Two questions before I buy.

P

P Dog

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Apr 14, 2001
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Hi – I think I’m about to buy my first Sebenza (a used Large Regular) and I have a couple of questions:

1. When the blade is open, how much of the blade base should be covered by the end of the lock bar? One quarter? One third? One half? more? And, is that something that I can adjust myself?

2. Should a Sebenza blade be able to flip open smoothly (using the top of the thumbnail against the side of the thumbstud) like a Benchmade AXIS-lock knife does?

Thanks in advance for any responses.
 
1/ the frame covers almost entirely the back of the blade (more than the half)

2/ Chris Reeve doesn't recommand to flick open its sebenzas, I think. You could have vertical bladeplay after some years. But you can do what you want with your knife...
 
I've been told the lock bar should be engage 25 to 50% percent of the blade.
None of the sebbies I have really "flip" open like my BM Griptillian. I can flip my BM grip open with my thumbnail like you say. A quick flick and the blade is fully engaged in the open position. I dont think Sebenzas are made to work in that manner. Its more of a smooth upward motion with your thumb, keeping the thumb on the stud the entire time of deployment until fully engaged by the lockbar, at least this is how it seems to work for me. Love my small and large regular sebs though, if you have the opportunity to buy one, you wont be dissapointed.
 
My take

1) whatever it is on your knife it most likely won't be a problem

2) No it won't flip like an axis. Is it smooth to open yes, probably, If flipping it open like an axis is imporatant to you you won't like it.
 
I like my framelock to engage about 20% of the blade or maybe even a little less.....,if the lock covers almost the entire blade and is close to the other handle-slab,the knife has probably been opened/closed a lot of times and the lockbar has been worn!
It is not recommended to flick your Sebbie......,the "stop-pin" is made out of soft metal and will "dent" when the blade hits it with force,therefore causing some play.
 
I have been able to flick my small seb at times after it has been freshly cleaned and lubed with Miltec but it is not nearly as easy to do as an axis lock Benchmade. It requires very precise effort to accomplish it. I imagine with a lot of practice I could get pretty good at it but since Chris Reeve doesn't recommend doing it, I rarely do it.
 
I have a Sebenza - lock moves over to 60% of the blade and it has only been opened regularly 50 times.

My Mnandi - lock moves over 50% and is brand new.

I agree with DaveH " whatever it is on your knife it most likely won't be a problem "

Especially on a Chris Reeve knife!
 
Thanks for the responses to my post. My deal fell through but I'm still in the market for a used Regular Large Sebenza, either on eBay I suppose, or here in the for sale/wanted area. I'm trying for something around $250, give or take a bit, if that's realistic. I want a used one because I think if I buy a new one I'll be afraid to really use it.
 
I've got several large Sebs, a couple box-stock and a couple modified/ custom'd and I find with all of them

1) Lock bar engages the tang of the knife completely. Any sort of lock that covers the tang only 1/3 of the way over is an invitation to a nasty cut, not two ways about it.

2) The pivot can be torqued down completely and the knife still opens fast with a snap. I take mine apart, clean off all the old/ other goo or lube with naptha and and then put on a layer of MD Labs XF7 which not only is utterly waterproof and and non-toxic, but it also kept one of mine functioning like glass on ball bearings for a year of daily carry in all sorts of nastiness. I swam with mine in the Pacific for two weeks and rinsed it clean when I came out of the water for the day with no corrosion apparent.

When the knifes are new I find that the ti lock galls a wee bit to a lot on the steel blade, so a little lube there cures that ill in a heartbeat. They are done breaking in for me in about a week and I've yet to have any of them wear to the point of vertical blade play. If such play became a problem, I would think replacing the blade stop pin would solve this.

And just use the new one, man, you'll get over the issue of how pretty it is as soon as you either cut yourself with it or scratch it up a little.

As for flicking the knife, what're you guys, in West Side Story? ;)
 
There is a way to slightly alter the position where the lockbar engages.

To do so, make sure the knife is fully assembled and closed, then unscrew all screws just 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn.

Now assuming the screws were on the front side, hold the knife in your hand, and push the front scale forwards, and push the back scale backwards, hold tighty, and tighten the pivot screw. Release and tighten the other screws. You'll see the lock bar covering more of the blade. If you push the other way around, you'll see less coverage.

Would you happen to drop the knife on a hard surface, and only one scale hits the surface, you might see a different lock up either.
 
I think you could probably use the biker opening method with it. It opens quick that way and your in a good grip.
 
I wouldn't worry about the lockbar's engagement. The lockbar on my Sebenzas (I currently own 6) covers anywhere from 1/4 to 2/3 of the tang. There is no discernable difference between my Sebenzas in terms of the lock's strength and reliablity. They are all rock solid.
 
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