Two problems with making folders...

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samwereb

Joined
Aug 3, 1999
Messages
441
1. I can't seem to match the angle in my slotted liner (locking liner) with the angle in the blade to create a solid lockup. I have tried scribing, marking with a Sharpie, and holding my tongue in different positions. I still can't seem to get one right.

2. Now that I have made a couple of nearly serviceable folders, I have lost all interest in making fixed-blade knives!

[This message has been edited by samwereb (edited 06-27-2000).]
 
You and me both Sam!! The day I'm able to make quality folders, It will be a rarity for me to make a fixed blade. Have you bought Bob Terzuola's book, The Tactial Folding Knife?? It's the best how to knife book I've read!. I haven't been succesful at folders yet, but I do know if you want to accurately mark and cut a part, use a very sharp scribe or exacto knife with a new blade, and when you cut the part, leave enough past the line where you can fine tune the fit. Hope you get it figured out! Take care! Michael

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
I use a exacto knife to scribe the angle of the blade notch onto the liner. I use a jewelers saw to cut the liner. Reassembling the the knife and holding it up to the
light lets me see what needs to be trimmed. I use a 400 grit belt on the belt sander to set the angle. Disassemble and reassemble often. "The Tactical Folding
Knife" by Bob Terzuola has a whole chapter devoted to the geometry of the liner lock.
 
You forgot to mention that theres 10 times as many little peices and parts to buy and keep track of, Or make if you have a whole lot more skill than me, and the tools.
#2 applies to me too, only I never really did get into making fixed blades. I made 1 pukko style carving knife out of a prehardened blank of swedish scalpel steel before I found bladeforums. That was my first knife ever and it looks decent but is really clumsy feeling when you hold it. Then I made a few folder kits after I found bladeforums and got hooked on folders. I can actually use them, whereas the only fixed blades I use frequently are carving knives and I have a whole tool box full of them already. Now if I could just get past all my trouble with filing out the lock on lockbacks, I could move on to having lots of trouble with handles
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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
Thanks guys. I have been marking for my cuts with a Sharpie and using a hacksaw! It may have taken me months to realize those were the pronblems. It is the simple things that I always miss. I have been trying to make a locking-liner folder with a wharncliffe blade. I put all my effort and concentration in to grinding the blade. Once I finally learned to do it right, I was so thrilled with myself that I got sloppy in cutting out the liners. Thanks again!
 
One more question, please: In placing the thumb-opening stud, is there a "rule-of-thumb" (pun unintentional) for determining the radius or how long of a "throw" it should be? I realize there is no pat answer in precise measurements, but is there a relative measurement that you use? Everyone has a different size hand, and each knife is usually of a different size. It would be a simply problem to solve if I was filling a custom order, but I am making the knife only on speculation that I can sell it.
 
Seems to me I was told no farther than 1" from the pivit hole. The shorter the distance the easier the opening(less movement in the hand). dn't take my word for it as I have never made any folders (just researched them). If I am wrong somebody please correct me
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R.A.Wilson
Wilson Custom Knives
communities.msn.com/CustomKnives
 
Sam,

once I have the blade angle and finished I assemble the blade to the liner in the open position and scribe a line with a sharp scribe. I then put the linere in a jig that I made to use in conjunction with a router attatchment fitted to a dremel tool. The jig holds the liner perpendicular to the router base. I fit the dremel tool with a thin cutoff wheel ( I mic the wheels and pick 5 or six all of the same thickness as they vary) and carefully line up the scribed lines with the plane of the cuttoff wheel.
I then turn on the dremel tool and slot my liner lengthwise (this uses 4 or 5 wheels), then turn the liner 90 deg and do the small cut for the lock area of the liner. I cut this just a bit oversize so it can be tuned. I then put my bend or crink in the lock bar.
Once this is done I assemble the knife minus bolsters and scales. I spread the lock with a small dowel and using a smooth file ( I have one that does not cut on the sides. you can use a reg file and just grind the sides smooth on a slack belt so it doesnt put a groove in your liner) and carefully file the lock bar to fit pulling the dowel and testing the lock up often. I tried tining the lock with my belt grinder but found that the titanium tends to be sticky and ruined a few sets of liners before I hit on the file method. Email me if you are interested in rough drawing of my jig.
 
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