Two Questions, two steels.

harrymole

harrymole

Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
377
I have a Livesay Woo in A-2, how hard is this steel to sharpen? I really like the knife and design and want to use this steel to its fullest extent. Also, this may a Cliff question, but what would be the maximum edge angel to which a BM710D2 blade could be taken to for everyday cutting chores? I have heard that a very thin edge causes the edge to break apart due to the grain size. Thanks in advance for all information. :D
 
A2 sharpens very nicely. D2 does also. Start with the course stone if they are dullish and work up. These can be hardened to Rc 58-60 or more so it takes a little more work but any ceramic stone is many times harder than the best steel and will remove it.

I sharpen to 20 degree on the primary edge bevels (15 degrees on the secondary bevels). I could probably narrow the the primary to 15-18 but am too lazy and 20 works fine for most duty folders and fixed blades.

Kitchen knives because they are usually thinner can use a 15 degree primary edge bevel.

Here is what THE MAN, Joe Talmadge says about steels and sharpening.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368828
 
I have read bits and pieces of Joe's post and you are right he is the MAN. I know I have heard there is some talk of the grain size in D2 that has caused some problems with breakage on a very acute edge. I use a Lansky to sharpen all of my knives so would the 17degree mark be too thin? I have them hair popping sharp now, but if it is better at a more acute angle I would go there. I have my edges at 20degrees w/ a backbevel of 25 degrees using the Lansky and it seems to do great. I was just curious as too popular opinion on this subject. I also know nothing of A-2, the blade I have now has the Kalgard coating on it. Is this a durable coating? i can't wait to get to put this blade to use. Thanks again for all the comments.
 
It depends on what you are cutting, carving hardwoods requires more of an angle than slicing cardboard, but generally when you dip under 15 degrees per side you start to encounter problems with tear outs. If you are just cutting soft materials, and not chopping or twisting on the blade you can cut the primary edge bevel down a lot (10 easily) and just micro-bevel and you will be fine.

-Cliff
 
H. Mole-
\
Here a couple of links that say it with pictures. I don't know if there is one best edge angle for A2. Sharpening is always a tradeoff between thinness (ease of cutting) and strength (edge retention). Even the same steels acti differently depending on how they are heat treated and tempered. You can always go thin and test to see if the edge starts to fold. Maybe use a brass rod for the test. Anyway here are those links.

http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showtopic=26036


http://www.ajh-knives.com/metals.html

They are long and detailed but worth the effort. The best place I know to discuss A2 is the Bark River Knife Site. Mike Stewart is the wizard there and has been very helpful and friendly to me.

http://www.barkriverknives.com/
 
Kalgard wears fairly easily and smoothly. A2 has a fine grain, and should sharpen very well, R. J. Martin praises it for example for high sharpness and uses it in his chisel ground knives.

-Cliff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top