Tumbled finish on blade

spiralarchitect

spiralarchitect

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Apr 29, 2007
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I am working on a couple of projects that I think would be super nice with a tumbled (or stonewashed if you'd rather) finish. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could

a) Point me in the direction of someone who would be able to do the work

or

b) Explain how I could do it myself. I am not averse to the idea of buying some equipment if I can do it at a reasonable cost.

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide. :thumbup:
 
If it is a small blade, you can put it in a Rock Tumbler toy, which can be found pretty cheap at most scientific toy stores.
 
Depends on your desired finish, I would try a handful of small nuts and bolts first, that would give a nice effect, or for a rougher finish a handful of fine gravel and sand.
 
Yea, the ceramic media works. It just takes a while - as in at least 24 hours - to work on hardened blades for polishing. Make sure your media is different sizes. 4 bags of the small, and two of the big filled my tumbler just right. I used a hair of simple green, maybe 1/4 cup. If you decide to use the media with grit, or rouge, DO NOT use any liquid. The grit will turn to concrete on the bottom in no time. Clean up sucks. As far as the vibratory tumbler, you are limited to how big your blades can be, cause if it is too big then it will not rotate with the media the way it's supposed to. Tumblers around 17" are stupid expensive, but the Dillon CV2001 is I believe the biggest I have seen as far as inexpensive reloading tumblers goes.

http://www.stoneageindustries.com/ceramic_media_small.html
http://www.stoneageindustries.com/ceramic_media_large.html
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/co.../Dillon__039_s_CV_2001_Vibratory_Case_Cleaner


I still have not gotten the concrete mixer yet. I am currently pouring all play funds into building my grinder. Still on the list of things to do for the workshop though.
 
Thanks for all the info.... I'm gonna have to mull this over for a while. I am going for a finish like Chris Reeve uses........maybe If i beg CR will just let me send it in when I send my Sebenza blade for a refinish.
 
Scottickes made a point about using a super non aggressive etch solution, which is why I used only simple green. I never got to try the the vinegar and soap. Maybe the vinegar will speed up the process.

Forgot to make the point of making sure the blade was scratch free. Scratches still show...
 
An unhardened blade, 400 grit or better belt finish, scratches are generally removed, but then you see all the 200 grit scratches you missed.

I always tumble before HT, then a little bit after to clean up the color. Tumbling only after HT, the wash will be more subtle and scratches won't be removed.

My media is used for D2 which is near stainless. If you tumble stainless in my system you might pick up some D2, causing possible future rust. I am not willing to tumble carbon in my system for the same reason. With those caveats, if you want to send me your blades I'll be happy to tumble them for you for the cost of return postage. If you have several blades they will need a little nut and bolt run through a hole somewhere to keep them from finding each other and assembling together (bizarre and frustrating behavior that happens quickly otherwise).

My experimentations with tumbling media has led me to using industrial media. Stones, bbs abrasive powders, sand ect haven't worked well.

I run wet using a rust inhibiting water based cutting oil for fast cutting and a smooth finish. I'll then sometimes run dry for the Chris Reeves stone wash look.
 
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