Tung oil vs. BLO

Tx Bass Tech

Tx Bass Tech

Joined
Dec 22, 2009
Messages
236
I'm getting ready to rehandle a hatchet and was thinking of using some Tung oil/citrus oil mix that I got from a shop near Austin. The mix is made by the Old Fashion Milk paint company. I did a little research and found this article comparing BLO and Tung oil. I thought some of you might find it interesting. I would love to hear your opinions if you have used both. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
 
Interesting Thanks for posting I use BLO because that's what I bought a long time ago and I don't think I will ever run out. If I do I will give Tung oil a try.
 
BLO is cheaper and easier to find than pure tung oil. I can't find pure tung oil within 50 miles of me. Cans labeled tung oil finish are not pure tung oil.
 
I have a metal container of BLO that my Dad had. It is still about half full...It must be 25 years old. This stuff goes a long way.

Tom
 
Tx Bass Tech said:
I'm getting ready to rehandle a hatchet and was thinking of using some Tung oil/citrus oil mix that I got from a shop near Austin. The mix is made by the Old Fashion Milk paint company. I did a little research and found this article comparing BLO and Tung oil. I thought some of you might find it interesting. I would love to hear your opinions if you have used both.
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That product is actually on my wish list at Amazon right now. I want to try it. If you try it please report back. It looks like a very good product to me.
 
My findings after using both is that the tung oil gave the wood a weird sticky shine that I didn't like at all. It also dried solid in the bottle. Both were not cool and I see no reason to use it again.
 
Tx Bass Tech said:
I'm getting ready to rehandle a hatchet and was thinking of using some Tung oil/citrus oil mix that I got from a shop near Austin. The mix is made by the Old Fashion Milk paint company. I did a little research and found this article comparing BLO and Tung oil. I thought some of you might find it interesting. I would love to hear your opinions if you have used both. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
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I have used both BLO and raw linseed oil. I prefer boiled because of the drying time. I have also used pure tung oil. It is superior to BLO for a weather proofing agent(as the article stated). Its much easier to produce a film on top of the wood surface with tung oil. Linseed oil is more of a preservative unless you go to great lengths with it to build a finish on the wood, and its not worth it.

I think the article should have compared both oils in there raw state to be unbiased. I would also like to point out that the USA government went with linseed oil over tung oil on gun stocks during WW2 because of the allergic reaction some folks had to tung oil. So its more than just a myth about allergies and tung oil. The part of the article that said linseed oil dries hard and brittle is a complete non-facter with its use.

They produce a different finish, look and feel to the wood.

Linseed soaks in more and bring out the character and changes the color of the wood.
Tung oil is much better as a water prof finish.

Personal preference really and you can always use both with BLO going on first. I think Square peg does that.
 
Square_peg said:
That product is actually on my wish list at Amazon right now. I want to try it. If you try it please report back. It looks like a very good product to me.
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I think Woodcrafters used to carry that company's products. Probably cheaper through Amazon though.
 
If you have a hardware store that carries Old Masters products you can get their 100% tung oil. I've never seen it on the shelf, but I'm sure you could get it ordered. The only Tung oil I've ever used is Formby's which turns out contains almost no tung oil.:confused:
 
garry3 said:
They produce a different finish, look and feel to the wood.

Linseed soaks in more and bring out the character and changes the color of the wood.
Tung oil is much better as a water prof finish.

Personal preference really and you can always use both with BLO going on first. I think Square peg does that.
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Indeed, I do that. I start with a couple coats of BLO because it soaks in better. I think it nourishes and protects the wood better than tung oil. With new hafts I'll often cut it with a little bit of mineral spirits to get it to soak in better. After 2-4 coats of BLO I switch to tung oil. I'm using some old Formby's Tung Oil Finish. Picked up 3 bottles at a yard sale for 25¢ apiece. It's old stuff - no UPC symbol on the cans. It's thickened a little but it still wipes on fine. I'd bet it's at least 30 years old to have no UPC. I use 2-4 coats of tung.

Tung oil forms a waterproof finish on the surface of the haft. But it doesn't look like it has varnish or polyurethane on it. It's a more natural look. And it leaves a noticeably gripper finish than BLO leaves.

Here's what it looks like.

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Tung oil lasts a lot longer than BLO, holds up to weather better, in my experience. I use it on all my wooden ax handles and knife grips.
 
The Chinese developed it ... but they reserved it for their Junk ... they did not use it on nice axes :D
 
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I prefer Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, it is linseed oil and other natural oils. I don't know that those other oils are, but I really like it.
 
Fox940 said:
Yes, I do the same. It helps give the finish a more subdued look which I like.
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I use Tru-oil on my self bows. I have never tried there wax. I will give it a go. I have went through all kinds of finishes and that tru-oil is hard to beat. I put on multiple coats then rub it down with rotten stone powder and bring it back up with a soft cotton cloth. Its hard to mess up with the stuff and its pretty durable also.
 
garry3 said:
I use Tru-oil on my self bows. I have never tried there wax. I will give it a go. I have went through all kinds of finishes and that tru-oil is hard to beat. I put on multiple coats then rub it down with rotten stone powder and bring it back up with a soft cotton cloth. Its hard to mess up with the stuff and its pretty durable also.
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I have never heard of your rotten stone powder technique, I will have to try that.

For tomahawk handles I don't wet sand, but I guess I probably could. On some stocks that I have refinished I like to put two or three coats on and then wet sand the wood,this fills and seals the grain and let the slurry dry. Then I apply several more coats of tru-oil using fine steel wool in between the coats then using a soft cotton cloth. After the final coat I use the wax to help subdue the glossy/varnishy finish that I don't care for. I really like the look after using the wax on everything I have used the tru-oil on.

Edit: I use the Stock Sheen and Conditioner before the wax applied by hand. Make sure to also use light coats with the Tru-oil so it doesn't run and it drys better as well. I learned the hard way and just apply with my finger and rub it in with the palm of my hand. Some people don't like to use steel wool, but I have never had any issues. I just make sure the oil is dry before using the steel wool. I then use a cotton cloth and make sure it is perfectly clean before the next coat. To be honest with my tomahawk handles I just use a couple coats along with some stain and then wax. It is nice relaxing, methodical work.
 
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Fox940 said:
I have never heard of your rotten stone powder technique, I will have to try that.

For tomahawk handles I don't wet sand, but I guess I probably could. On some stocks that I have refinished I like to put two or three coats on and then wet sand the wood,this fills and seals the grain and let the slurry dry. Then I apply several more coats of tru-oil using fine steel wool in between the coats then using a soft cotton cloth. After the final coat I use the wax to help subdue the glossy/varnishy finish that I don't care for. I really like the look after using the wax on everything I have used the tru-oil on.

Edit: I use the Stock Sheen and Conditioner before the wax applied by hand. Make sure to also use light coats with the Tru-oil so it doesn't run and it drys better as well. I learned the hard way and just apply with my finger and rub it in with the palm of my hand. Some people don't like to use steel wool, but I have never had any issues. I just make sure the oil is dry before using the steel wool. I then use a cotton cloth and make sure it is perfectly clean before the next coat. To be honest with my tomahawk handles I just use a couple coats along with some stain and then wax. It is nice relaxing, methodical work.
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I really want to give the wax a try. Sounds like its more to my liking. Even if I have to re-apply now and then. Does no good to just dull the finish because it comes back shiny with handling.

You make a good point on the light coats. Going to heavy or to soon between coats is about the only way I know to mess up with tru-oil. And I have done both.

The rotten stone is a very fine powder. I use a felt pad and mineral oil and just sprinkle some on the oiled pad.. It is not near as aggressive as steel wool. If I have a real problem and I need to level it out more I will use pumice powder first. It just removes less finish than steel wool does so I end up with a thicker finish.
If you follow it all up with a coat of pure carnauba wax(its hard) it will blind you on a sunny day. Not what I want on a bow but it probably has some applications.
 
Til recently I have been using Tung oil or so I thought. After reading this thread I learned that Formby's isn't really tung oil. Recently I switched to Tru-Oil and man is that stuff gold. I really really like it, especially when finished off with Ren wax. I have used the Birchwood and Casey wax which I do like but that Ren wax in my opinion is far superior.
 
rmbonham said:
Til recently I have been using Tung oil or so I thought. After reading this thread I learned that Formby's isn't really tung oil. Recently I switched to Tru-Oil and man is that stuff gold. I really really like it, especially when finished off with Ren wax. I have used the Birchwood and Casey wax which I do like but that Ren wax in my opinion is far superior.
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I may have misspoken when I said Formby's isn't tung oil. The way I interpret their MSDS, it looks like their base formula for their high gloss is 70% mineral spirits. Low gloss is 78%. Presumably the rest is tung oil?
 
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