Tusker for bushcraft?

S

Stykbowman

Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
15
I'm in need of a good woods knife for general camp, hunting, and bushcraft use. How would a 5" Tusker with spearpoint be for this type of application. Would there be any advantage or disadvantage going with a 5" Big Boar Tusker for these uses? Would a Mini Tusker or Polaris be better suited for this? Thanks.
 
While Scott will be able to offer more of an answer, I know that j_williams here on bladeforums used to use a 5 inch regular Tusker as his go to woods blade. He also has his own forum on a well known bushcraft site because he does a lot of leather work, mostly for Iz Turley's blades. On that bushcraft site, if you search for Gossman, you can find a lot of posts by him about how much he liked his Tusker, which I believe also had a guard.

Speaking hypothetically, I think the Big Boar Tusker would still do everything you wanted, but it might be a bit more tedious as you'd be working with a larger thicker knife, so the finer work might be more tasking. On the other hand, with a Mini-tusker or Polaris, they'd both be a bit more nimble for finer work, but would't process wood as well ast the standard Tusker.

Hopefully some part of this is helpful.
 
Hi,

I think Colin's given a very good answer. Thicker isn't always better; I'd say if your mostly going to do heavy duty wood processing a big knife is fine, if you're thinking about feather sticks, whittling and finer work thinner is generally better. I have a PSK Sr, use it all the time and took it on the recent Amazon trip with Esee, works really well. If you want to know anything specific about it leave a question or drop me a PM.

So I'd say, think about what you're realistically going to be using the knife for most and ask Scott what he'd recommend, he's always very helpful and works with the purchaser to make sure they get the knife they want; so it gets used! Most knives have to compromise somewhere along the line.

I'd emphasis that Scott's knives are meant to be used, I think it's fair to say the thing that makes Scott happy is seeing and hearing about them in the field! I'm sure you'll be delighted with one of his knives.

hth, John
 
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I think the best all around size is a 5 inch blade. May be alittle big as a hunting knife but will work. I carry two knives for hunting. A UNK size for gutting and skinning and a 4 1/2" to 5" for the heavy work like splitting the pelvic bone and cutting up into the breastbone. For general woods use, the 5" would get everything done with the exception of chopping. You can chop using a baton if need be.
Scott
 
Deer creek might fit the bill too. Just got back from an overnight in the mountains, and all I brought for wood duty was a sawvivor and my deer creek. It's pretty compact yet beefy for battoning. I was smashing right through knots with mine.
 
dcycleman said:
Deer creek might fit the bill too. Just got back from an overnight in the mountains, and all I brought for wood duty was a sawvivor and my deer creek. It's pretty compact yet beefy for battoning. I was smashing right through knots with mine.
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So what is your impression of A2 steel?
Scott
 
Seems good, after using it for the weekend, it is still quite sharp. I forced a patina on it using vinegar soaked paper towels for about an hour, worked pretty good. It rained quite a bit over night and into the morning, everything was damp to some degree. With the patina, rust didn't seem to be an issue, just oiled it up when i got back. As far as the knife goes, I like the full grip that the scales gave (not too thin and very ergonomic) the grind allowed thin curls to be made with no edge rolling or chipping during heavy batoning. Two thumbs up!
 
dcycleman said:
Seems good, after using it for the weekend, it is still quite sharp. I forced a patina on it using vinegar soaked paper towels for about an hour, worked pretty good. It rained quite a bit over night and into the morning, everything was damp to some degree. With the patina, rust didn't seem to be an issue, just oiled it up when i got back. As far as the knife goes, I like the full grip that the scales gave (not too thin and very ergonomic) the grind allowed thin curls to be made with no edge rolling or chipping during heavy batoning. Two thumbs up!
Click to expand...

Outstanding! :thumbup: BTW, got the MO, thanks.
Scott
 
Scott,

What Tusker configuration would you recommend for the mentioned purposes? I sure like the look of the guard and a spearpoint but would like something to handle most any task. Anyway, I'd be interested in your recommendations from prommel to tip. Thank you.

Alan
 
Stykbowman said:
Scott,

What Tusker configuration would you recommend for the mentioned purposes? I sure like the look of the guard and a spearpoint but would like something to handle most any task. Anyway, I'd be interested in your recommendations from prommel to tip. Thank you.

Alan
Click to expand...

I left you some links in your visitor's message area that might be useful.
 
Stykbowman said:
Scott,

What Tusker configuration would you recommend for the mentioned purposes? I sure like the look of the guard and a spearpoint but would like something to handle most any task. Anyway, I'd be interested in your recommendations from prommel to tip. Thank you.

Alan
Click to expand...

Alan, the spearpoint is a good all around blade shape for bushcraft and hunting. As far as the guard, I personally prefer guardless but it does add a bit of security keeping your finger from slipping forward. The finger cutout is deep enough without the guard so the added guard is up to you. It adds about 3/8" length to the finger cutout. Thickness at 3/16" is stout enough to handle heavy work and my grind/edge combo allows for fine work in that thickness. Micarta is the best in durability but will do wood if you prefer that. Cost is another factor. Add ons like the guard increase cost, same with some exotic woods.
Bottom line is choose what you like in a knife and I will take it from there.
Scott
 
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