Tuff Cloth (or similar) Question

TheMtnMan

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Feb 11, 2015
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Hello
Any of you guys used Tuff Cloth or similar product on your safe queens ? It doesn't dry up eventually and kinda tarnishes the nice Satin finish ?
Also do most of you wipe off the Factory oil satin blades come in ? Would that eventually dry up and ruin perfect satin finish ?
 
I use Tuf Glide. It doesn't tarnish the finish. It does leave a (protective) film in the blade, that wipes away with a dry cloth. I doubt any purpose-specific lubricating and protecting oil would ruin the finish.
 
I asked several times about Tuf-Glide/Tuf-Cloth about a week ago. Received no feedback specifically on those products, but there were several recommendations in the way of Renaissance Wax; a "micro-crystalline wax polish" used by museums the world over for protecting priceless artifacts. I snatched a 200mL (probably a lifetime supply) of the stuff for about $20USD off of Amazon; have not used yet. By all recommendations and indications it's inert enough to use on just about anything (wood, metal, bone, ceramic, eh...even photographs). Jaxx said that a knifemaker put several protectants to the test on uncoated blades and Renaissance Wax was the clear winner ("by a visible margin," if I recall correctly). No definitive information on its safety regarding food-grade cutlery, but it seems unless you're eating the stuff directly by the tablespoon, it shouldn't affect bodily functions.

That being said, I have found that Tuf-Glide, while it works really well in lubricating parts and providing a dry layer of protectant, needs to be reapplied every few months. I live in a high-humidity area now, and a higher-humidity area (a got-damn rainforest) before that, and Tuf-Glide worked beautifully but would expire (?) and would require additional application within 2-3 months. YMMV, as they say, but it's good stuff if you don't plan on food applications. I mean everything is bound you give you turbo-cancer in adequate amounts, but as I understand it Tuf-Glide/Tuf-Cloth is fairly toxic and not recommended for cutlery intended for food use.

As a dry lube for moving parts it's pretty great though. I used it to lube the bearings on a ZT-0561 in said rainforest (northern coastal South America--it rained every day, constant 95% humidity) and was enough to prevent rusting/seizing of the IKBS ball bearings. I had a BK-2 (1095 steel) and a CRKT Chogan Woods Hawk (1055) there as well (by the way, tomahawk in a rainforest is useless unless you're using on jaguars or caiman--a Cold Steel Smatchet [I know, blasphemy, but it was the third world and there were customs/shipping/transportation issues] was the winner in the jungle) that I used it on and neither rusted; I was there 14 months and the BK-2 looked brand new at the end. The takeaway is that through consistent (read: every couple months) use it prevented rust on high-carbon blades, presumably at a lower grit and higher carbon content than satin Busses.

For INFI I've found it doesn't affect the finish; I seem to recall another BF member mentioning that he wiped down each of his nicer blades with a Tuf-Cloth before storing back in his safe. I assume it presented no issues to him.

But as far as top-notch rust-/oxidation-prevention, it seemed Renaissance Wax was voted the winner with some firearm lubes/protectants as a close second (Froglube, Slip 2000 EWL). Duramax has some rust-/oxidation-prevention recommendations as well, but he's reluctant to share those so you'd have to hit him up in a private fashion. **(I'm not calling Duramax out, he has good advice, but he's trying not to conflict with BladeForums sponsors and whatnot.)
 
I use Tuf-Glide, and it does make the finish look a little different while applied. I don't think it would have any long-term negative effects, though.

Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone have a good food-grade solution that doesn't need to stay wet like mineral oil?
 
Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone have a good food-grade solution that doesn't need to stay wet like mineral oil?

I have read that Ren Wax is safe to ingest once the initial (petroleum?) carrier is evaporated, which you can tell by smell. I have yet to use Ren Wax for anything other than storage so not sure if it holds up to cutting. It does seem to last far longer for storage though than Tuf Glide.

Frog Lube is food grade. Application is supposed to be: apply, let sit for several minutes, then wipe off. I only just obtained some recently to start trying on account of my upcoming first born (1 month to go!). Unfortunately I do not have any long term opinions, but so far so good on light use with a 3V blade.
 
i use Fluid Film or wax. wax wont digest, but if its a safe queen, its the best solution. fluid film while great is Lanolin based, some may be allergic to that.
 
OP...I have used Tuf Glide for almost 10 years on many blades and have never seen it damage a satin finish. I never applied it to satin INFI, but never had it damage any satin stainless, tool, or carbon steel I've used it on. It does sometimes seem to leave a slight haze, but that is superficial and wears away over time even with zero use.
 
I seem to remember seeing some negative comments about Ren wax a while back...I believe it referenced issues with long term use. (sorry, don't recall the details)
 
I have read that Ren Wax is safe to ingest once the initial (petroleum?) carrier is evaporated, which you can tell by smell. I have yet to use Ren Wax for anything other than storage so not sure if it holds up to cutting. It does seem to last far longer for storage though than Tuf Glide.

Frog Lube is food grade. Application is supposed to be: apply, let sit for several minutes, then wipe off. I only just obtained some recently to start trying on account of my upcoming first born (1 month to go!). Unfortunately I do not have any long term opinions, but so far so good on light use with a 3V blade.
Good to know, and congrats! I just had my first (well, that is, my wife had him) a little over a week ago. All I can say is, Wow! Enjoy! :D
 
I use the marine tuff version and I've never had any dramas. Re longevity, anything I use it on (mainly rifles and knives) gets fondled every little while anyhow. But I reckon it would protect for aaaaaages.
 
I've left satin INFI in (quality) leather for months at a time under a car seat with no effect on the finish--none. I don't recommend it--just sayin'.
 
I had this guy sit in a sheath last few weeks, than took it out today, still spotless lol
 

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I use Tuf-Glide, and it does make the finish look a little different while applied. I don't think it would have any long-term negative effects, though.

Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone have a good food-grade solution that doesn't need to stay wet like mineral oil?

I can attest to the use of Burt's Bees (the lip balm) for protecting the edges of coated blades of lesser quality and higher carbon content. The beeswax is the critical factor, and it's food safe. The initial recommendation by user Cynic2701 was posted circa 2010 in a BladeForums ESEE Knives discussion (they were all 1095 at the time, I think); I rolled with it and have had good results on everything from 1055 to SK-5 to AUS-8. For satin blades, perhaps the Froglube is a better alternative to slathering chapstick on your knife.

I applied Renaissance Wax to a few coated blade edges today and a satin EPDLE. It smells addictively bad, like gasoline or Hoppe's No. 9. Time will tell. I took to storing my Busses and one other nice knife in an "airtight" box from The Container Store, then put that box inside of an MTM Case-Gard large ammo crate (both with rubber gaskets), with packets of desiccant strewn about. A box within a box! What could go wrong!?
 
Nota bene regarding RenWax: more than one well-worked in coat is likely needed to protect even precleaned satin INFI from harsh conditions. Before a recent backpacking trip into Waimanu Valley (beach-side jungle, so really wet and really salty), I put one very thorough coat onto my favorite satin NMSFNO after carefully cleaning it.

By day 2, it had small flecks of surface corrosion starting all over - including spots not possibly affected by chopping/other use.
 
I used Tufglide years ago. Liked it but them found Militec-1. I clean the blade warm with a hairdryer and apply the Militec-1 then warm it some more. Wipe it dry and use or store. Never had a blade tarnish including BRKT A2 from storage and really helps with use even on the really nonstainless steels. Also treat all my firearms with it but I do leave key areas not wiped dry like regular oil. Don't think it would really need it but I figure ain't going to hurt and I don't plan on rolling around in a desert anytime soon. I do the same treatment on folders that can be taken apart and as regular oil on ones I can't. The stuff really does do it all,even added it to my lawnmower oil. Just ordered a 32oz bottle and filled about 15 1/2 oz dropper bottles so I can store and use it easier.
 
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