Tutorial request.

dsgibbs1

dsgibbs1

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
325
I was wondering if there is a tutorial about canister welding here. If so, can someone please point it out to me? Please and thanks..
 
I was wondering if you can use a Little Giant to do it or if I need a press. i have access to the afore mentioned power hammer. I do not have a press.. I was looking for the processes involved and if it can be done with a hammer. Thanks..
 
Are you doing powder or stacked billet? The powder billet is easier in a press due to a little more control. A stacked billet is easy to do in a little giant. How big is your hammer and how big is the billet going to be. That will determine if it can be done in the hammer. The main thing is work all sides evenly even the top and bottom if possible. This is were the press really comes in handy. I just did a powder/chainsaw billet but did not take any pics.
 
I agree with Chuck, a stacked billet should be fine depending on the lay up. A powder billet will give you grief because you really need to forge all four sides at the same time other wise as you forge the top and bottom the sides will bulge out so you will just keep chasing the bulge in the can and if you have a intricate pattern you will just mess it all up.
 
I've done powder canisters with a hammer. You just need to be VERY careful and forge as evenly as possible. When the sides start to bulge, rotate 90 degrees and work them back down, etc, etc, etc until it solidifies. then work carefully and keep it square and you'll be just fine.

-d
 
I will be using a 100# Little Giant. It seems like it is alot of trouble to do without a press. I can build a press. I have the stuff, i.e. metal and tools. Whats the best pump size? As for the reason I am asking. Look at the recent post, iirc, Nick Wheeler. The ball bearing knife. That knife was awesome. I wanted to make something different besides what I have been up to.. Thanks for the information. Looks like a project is in order for the spring time.
 
If I had a choice between a hammer and press I would go with a press. Luckily I do not have to make that choice. A hundred pounder is plenty heavy enough to forge a canister. The biggest thing is try to do the whole can side at once. Do not take little bites. Once the can is solid then you can go to town. Still keep it hot and work judiciously. Ball bearings make an interesting pattern and there are a number of ways to do it. Here is one I did several years ago.
acr_gir_coffin_1280.preview.jpg
 
Is that picture meant to encourage or discourage? Just kidding. That is what I want just not that spread out. I want the bearings to be more pronounced like the afore mentioned one. Your knife is awesome, and I would love to make one as nice. Till I can. I think I will just keep pounding the simple steels. Thanks for the replies.
 
Actually the tighter pattern seems a bit easier to control. What you do is make up a canister that is just big enough to fit your materials. What you need is a thin piece of core material, A friend of mine uses O-1. You can use whatever you have on hand. It is normally 1/8th or less and needs to fit across the width of your container. Now put a layer of bearings on the bottom then the plate then another layer of bearings. Pack them is as tight as possible but not stacked too much. A single layer is best. You can make several layers with a plate in between but you want the bearings to hold up shape. Once the box is full of bearings and plate material fill the voids with powder. Make sure you tap it in and get as much as the can will hold and then a little more. I use the press to really pack in the powder. Now weld on the lid and handle. Make sure you take note of the orientation of the plates. Now get it hot. Let it soak a good 30 minutes AFTER the box takes on the same color as the inside of the forge. Then hammer it out on with the flats of the plates horizontal in the can. Work slowly at first until you feel it get solid. Then forge evenly. The more you have to draw out the billet the more distortion you will get on the bearings. So if you start with a box just large enough to hold one layer of bearings, one plate and one more layer of bearings it will give you the most defined pattern. I have never done this procedure but that its how it was explained to me. God luck and give it a try.
 
I was planning on getting some 1084 from Kelly Cupples and useing 52100 bearings. Heat the crap of the canister and forge it into a bar. I was planning on taking some square tubing and cutting it in half and filling the bottom quarter with powder and layering bearings on top then more powder. Lay the top on and weld tight. Turn on end and pack powder till no more will fit. Stick a piece of paper in and weld the final end shut. I was then gonna use the forge and heat.. I had read that a soak of 10 minutes would work. I think I will let it sit half an hour or so. I will have to wait till after Christmas to try. I will post the results.
 
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I bought Blade's Guide to Making Knives just for that article.

It is so full of editing mistakes with regard to material size and other details that pissed me off so much that I tossed it.

If you can get a copy at the library for free, it will give you the basic idea.
but if you are relying on it to give you a detailed how to, forget it.
http://www.amazon.com/Blades-Guide-Making-Knives-Kertzman/dp/0896892409


I do like Bruce Bumps WIP threads.
I find I have learned more from them than any other source.
http://knifedogs.com/forumdisplay.php?60-Bruce-Bump-Knives

There are videos
Mosaic Damascus - Chad Nichols
 
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Cool video. I watched it and have now figured that I may be out classed at the current time. I am however, up to the challenge. Or will be in the spring.
 
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