- Joined
- Apr 19, 2005
- Messages
- 5,533
After holding the one blade 301 solitare, I was considering other knives shown on theTraditional forum. Several other companies had two blade knives with a clip and warcliff blade. Since I have not 'spayed', an animal in a number of years and seldom used a spey blade I then considered, we ought to have a two blade 301 and 303, sans spey blade.
So I shipped off a Dymondwood 301 and 303 to Triple R and asked the spey blade be removed. Let me tell you now that Leroy shows no favorites, except maybe ITE, when he goes and knocks on the shop door. After a year in line I received my two blade 301 and 303 back.
Here is a bottom shot with a regular 301 on the left, my two blade in the middle and a single blade Solitare on right.
Triple R also trimmed down the Buck Sheepsfoot blade, to look somewhat like a warcliff blade. Modified blade on left, normal on right. The nail nic limits what you are able to take off, in the effort to trim the end to a warcliff point.
After receiving the knives I felt the blade kicks could be shortened to give the knife a cleaner, more linear look. So, I carefully ground and polished them myself. I carefully watched the closed blade depth, so as not to bottom out. I tried to go to the level that the nail nic was just a hair above the liner edge.
After photographing these pictures, I now think the main clip blade could be lowered so very slightly to even imporve the line somemore. So I will do that and call it done. I really like the width of these knives. I hope someone from Buck will consider this alternative, hey maybe I need to send one to Joe to carry around.....
I may get excited and put some burl wood or jigged bone scales on these and carry one of them proudly as "exclusive" models.....
300Bucks
PS Yes, I did lower the clip blades. I kept the nics above the liners, The top of the curve of the speycliff blade and the top of the clip angle were almost level. Will add photo.
Photos Added:
Here is 301 and 303, got a good level on the 303 but stopped with the 301. I may can go down level but need to get a strong light and look down in blade well to check situation out.
Here is a end of of the same. Tweaking the kicks on the blades lowers the "push" from the angles in the palm of your hand. This is hand fitting work, a factory would have to charge a bunch for this if they tried it on every knife.
So I shipped off a Dymondwood 301 and 303 to Triple R and asked the spey blade be removed. Let me tell you now that Leroy shows no favorites, except maybe ITE, when he goes and knocks on the shop door. After a year in line I received my two blade 301 and 303 back.
Here is a bottom shot with a regular 301 on the left, my two blade in the middle and a single blade Solitare on right.
Triple R also trimmed down the Buck Sheepsfoot blade, to look somewhat like a warcliff blade. Modified blade on left, normal on right. The nail nic limits what you are able to take off, in the effort to trim the end to a warcliff point.
After receiving the knives I felt the blade kicks could be shortened to give the knife a cleaner, more linear look. So, I carefully ground and polished them myself. I carefully watched the closed blade depth, so as not to bottom out. I tried to go to the level that the nail nic was just a hair above the liner edge.
After photographing these pictures, I now think the main clip blade could be lowered so very slightly to even imporve the line somemore. So I will do that and call it done. I really like the width of these knives. I hope someone from Buck will consider this alternative, hey maybe I need to send one to Joe to carry around.....
I may get excited and put some burl wood or jigged bone scales on these and carry one of them proudly as "exclusive" models.....
300Bucks
PS Yes, I did lower the clip blades. I kept the nics above the liners, The top of the curve of the speycliff blade and the top of the clip angle were almost level. Will add photo.
Photos Added:
Here is 301 and 303, got a good level on the 303 but stopped with the 301. I may can go down level but need to get a strong light and look down in blade well to check situation out.
Here is a end of of the same. Tweaking the kicks on the blades lowers the "push" from the angles in the palm of your hand. This is hand fitting work, a factory would have to charge a bunch for this if they tried it on every knife.
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