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Tutorials of all kinds
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like just about any organic material, dry slowly in a moderately low humidity environment until mostly dry, then store in a low humidity environment until dry and stable.
i don't know about sealing it, so if you got it too dry and moved a piece into a higher humidity area/application i would expect to see some movement anyway, but that's where i'd have to wait for somebody with more experience to chime in.
i would count it a plus that bone is generally a pretty low moisture material to begin with.
i don't know about sealing it, so if you got it too dry and moved a piece into a higher humidity area/application i would expect to see some movement anyway, but that's where i'd have to wait for somebody with more experience to chime in.
i would count it a plus that bone is generally a pretty low moisture material to begin with.
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Someone posted a tutorial on this very section of the forums not to long ago. It might have been Bill (i think).
*edit* unless he was dying antler...
*edit* unless he was dying antler...
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Well Vern -
It's been discussed here (do a search) and other places before and is no big secret - the method I use (and Ray Richard IIRC) is soak it in Fiebing's leather dye - experiment with various colors and mixes of colors....You can also wrap it in a cloth soaked in dye or wipe on, let dry, and rub off the excess. Others have also used the RIT cold water with decent success.
If you look through the various Galleries on my website http://www.wrtcleather.com you'll see various examples of dyed bones handles I've done, mostly deer leg bone.
BTW - forums are for voluntarily sharing and sometimes folks get busy or don't have a good or immediate answer - not getting an answer or at least not getting one right away usually has nothing to do with not wanting to pass it on. And those of us who do offer advice are doing it for free even when it costs us time, etc. so I'd be aware of "making demands" or suggesting ulterior motives.
Folks today have it much easier when it comes to obtaining info - when I first started 50 years ago and well into the late 1980's getting advice meant doing the research in libraries (often little to no info was available) or personally contacting a maker or makers - some who were willing to share, but others weren't and some still aren't always willing to give it away free, especially when it's a proprietary method that took them sometimes years to work out - IMO a valid and reasonable situation......
It's been discussed here (do a search) and other places before and is no big secret - the method I use (and Ray Richard IIRC) is soak it in Fiebing's leather dye - experiment with various colors and mixes of colors....You can also wrap it in a cloth soaked in dye or wipe on, let dry, and rub off the excess. Others have also used the RIT cold water with decent success.
If you look through the various Galleries on my website http://www.wrtcleather.com you'll see various examples of dyed bones handles I've done, mostly deer leg bone.
BTW - forums are for voluntarily sharing and sometimes folks get busy or don't have a good or immediate answer - not getting an answer or at least not getting one right away usually has nothing to do with not wanting to pass it on. And those of us who do offer advice are doing it for free even when it costs us time, etc. so I'd be aware of "making demands" or suggesting ulterior motives.
Folks today have it much easier when it comes to obtaining info - when I first started 50 years ago and well into the late 1980's getting advice meant doing the research in libraries (often little to no info was available) or personally contacting a maker or makers - some who were willing to share, but others weren't and some still aren't always willing to give it away free, especially when it's a proprietary method that took them sometimes years to work out - IMO a valid and reasonable situation......
I have used Rit dye with moderate success. I add a couple table spoons of white vinegar as well as denatured alcohol (It seems to help with penetration).
I put the dye solution with the bone into a mason jar and "cook" it using a double boiler so it doesn't get too cooked.
The lid is applied a few minutes after the dye solution comes to a boil. I leave it under vacuum for a couple days (frequenly aggitating the jar) then break the seal to room pressure for a couple more days for better pentration.
The bone is removed from the solution where I scrape the "salts" off, rinse and allow to dry. I can use the solution a couple three days before needing to make a fresh solution.
I've only done black so far but imagine that this would work for other colors. Any input to improve this process would be appreciated.
Jim L.
I put the dye solution with the bone into a mason jar and "cook" it using a double boiler so it doesn't get too cooked.
The lid is applied a few minutes after the dye solution comes to a boil. I leave it under vacuum for a couple days (frequenly aggitating the jar) then break the seal to room pressure for a couple more days for better pentration.
The bone is removed from the solution where I scrape the "salts" off, rinse and allow to dry. I can use the solution a couple three days before needing to make a fresh solution.
I've only done black so far but imagine that this would work for other colors. Any input to improve this process would be appreciated.
Jim L.
