Two new ones (with photo))

I

ICS

Joined
Feb 4, 2015
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154
Haven't visited for a while so I thought some of you might be interested in a couple of new ones I am in the process of grinding. The one on the left is a 1" chisel and the one on the right is a full banana grind. They will both cut sfftwood, poplar and the like. Will post more as I finish them if anyone is interested. Cheers, ICS

24fa7dbe28ba6e0780669b5c6f2dabcf.jpg
 
Considering the two heads (and their hafts?) to otherwise be absolutely identical I'd love to hear back on which grind performed better and by how much.
 
Square_peg said:
What sort of grinder do you use?
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Square peg, I only use two grinding tools when I prepare a racing axe, the first is a 4" angle grinder and the second is a 3 foot linisher with 4" wide belts. If you would like more info on the setup, I would be happy to explain or supply a photo or two. The two heads in the photo have only seen these two grinders, it is now time for some finer sanding and lots of stone work. ICS
 
300Six said:
Considering the two heads (and their hafts?) to otherwise be absolutely identical I'd love to hear back on which grind performed better and by how much.
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300six, considering that both axes are 12 degrees and flat ground to the edge, they will both perform well in the same timber. The difference being the lift and drag properties of each and it comes ultimately down to personal preference of the axe men I build them for. I went into the science of chopping many years ago and you would be amazed at how changing one aspect ever so slightly can make such a difference in performance. It is all about balancing things to ultimately get something together that gets the job done and I can tell you there is nothing more satisfying than seeing one of your axes win a 15" standing block world title in the arena at the Sydney Royal Show. Regards, ICS
 
Chignecto Woodsman said:
Nice. I would like to read a bit about the different angles used in each type of wood. or anything you'd like to share really.
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CW, would be happy to supply any info. I have seen your comments in a few threads and you have obviously researched the subject pretty well. Noting that the only part of an axe that cuts is the edge, the first important thing to get right is the edge profile and if you think about it, a perfect curve is a really good place to start. I grind that on first, then set about making everything else work towards making the edge cut as smoothly and efficiently as I can. Any specific questions ?, I would be happy to share my thoughts and experiences. ICS
 
Those axes are truly beautiful.

I'd imagine that 12 dps edges can do some serious damage. Can you share the kind of steel you use and Rc of the edge?
 
Twindog said:
Those axes are truly beautiful.

I'd imagine that 12 dps edges can do some serious damage. Can you share the kind of steel you use and Rc of the edge?
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Twin dog, the axes are cast then forged from a W2 steel. We aim for about 59 Rockwell. Have fount that anything over 61 becomes too brittle given the forces being withstood by a competition axe. ICS
 
ICS said:
CW, would be happy to supply any info. I have seen your comments in a few threads and you have obviously researched the subject pretty well. Noting that the only part of an axe that cuts is the edge, the first important thing to get right is the edge profile and if you think about it, a perfect curve is a really good place to start. I grind that on first, then set about making everything else work towards making the edge cut as smoothly and efficiently as I can. Any specific questions ?, I would be happy to share my thoughts and experiences. ICS
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Yes, thank you. Do you have any advice on maple and spruce, specifically rock/sugar maple and red spruce (we also have white and black)? Maybe you have something similar, but I haven't seen spruce mentioned a lot, only a few competitors who said it was tough to cut. In my experience it is better when frozen, and at this point I find something closer to a hardwood grind works, shorter first bevel.

But I'd definitely like to hear your thoughts on it as I'm still learning all the ins and outs.
 
CW, can't say I have had much to do with those specific timbers, since I live down under. I have competed in the US on a number of occasions when I lived there for a while but cut mainly white pine, aspen, poplar and cottonwood. Thing is, chopping wood is about applying simple principles, the harder the wood, the harder you make the axe to stand up to the beating it takes.
It would be easy to come up with a grind that cuts your wood, start with the edge and bevel first and go backwards from there. I guess I am lucky that I have many axes to grind and a lot of time to get it happening. What angle do you run on your bevel at the moment? ICS
 
Yeah, I thought maybe there was a similar wood there.

I use double-bits mostly and generally have kept them like the Woodsmanship and Forest Service axe gauge:
Sharpening_gauge_002.jpg


But I have a gauge made with the Dudley Cook recommendations which are 30* 1/16" from the cutting edge and 15* at 1/2". The off-edge angle I have kept the same and the chisel I have moved forward by 1/8". I have rolled the edge just slightly to keep it durable, as I understand that the angles should be increased slightly for harder wood. That would be the possible next step, to increase to approximately 31* and 16*.

I find it chips the maple very well, and definitely cuts into the spruce better now. The spruce is a very durable and resinous wood with tough knots, used for shipbuilding. It seems to cut better making smaller chips but attempting to cut deep like hardwoods.

Hopefully that makes sense. Also, it is a 4 lb. axe with a 3-1/8" bit (from the eye), and 4-1/4" edge.
 
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