Turks Head, Ito Wrap Question

G

gudspelr

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Jul 1, 2013
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I’ve had plans for some time now to try and make a kwaiken of sorts. I know at some point here, it’s going to happen.... Something I’ve struggled over in regards to the design is the handle treatment. I’ve gone back and forth on what material and could I incorporate a guard of some sort. I like how “clean” some can look with a really nice wood or even some of the synthetic choices for scales with no guard. But I also really like when some of you post up your REALLY impressive knives with handles that have the Ito (I think that’s correct?) wrap and the Turks head around the front.

I like that the Turks head acts as a guard but I’m wondering how it stays in place? I feel like that’s kind of a ridiculous question.... But if I understand it correctly, it’s something that’s braided around the front of the handle. What keeps it from moving forward towards the blade? I think some makers soak the handle wrap with epoxy-does that include the Turks head? Are those types of handles always soaked in epoxy or are some left natural? How do you completely soak it and not get epoxy forward of it (or at least visible)?

Thanks for any light you can shed on what is probably a really straightforward answer that I’m missing....


Jeremy
 
I’ve only done it once, but yes, I soaked it in epoxy, then squeezed out the extra with a rag....
 
Wrap is done tight then epoxy is lightly painted onto the wrap then usually squeezed out with a lint free cloth. If you soak it it always looks bad, looks soaked. But if you use just a little it will hold up forever and won’t even look wet. Use west systems or system 3 as the store bought stuff is terrible.

Tape off the blade and be real careful and voila no epoxy on the blade
 
After wrapping the handle the ito is carefully adjusted to get all spacing and tightness right. Then a thin and clear epoxy is very lightly brushed on. I use System Three Clear Coat. You only apply a light amount, and it will soak in almost immediately. It will look dry just a minute or so after you apply it. If it looks wet, take a piece of lint free cotton ( old tee-shirt), wrap it around the handle, and squeeze hard. Remove the cloth and discard it. Let the resin dry with the blade horizontal, rotating every 10-15 minutes until set ... to prevent any pooling/dripping. When cured The ito will look natural, but will be solidly in place and won't move. The trick is to use as little resin as necessary to make it stay in place and not feel like plastic.
 
Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it. I’ve never done a Turks head, but figure I should be able to learn it and hopefully not make it look terrible...

Jeremy
 
For me, the Turks head is a frustrating knot. I've only done a few (about to do another!), but like anything, practice makes perfect! I know of one maker who has his wife do them for him! ;)
You'll be surprised at how tight the Turks head knot can be, even without epoxy. The last step in making that knot is to tighten it all up, and it sort of locks in place wherever it is. Like everyone else on this thread, tho, I do highly recommend epoxying it in place, along with the ito wrap. Good luck, and show us some pics when you get it done!
 
Start by tying it on your fingers or on a broomstick. Transfer to the handle and start tightening. Go round and round until it is tight and smooth. Be careful not to put a twist in the ito when going around in both tying the knot and in tightening it. A trick is to glue the end of the ito on a popsicle stick. Make one side black with a marker. Make sure the other end is on the same side as the black ... with no twists ..., and always keep the black side out as you go around tying the knot. The stick also makes it easier to go over and under the bights.
 
I have done many Turkhead knots on that style of blade.
I actually put this video on each and every time I tie one just to keep myself on track.

When it comes to using epoxy, I too use System 3 clear coat, but I use a toothbrush and dab on the epoxy until it is super saturated. I soak it good so it will penetrate all the way through the cord underwrap, if I use one, so it will also pass through the holes in the tang so both side are glued together.

I let it soak several minutes and then use a clean terry clot towel and use it to squeeze gently the epoxy out. I set it down and see if it weeps any more epoxy. Then I repeat a coat of epoxy and let sit again and squeeze out again.

Then I hang it from the tip of the blade and stay near to blot off any epoxy for awhile, when it stops weeping epoxy I give it another go with the terry cloth.

Now the cord is completely impregnated down to the tang.

Check every 30 minutes for then next few hours and use the cloth as needed.

Here is what it looks like when it is done.
vCrUkJy.jpg


 
I really appreciate all the great information and advice in this thread. I’ll be checking out that video for sure.

Jeremy
 
Thanks Adam, I was hoping you would chime in. You are the person I thought to recommending Gerry looking up when this question came up.
A seen in your photo, doing the Turk's Head in round cord is much easier than doing it in flat ito.
 
would this turksknot be stable if I epoxy it with west systems? should I rough sand the micarta underneath first
0Ni2UM1.jpg
 
The resin should lock it down tight. You only use a very small amount of thin type resin. Clearcoat or other flowing type resin is what works best.
 
You've got to use enough that you are SURE that it got all the way down to the base material.

I recently did a simple wrap on my expandable baton for work and I didn't use enough epoxy. Now it's securely glued down at one place but lose in another. Super annoying. I'm gonna have to do it over.
 
I used Clear coat, scrubbed it in with a toothbrush, then squeezed gently with a t-shirt, repearted 3-4 times, and let it dry.
Then sanded the handle with 220 sandpaper, as it was too smooth and slick. Now has a good grip to the handle, and the guard seems stable. I am happy with it.
OiqvTxj.jpg
 
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