Two things: Edge Pro bevel irregularity / All potential EP hacks, mods, and upgrades.

Juicer · Aug 11, 2014

Just joined today, bear with me.

I bought the Edge Pro Apex/Pro clone last month. Since then, I've bought several accessories. Stones, spring, useless drill stop, angle cube etc..

I'd like to buy the bare bones Apex, and go all out on some of the modifications that I've seen here. NRA, 303Tango, and harivney have come up with some great ones. The problem is that I can't find a tutorial or a detailed parts list. I'd also really like to find the MadRookie pivot arm.

If I can't come up with what I want, I guess I'll just grab the Edge Pro Professional.

Also, I'm attaching some pics of my EDC that I sharpened a few days ago. It looks great IMO, but I'm running into some real problems with the tip. I'm right-handed, but the finish that I get with my left hand looks much better.

Thoughts?

uofaengr · Aug 12, 2014

Just curious how the drill stop collar is useless? I don't have an EP anymore, but that $3 part kept me from pulling me my hair out making sharpening much faster.

Juicer · Aug 12, 2014

I have the EP clone right now. The guide is mounted to the top of the vertical pivot rod. I think that the theory behind the drill stop collar is that the rod and collar stay constant, and only the guide is adjusted. This isn't possible with the clone to my knowledge. It will be invaluable once I make my new system.

cbwx34 · Aug 12, 2014

The Stop Collar will work.. if the guide is connected to angle rod (which is what I think you mean by vertical rod), then you set the stop collar so that it works using the base of the Edge Pro for a reference.

Kinda hard to tell from your pics, but the easiest way to learn to work the tip area is mark it with a Sharpie, hold the knife in different positions on the table, and learn what position removes metal in what area. Getting all the mods you mentioned won't help unless you learn the basics of how it works. Little practice and I think you'll be fine.

Squashfan · Aug 12, 2014

When I was using my Lansky guided system I found that it caused the same exact problem. The guided system is actually forcing you to sharpen the tip unnaturally.

I started free handing my tips and latter I went totally freehand. Why? Because a sharp tip is formed when the stone or blade is tilted. IIRC, the knife is stationary and the stone is moved over it This would make more sense with a pic but I will try. When you are sharpening the knife and the belly the stone lays more or less flat (side to side) in relation to the "primary" grind, or as some people call it, the back bevel. This is the wide bevel that thins the knife from the spine thickness toward the cutting edge. But when you get to the tip, the stone should not be flat. It should be tipped toward the spine (again, I am talking side to side of the stone.) so that the stone is only working the tip! This may seems complicated but it was the easiest thing for me to grasp. Just sit with a knife that still has its tip and a stone a really look at when this comes into play. What I just described is the natural, right way to do it.

Not the best description but at least I tried. If you have any questions just ask.

singularity35 · Aug 12, 2014

I'm right handed too and I have to work to keep the bevels on the tips more or less equal. I attribute it to my left hand not being able to hold the knife on the table as consistently as my right hand.

cbwx34 · Aug 13, 2014

Squashfan said:
When I was using my Lansky guided system I found that it caused the same exact problem. The guided system is actually forcing you to sharpen the tip unnaturally.

I started free handing my tips and latter I went totally freehand. Why? Because a sharp tip is formed when the stone or blade is tilted. IIRC, the knife is stationary and the stone is moved over it This would make more sense with a pic but I will try. When you are sharpening the knife and the belly the stone lays more or less flat (side to side) in relation to the "primary" grind, or as some people call it, the back bevel. This is the wide bevel that thins the knife from the spine thickness toward the cutting edge. But when you get to the tip, the stone should not be flat. It should be tipped toward the spine (again, I am talking side to side of the stone.) so that the stone is only working the tip! This may seems complicated but it was the easiest thing for me to grasp. Just sit with a knife that still has its tip and a stone a really look at when this comes into play. What I just described is the natural, right way to do it.

Not the best description but at least I tried. If you have any questions just ask.

Guess I don't understand this... the stone on the EdgePro (Lansky too) will pivot or rotate side to side, so you can work "just the tip" if you want. Probably the most common error on either device is not setting the position of the knife tip correctly, which can result in an angle change, but that's usually overcome by adjusting the position. (The other common problem is running the stone off the tip which can dull it or change the profile).

The Edge Pro can be pretty close to freehand sharpening in most cases... it's just a reverse of freehand... the knife is held stationary and the stone moves around it. Even the Lansky can do this if the blade is properly positioned. Of course there are exceptions, but they'll handle the majority of knives.

Squashfan · Aug 14, 2014

cbwx34 said:
Guess I don't understand this... the stone on the EdgePro (Lansky too) will pivot or rotate side to side, so you can work "just the tip" if you want. Probably the most common error on either device is not setting the position of the knife tip correctly, which can result in an angle change, but that's usually overcome by adjusting the position. (The other common problem is running the stone off the tip which can dull it or change the profile).

The Edge Pro can be pretty close to freehand sharpening in most cases... it's just a reverse of freehand... the knife is held stationary and the stone moves around it. Even the Lansky can do this if the blade is properly positioned. Of course there are exceptions, but they'll handle the majority of knives.

I had to read you question twice to understand what you are saying. But you are correct, the stone can swivel. Maybe force was the wrong word. Maybe I should have said encourage. If you don't know to swivel the stone you will just sharpen the tip the same way that the knife above was sharpened. And you will have the same dull tip. I have a knife like that from my Lansky days. I remember MY biggest problem when I was using the lansky was that I could not see the tip as I was working. So even though I could swivel the stone, I couldn't see if I was doing the tip correctly.