TufGlide, RemOil, Militec-1, What's best and why?

Ballistol
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I should be getting some Sentry Smooth Cote soon, its only suitable as a lubricant and Im not sure if you mean lube, rust protectant, or some of both. I like ballistol and use it for all my knives, its good on leather, wood, steel, and damn near everything else. Non toxic to boot
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I can only restate what I have said before: nobody knows more about lubricating folding knives than balisong artists. In five minutes of play, I can put more cycles on the joints of my knife than even the dedicated "flicker" will put on a typical folder in a year.

Four out of Five balisong artist surveyed recommend Militec-1 for its durability. It takes a few applications to build up a layer of that stuff, but once you get that layer, you can go for weeks (of balisong use) before you need to reapply.



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
Smooth Kote was originally developed for providing a extremely friction free surface geared towards the bore/ barrel of a firearm. It is stated to increase velocity of a projectile and to reduce fouling/ leading. It also evaporates quite quickly as it uses alcohol as its primary carrier. Because of this, it is quite free flowing and will drip from all areas. It also needs a curing time for full potential effectiveness. Additionally, it is very dark grey or close to anthracite in color which will stain quite readily.

For breaking down gunk and cleaning and lubing qualities, Breakfree CLP will do quite well. But for routine lubing without needing to remove any gunk, I simply reach for Tri Flow or Finish Line (bicycle industry) brand wet lube.

Nakano
 
RemOil is great for cleaning blades and bores. I use that first to clean of gunk; whether it be glue from packing tape, blood, etc. Once clean and dry, the action gets TufGlide.

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It's not the pace of life that concerns me, It's the sudden stop at the end.
 
I use SGT. Mikes technique.
If the blade is non-stainless or damascus I follow up with Renn. Wax.
Never had a problem with rust and the Tough-Glide is great for keeping the actions smooth.

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" Life is too short to carry an ugly knife." Steve F.
 
I've tried some of the teflon oils and such, even graphite as a dry lube.

My favorite method is to violate your warranty.
Dissasemble the knife.
Clean everything.
Using gloves or only holding things with a paper towel, apply a liberal coat of Tuf Cloth to the metal parts and washers.
Let dry.
Buff off residue per instructions. Reassemble never touching the parts with exposed skin (gloves/paper towles again). At this point, the action is very smooth. You can maintain this smoothness using Tuf-Glide. Your liners don't rust anymore either.

Mixing lubricants in the pivot tends to gum up in my experience. And you can't clean out existing mystery lubricant from the factory without dissasembling the knife.

Some knives, such as the OE Impulse, can't be taken apart fully at home because screws are buried under Kraton. In this case, I disassemble the pivot and slide out the blade and washers for lubing. A little trickier to reassemble, but it can be done.

Phil
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by phatch:

My favorite method is to violate your warranty.
Dissasemble the knife.
Clean everything.
Using gloves or only holding things with a paper towel, apply a liberal coat of Tuf Cloth to the metal parts and washers.
Let dry.
Buff off residue per instructions. Reassemble never touching the parts with exposed skin (gloves/paper towles again). </font>
Click to expand...

You too, huh? Glad to see I'm not the only one who likes this method!


Firebat



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Name's Ash......Housewares.
 
Why do I like that?

I live in a gritty dusty old house. I develop lots of lint in the pocket. It's sandy here too. I exude caustic sweat (I rust liners regularly in daily carry).

This lubrication method is the most dirt tolerant I have found for my environment. It's fairly easy to maintain after the first preparation and not very expensive.

The dry lubes do not hang on to dirt or moisture.

It's a good routine for taking care of the knife in spite of manufacturer's statements regarding warranty.

In a different environment, I might prefer something else. You'll need to try a couple of things to find what works well for you. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit.

White Lightning is getting some good reviews here so you might look at that too.

Phil


 
hey Phatch, if you like White Lightening, give Boeshield a try. I've used both on my mountainbike and fount that White Lightening to not last even a full ride. Boeshield would last several rides before I had to reapply. I also use it on my folders with good results. The only problem is that it is petrol based, so you'll have to give it more time to dry. Once it dries and leaves it's film, it'll lubricate as well as a wet lube.
 
My "general purpose" lube is Super Lube 2000.It is a spray PTFE film lube with a rapidly evaporating carrier. I started using it with the cable drive on my Dremel, which became too hot to hold after a few minutes with Dremel's own oil. Now, I can carve on brass pieces, with carbide bits, for over 15 min. without overheating. The film is _tough_, and doesn't wear quicky. After this experience, I began using it on the rails, barrels and bushings on my .45s. Same result. It leaves a film on blued surfaces, but appears to repel moisture as long as it is present. Thecritical application was on my new D2 Sifu. T first application seemed to gall the pivot, and scared me to death (new knife, first thing you do is screw up). I believe the carrier moved something (lint, whatever) around, because after first shock, I re-sprayed and the blade now almost falls away on it's own.

[This message has been edited by Walosi (edited 01-25-2001).]
 
I like Tuf Glide a lot, it works well and does not act as a dirt magnet.

However, I have found it is not enough for some knives, like my Sebenza and Military.

Visit the site below for a review of a great and inexpensive PTFE product.

I like the look of Miltech. When I can, I will get some and give it a go!

W.A.

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"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
http://members.aol.com/knivesuk/
 
Another vote for Tuf-Glide and the related products like Tuf Cloth. They do not leave a residue that will attract lint and grit.
 
Loosen the pivot screw so there is sufficient blade wobble. Spray liberally with WD40. Let soak for a few minutes. Blast dry with a compressor! (if one is handy) Lube with your favorite concoction. Retighten/ adjust pivot screw. You' re all set. No need for complete takedown.

Nakano
 
I was dedicated to using TufCloth and TufGlide on my knives - until I tried Militec-1. Now, the TufGlide is simply used to recharge the TufCloth. I still use TufCloth for corrosion protection, but TufGlide can't compare to Militec-1. It's really like comparing a production Monte Carlo with a NASCAR Monte. They both dry after bonding to the metal, though Militec-1 takes longer (unless you use a hairdryer). The only trick with the Militec is that it needs a little heat to make the bond.

I was curious and skeptical before I made the switch. So, I did a little experiment. I completely cleaned my BM 705BT, put TufGlide on the pivot, and then waited for it to dry completely. I opened the knife, then, with the blade horizontal, I disengaged the lock. The blade freely swung down, but only went a little past vertical.

Then, I completely cleaned it again, put Militec-1 on it, and used a hair dryer to dry it and make the bond. This time, when I released the lock, the blade swung all the way back, making contact with the handle before swinging back down to vertical.

Not exactly scientific, but it sold me, especially considering the small size and weight of the 705's blade.

Something else - it takes very, very little Militec-1. So, even if you don't heat it until it dries, there is very little to attract dirt/dust.

It's worth ordering one of the 1/4 oz bottles and shipping, about $10, just to test it out.

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Knowledge without understanding is knowledge wasted.
Understanding without knowledge is a rare gift - but not an impossibility.
For the impossible is always possible through faith. - Bathroom graffiti, gas station, Grey, TN, Dec, 1988

AKTI Member #A000831

[This message has been edited by Codeman (edited 01-26-2001).]
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mtnbkr:
hey Phatch, if you like White Lightening, give Boeshield a try. I've used both on my mountainbike and fount that White Lightening to not last even a full ride. Boeshield would last several rides before I had to reapply.</font>
Click to expand...

I too use Boeshield on my mountain bike with good results, but I'm still reluctant to use it on my knives. I'm a bit nervous that the petrol based solvents won't take to kindly to the plastic washers in my Benchmades. If you have metal washers/spacers in your nives, go ahead and try it, but be sure to let the stuff dry overnight for best results.

 
Erkfsn,
You'll get alot of opinions here regarding these products. To really get to the meat of the matter, you need to tell us what you wnat these products for....ie, do you want rust prevention, lubrication, long term storage, etc.

My feelings are that for most modern folders, rust prevention is the main concern, not lubrication. Most modern folders have self lubricatiting blade washers and/or pivot bushings that the blades rotate on. Additional lubrication can sometimes cause problems, like attracting and holding dirt and grit in the 'action' of the knife. What these knives do need is dry rust preventation in the inner working of the knife, ie the pivot areas. Tuf-Glide is my pick for this. I have had EXCELLENT results with Tuf-Glide and Tuf-Cloth for rust prevention. It has some lubrications qualities, but is primarily a dry, rust preventative.

I will admit not having any experience with Militech, because after learning that it contained CHLORINE, which is corrosive to steel, I have steered clear. It may only attack the base metal on a small level, but I would rather not have this happen long term. I know there are many fans of the stuff, and it obivously must work for them, but since I have had excellent results with Sentry Solutions Products, I have stuck with what I know works. Have the MILITECH users out there had any problems with corrosive pitting in the pvots they have applied MILITECH to long term?

If you are looking for products offering alot of lubrication, like for firearms, Sentry's other products, like Hi-slip grease,Smooth Cote and BP 2000 powder are excellent. I shoot nationally and internationally in clay target competition, and though I shoot an Over and Under shotgun now[needs less maintance, but kicks more], I shot a BERETTA gas operated auto for 4 years. I have NEVER found anything that made a firearm run smooth, cleaner, and longer than the above mentioned Sentry products. A gas operated shotgun is one of the nastiest firearms made, generating alot of gases, powder residue and plastic fouling[from the wad in the shell]. Using Sentry's Smooth Cote/BP2000 combination cut my cleaning from once every 1000 shells, to once every 3000 or more. And when I did have to clean the gun, it was ALOT easier, with residue just brushing off in most cases. If you really want to lube something, give this stuff a try. For most cutlery applications, Tuf-Cloth/TUf-Glide is all you need....IMHO
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Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
Camillus Cutlery
www.camillusknives.com

[This message has been edited by Will Fennell (edited 01-26-2001).]
 
I've heard that top of the line auto parts stores carry it, but I know it's available directly www.militec-1.com and www.benchmade.com

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Knowledge without understanding is knowledge wasted.
Understanding without knowledge is a rare gift - but not an impossibility.
For the impossible is always possible through faith. - Bathroom graffiti, gas station, Grey, TN, Dec, 1988

AKTI Member #A000831
 
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