Tweaking a new Buck 303

[knarfeng]

I carried a Camillus-made Buck 303 daily for over a decade. and loved it. I bought a 1997 Buck-made 303 with flat ground blades a few years ago. Liked that one, too. Recently, I've been carrying a current design Buck 301, and have become enamored of the "edge 2000" modified hollow grind blade design. For my usage, it just cuts better than any other blade profile. But, the 301 is a tad large for some occasions. I decided I needed a new 303. Specifically, I needed one with black Valox covers. The quintessential Buck 303.

Since I mostly hang my hat in Traditional, I have a lot of knives from a lot of manufacturers, so when I got the 303, I found that I wanted to tweak it a bit. I thought the tweaks might be of interest in the Buck Forum. So here I am.

1. Loosen up the blades. The Sheepsfoot was a bit sticky. I had to push it into the open position. I washed the knife in the sink under flowing water with dish soap. I opened and closed the blades repeatedly. Then I rinsed it. First in water, then isopropyl alcohol, then WD-40, then added mineral oil. All blades open and close exactly right. spring strength about a 4 if you rank an SAK as a 5.

2. It had some parts that needed rounded edges. The ends of the springs were not rounded. They were sharp to my fingers. I used a Sharpmaker triangular stone to round them a bit. Now they don't bite.

3. In the closed position, one of the springs was a bit proud of the others. I opened the blade resting on that spring so that the spring edges were exposed, then I used a Sharpmaker stone to slightly round the exposed edge. Now, although the spring is still a bit proud, it is not noticeable unless I focus on it.

All done. Took me about an hour. Love the knife. And I do like it better than the Camillus-made or the '97.

 

[pholder]

great looking trio you have there. my favorite of all my Buck knives is the 303. i do have a 301 which is a bit large for my edc but makes for a heck of a yard knife on the weekend. i recently purchased a 309 to travel with on checked in luggage for air travel. pleasantly suprised how useful it is and i didn't feel under knifed at all. i purchased a 303 back in 2000 yet didn't start to carry it until last year. nothing seems to kick it out of my pocket except the new 303 i purchased last week. the new one was a bit rougher out of the box but the blades were tighter than the first one, blades are very sharp but it has some sharp edges here and there. no complaints, i use these every day at whatever comes my way with no let down. funny as i have more expensive traditionals but these just do it for me. will always carry a buck 303, grandpa always carried one never let him down. i Am part of the Buck family
thanks for listening, troy

 

[dpowers311]

Why isopropyl alcohol? Does it help evaporate the water. I like the long nail mark on the top one.

Dave

 

[Rupestris]

With that much time under your belt with the full flat grind, I'd love to hear your opinion of the newer hollow grind after some long term use and sharpening.

The older, flat ground is more aesthetically pleasing but I suppose form should follow function.

Thanks for the post and enjoy the new Buck :thumbup:.

 

[knarfeng]

Why isopropyl alcohol? Does it help evaporate the water. I like the long nail mark on the top one.

Dave

The alcohol dilutes, then displaces the water. Then the alcohol evaporates. I just speeds up the drying process and removes any remaining water from between springs etc.

That's the Camillus-made Buck with the long nail nick.

 

[knarfeng]

With that much time under your belt with the full flat grind, I'd love to hear your opinion of the newer hollow grind after some long term use and sharpening.

The older, flat ground is more aesthetically pleasing but I suppose form should follow function.

Thanks for the post and enjoy the new Buck :thumbup:.

I can already say from using the 301. The new grind works better for cutting most things. Doesn't work well for peeling apples. But works like a champ for everything else.

 

[David Martin]

Frank, thank you for this write up. In your photo the top 303's sheep foot blade rests higher than the others. Did you notice this difference when you went to the newer models?
I think Buck's edge 2000 cuts better as well. DM

 

[knarfeng]

Hi David,
I did notice that. Back when I carried it every day, I'd never really considered the sheepsfoot on that old 303 to be bothersomely high. But I have noticed the lower profile on the new models, and I do appreciate it. Like everything else on the 301/303 designs, Buck optimized it.

What I like even better about the three spring designs, is that because the sheepsfoot is not crinked in order to sit on the second spring, it comes straight out when opened. I find this gives better control when I cut with it. The sheepsfoot is one of my most used blades.

I have a LOT of stockman knives from various manufactures. The Buck 301/303s are still my favorites.

 

[David Martin]

Ok, thanks. DM

 

[DocT]

I can already say from using the 301. The new grind works better for cutting most things. Doesn't work well for peeling apples. But works like a champ for everything else.

This is my experience, too. The Edge 2000 design cuts a lot of things better than the FFG but apples and tomatoes are the exceptions. I really like the knife on the top. That is like my old 301 and 303 I left back at home.

 

[Vaporstang]

So is the mineral oil your final lube? or do you follow with a different lube such as machine oil?

 

[MercyfulfateXX]

Frank, nice write up Sir! I have a few 303s and love them and the edge 2k.

 

[DocT]

I have been using Vaseline for lube, lately. It is simply mineral oil and parafin. It is non-toxic and stays with the knife better than plain mineral oil. I discovered this by accident. I live in a very high humidity environment near the sea and carbon steel rusts like crazy, here. I used to use mineral oil to coat and lube my knives as I do not want to ingest toxic lubes with my food. It worked but did not stay with the knife long. One day I found an old jar of Vaseline, many years forgotten in the back of the cabinet. I put some of that on one of my carbon blades and it worked so well, I started using it on all of my knives, even to lube the pivots.

 

[knarfeng]

So is the mineral oil your final lube? or do you follow with a different lube such as machine oil?

Sorry. Missed that question. I just use mineral oil. I use it because it is more stable than some of the other lubricants out there. Doesn't oxidize. Doesn't get gummy.

 

[pinnah]

I can already say from using the 301. The new grind works better for cutting most things. Doesn't work well for peeling apples. But works like a champ for everything else.

This is my experience, too. The Edge 2000 design cuts a lot of things better than the FFG but apples and tomatoes are the exceptions. I really like the knife on the top. That is like my old 301 and 303 I left back at home.

I find it useful to distinguish between different kinds of cutting tasks:
Cutting - material that self-seperate like meat and rope
Slicing - material that does not self-seperate like potatoes, apples, and cardboard
Shaving - making wood curls

I find I prefer different grinds for these different tasks:
Cutting - Hollow grind (particularly Buck's)
Slicing - full flat grind (or thin, full height convex)
Shaving - thick convex (or Buck's old semi-hollow grind)

I was just contemplating this last night as I was deboning a steak before putting it on the grill and how happy I was that I had my 110 in my rear pocket. Cuts meat like a light sabre and will use it in a few minutes to make left-over steak and eggs for the kids in a bit. But I'll reach for different blades for potatoes or fire making. Horses for courses.

Great write up Frank. I've found that tuning up production knives for better hand feel is often needed. I often use wet/dry paper. I've done this with Bucks and several other brands. Glad you've found a carry that works well for you.