetically flawed.

Also, I dont worry so much about cosmetics. If the tube was split, on the other hand, then I'd have some cause to worry.
 
What process / technique does Busse use for applying the tube fasteners? It's it done by hand, one at a time? Set up on some sort of die and pressed?

I'd be very curious to find out!
 
As Dwayne has mentioned.... The human factor plays a major role and the length of the tubing will determine how much of the countersink gets covered. On the flip side it also depends on how deep and wide the handles are countersunk.

As far as smoothness in the flare itself....that would depend on the material being flared and the condition of the flaring dies. The brass tubing are easiest to flare while the stainless ones are easier to flare then say the nickel/stainless tubes.

The proper fit, smoothness, and angle of the dies will give a nicer flare. The stainless dies will somewhat get compressed over time changing the angles requiring more more force to do the work.

One other thing to keep in mind is that the inside finish of the tubing is different from one batch to the next.
 
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Grimspoon said:
What process / technique does Busse use for applying the tube fasteners? It's it done by hand, one at a time? Set up on some sort of die and pressed?

I'd be very curious to find out!
Click to expand...

No one really knows for sure except for the folks that work at the shop. I would guess that they would be using some sort of hydraulic press with dies.
 
leatherman said:
I also think it has to do with who is doing the flairing as to how smooth they come out. Some might not be taking as much care in keeping the knife levell thus causing some galling in the surface of the tube.

Most of mine are nice and smooth, so I think its a not so common thing for them to get cosmetically flawed.

Also, I dont worry so much about cosmetics. If the tube was split, on the other hand, then I'd have some cause to worry.
Click to expand...

Maybe to some of you guys money is no object but for me when I spend the kind of money that it requires to buy Busse knives cosmetics is a big deal.

I have a few users but the majority of my Busse's are safe queens that only get used for admiration. That is why the coametics is a big deal to me.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.
 
I think it has to do with the thckness of the knife too.

Look at these .3+ thick OD's.... almost no flare.

2636614957_e19f7f91e3_o.jpg


Say vs. a .14 thick Game Warden
2635254563_5d2d8bde40_b.jpg
 
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I also think that there are some brass flared tubes out there floating around. I definitely see some smoother and shinier than others. I also sees some that appear to be longer, or more flared than others.
 
Bigfattyt said:
I also think that there are some brass flared tubes out there floating around. I definitely see some smoother and shinier than others. I also sees some that appear to be longer, or more flared than others.
Click to expand...

That is what I am talking about, and it seems to be in more of the older models that have the nicer looking ones. Look at the black paper camo blade meaner in the pic in post #6 and tell me that any of the new knives have fasteners like that, even the same model of knife has different ones.
 
Well flared tube fasteners on a fairly thick Off Duty (.37") - probably due to the relatively thin snakeskin slabs.

02.jpg
 
Yes but also on yours the tube are counter sunk. I'm not saying any way is better ... just accounts for the difference.

Mmmmm I should get that lower OD of mine done in pins :D :thumbup:

.



Grimspoon said:
Well flared tube fasteners on a fairly thick Off Duty (.37") - probably due to the relatively thin snakeskin slabs.

02.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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