Two good, blems, shawl and more for 5/4

[Yangdu]

Two good

Beautifully done 15.5 inch 17 ounce villager Utility Knife by Kumar. Satisal wood handle. White metal fittings. Red leather top quality scabbard. $128. *SOLD*

18 inch 24 ounce Chainpuri by Purna. Satisal wood handle. Great work by bull headed Kami. $125.

Blems

17.5 inch 32 ounce Ang Khola by Ram Kumar. Epoxy fix crack on horn handle. $90. *SOLD*

20 inch 31 ounce Sirupati by Kumar. Few hairline crack on horn handle. $95.

18 inch 28 ounce WWII by Ram Kumar. Hairline crack on horn handle and slight loose sheath. $85.

15 inch 20 ounce BAS by Ram Kumar. Few grain mark on horn handle. 99 near perfect Knife. Awesome investment for first time HI Khukuri collector at $95. *SOLD*

Great mother's day gift items

Water Pashmina Shawl #5
$25

Water Pashmina Shawl #6
$25

Water Pashmina Shawl #7
$25

More

6 inch 1 ounce Grand-baby Hasiya from Manakamana region. Wood handle and sheath. $20. *SOLD*

6 1/4 inch 1 ounce Dharan Kakag Katne. Sisau wood handle. $18.

7 inch 2 ounce Dhankute baby Haiya. Horn handle. $22.

Cotton God Eye Jola for day hike at $25.

Email to himimp@aol.com to get any or all
First come first served
Have a pleasant weekend!

 

[Yangdu]

Today's healthy lunch by Kanchhi

 

[Crowlish]

Email sent for 17.5 AK

 

[cul4u01]

Awesome stuff today! Newbie's, here's your chance to expand your collection.

The KVUK, and Purna Chainpuri are my choices, I'm digging those hasiyas too!

 

[ndoghouse]

Mmmmm! Paratha! I like methi seeds in mine. Makin me hungry Aunti.
Love that red sheath Kumar villager

 

[Tad26]

Email sent for Chainpuri.

 

[dvancleve]

Email/PP sent for “18 inch 28 ounce WWII by Ram Kumar. Hairline crack on horn handle and slight loose sheath. $85.”

 

[EricTheRedBeard]

Email sent for "18 inch 24 ounce Chainpuri by Purna. Satisal wood handle. Great work by bull headed Kami. $125."

 

[ndoghouse]

Grats Eric! If you like the Chitlangi you will like the Chanipuri. Purna makes a superb blade too!

 

[EricTheRedBeard]

I decided to get a couple villagers.

 

[dvancleve]

Email/PP sent for “18 inch 28 ounce WWII by Ram Kumar. Hairline crack on horn handle and slight loose sheath. $85.”

Update: email received from Yangdu, shipping out Monday

So, what (if anything) should be done about hairline cracks in horn? I was thinking either cyanoacrylate or clear epoxy, carefully applied. It is easy to make a mess with CA, but it will probably get into the cracks better. What sort of sanding/polishing will match the original horn finish? Is there something better than mineral oil to condition the horn?

“Slightly loose sheath”, I suppose if the knife doesn’t easily fall out it is fine. If it does come out too easily, how can I get things snugged up a bit?

Thanks, Doug

 

[Bawanna]

For matching the horn, I just use fine sandpaper and then a buffer wheel, she'll shine right up purty.

I usually put some painters tape both sides of the crack to prevent the glue or epoxy from going where I don't want it too. I just use super glue but liquid acraglas or similar works too.

Ndog did a thread on how to tighten a sheath, I have one I'm working on myself. It just involves pulling the leather out of the top and adding material, then gluing the leather back down.
I'm using popcicle sticks, 2 so far and it's still a bit loose, pondering what else to do to improve it.

 

[davidf99]

dvancleve:

If the hairline cracks seem superficial maybe do nothing at all, or soak handle in mineral oil, which sometimes causes slight swelling that closes very fine cracks. Beyond that, use epoxy if the cracks are wide enough to get it inside, or superglue if the cracks are too fine for epoxy. As Bawanna says, apply painter's tape to minimize cleanup afterward. If you do get too much superglue or epoxy spilling over, remove as much as possible before it sets, and afterward you can sand down any excess to match the polish of the surrounding handle. Superglue polishes up really well.

Here's a trick that sometimes works for a too-loose or too-tight sheath. Most HI sheaths have two pockets for the small blades (karda and chakma). If the sheath is too tight, try removing the small blades to provide more "breathing room" for the main compartment. If the sheath is too loose, try jamming in the small blades or replacing them with thicker blades. The karda and chakma are traditional but mostly optional for practical purposes. They can be replaced with other implements, or with properly shaped pieces of wood if you want to fine-tune the tightness of the main part of the sheath. One benefit of this trick is that you can try it easily, and if it doesn't work you can move on to the more sophisticated methods.

 

[dvancleve]

Thanks guys, just gotta wait until it shows up now

I wasn’t sure what to try first, was pretty sure I wanted longer than 15” and not crazy heavy. An M43 might have been my first choice, but only 85 bucks...

Doug

 

[ndoghouse]

Do this:
I dont really glue much but just tack the stuff down. Once its folded back into position and sets in with use then it will stay just fine. I notice the blade is retained at the thickest part of the spine so look to do the mods right there. Mr.B if you have to use two popsicle sticks to tighten it then you are prolly in the wrong spot. Try filling in at the spine.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-to-fix-a-loose-fitting-scabbard-sheath.1137621/

 

[dvancleve]

Look what the USPS brought me today (Ram Kumar WWII)

Just over 28oz. and about 18.5” tip of blade to top tip of handle. I have nothing to compare it to, so I’m not really sure what constitutes a “slightly loose sheath”. If I just turn this upside down, it won’t fall out. If I shake it, it probably will, but I haven’t pressed my luck on that because I’d like to keep all of my toes. There are some faint cracks in the horn, I think I’ll probably just try rigging something up to soak it in mineral oil for a few days and see what happens. Unless some other kind of oil might be better, raw tung oil maybe? I suppose that might make any kind of super glue or epoxy not want to stick though...

Doug

 

[cul4u01]

Fill mason jar with Mineral oil, and just put the handle in it. Let it soak, longer the better. I find that a hot garage or somewhere where there is heat, makes the horn/wood, soak it up faster. Hooflex works too! But use sparingly, a little goes a long way.

 

[Bawanna]

I use a plastic water bottle with the top cut off. If you feel you need any gluing, do that first.

Your right, after the oil bath, glue won't stick none too good. But you probably won't need the glue.
If you use Tung or Linseed you'll want to thin it way down. Mineral oil is the ticket or the hoof flex Cul mentioned.

 

[Bookie]

Guys, after working with horn for almost 50 years, I've learned a few facts. Horn is nothing but a specialized hair. If you have a crack, it will grow on you over time. Sometimes horn can be sanded or scraped enough to eliminate the crack, then polished back to shiny without being too noticeable. This is the best repair. Sometimes ye Crazy Glue or equivalent will also do the trick. This repair can be polished out successfully, usually, but may not last over the years. It simply dries out and loses it's adherence properties. Soaking in oil will slow the crack from enlarging, but not completely, and one just cain't go around in life keeping that beloved khuk sitting in a coffee can of oil all the time.

Bees wax is what many of us horners use to protect the horn from cracking and moths. Yes, moths. You keep your khuk in a drawer for long periods of time, or even have it hanging as a wall display for long periods of time, do not be surprised one day if you pick up your khuk and find pits on the un-exposed side of the handle. They were chewed there by hungry, small, winged critters that definitely deserve to be squashed after chowing down on your $700 antique mapped powder horn or fav KLVUK.

 

[EricTheRedBeard]

Look what the USPS brought me today (Ram Kumar WWII)

Just over 28oz. and about 18.5” tip of blade to top tip of handle. I have nothing to compare it to, so I’m not really sure what constitutes a “slightly loose sheath”. If I just turn this upside down, it won’t fall out. If I shake it, it probably will, but I haven’t pressed my luck on that because I’d like to keep all of my toes. There are some faint cracks in the horn, I think I’ll probably just try rigging something up to soak it in mineral oil for a few days and see what happens. Unless some other kind of oil might be better, raw tung oil maybe? I suppose that might make any kind of super glue or epoxy not want to stick though...

Doug

That is a steal at $85. Thanks for posting pics. The knife looks awesome!