Types of steel...

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Plainsman

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Apr 5, 1999
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I understand that there are many types of steel with different qualities that are better in some uses than others, can you explain some of the following:
1)Many less expensive knives are made from 440 stainless, what is the best qualities of that steel?

2)I have a stainless Ek Survival/Fighter that I'm trying to change the angle on part of the blade, but it's taking FOREVER with my Lansky. What kind of steel is it or do you think it is?

3)And finally, this may cause some debate, which steel would you recommend for a 5-7" fixed bladed knife for outdoor use and why?

I'm trying to learn so I can start working on another knife that may turn out...
Thanks much!

Plainsman :-)
 
Plainsman:
It's not really the steel that dictates the price of the knife, unless you get into Damascus & Talonite etc. It's the workmanship & fittings. It's really a personal thing. Some guys like high carbon steel over stainless, other guys like stainless over carbon. Carbon steel will of course rust if not taken care of, but so will stainless to a certain degree (Stain LESS). I use only ATS-34 & can make a knife for less than $100 & up to,& over, $600, at this time. For a fixed blade outdoor knife, I would say stainless. If the knife is going to get some serious use. It may get put away a little damp. Can pick-up moisture from the weather conditions, etc. I heat treat my blades to RC 58-60 & find that they hold an edge very well & am quite happy with this steel at this time. There are many other steels that I have not tried as yet, but hope to in the future. Ask me later & I'll prob. have a different opinion. Like I said, it's a personal thing.
 
I agree with BCK. Unless you are talking about pattern-welded steel or one of the newer alloys like Stellite or Talonite the price of the knife is usually dictated by not only the materials used but also the craftsmanship. For example, expect to pay more for a knife that has ivory scales and engraved than one with just plain wood scales. Just remember that the blade is the "heart and soul" of the knife. The handle material and fittings are the personality. When you get right down to the nitty-gritty, it is the blade that counts most of all. If it will not cut, it is useless. I state that with tongue in cheek and as a knife maker(I don't want to offend any of our collector friends).
I personally like to make knives that are very functional and also look good. It is a matter of pride.

CLWilkins
 
Just my opinion!
For a user...go with D2 when working it you may hate me, but when using the knife, you will thank me.
SquareD
 
Plainsman
440c will do a good job for you when starting . Its less expensive and if you mess up you havent waisted big bucks for the steel. Try a few knives then move on th other steels after you feel you can make one and fix all the mistakes as you go.
After you have a few under your belt try the cpm 440v and 420 v steels. They work well and make great cutting tools.
You may want to try a few carbon blades first to get used to grinding. They a inexpensive and easy to find. ITs time to just make the plunge..


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If you haven't ground a blade before my advise would be to "practice" on wood. Believe it or not, this helped me trememdously when I first started. You really find out in a hurry what to do and not to do. A wooden blade was my second attempt after I really messed up a piece of 440C. It was time well worth spent. It grinds very easily, is awfully inexpensive and is very good practical experience. Some may argue that you could be grinding a real knife instead of playing with wood but it will really pay off.

Profile it just like you would steel and grind away. See what you come up with.

CLWilkins
 
My advice, stick with 01 for your initial work. It grinds like butter, comparatively, and can be heat treated easily. It's also widely abailable in precision ground stock, in almost any size you could want. It will hold an edge fairly well, and isn't too hard to regrind after heat treatment.

RJ Martin
 
Gentlemen: I must respectfully disagree.

It is the WORKMANSHIP, not the materials, that raise the cost of a knife (or jewelry, watches, etc.).

I have in front of me an invoice from Kit Carson, regarding the first two Talonite (r)#18 folders. The price is $465 each. I supplied the Talonite, so its' cost is not included. The cost of the Talonite (r), purchased from Rob Simonich, was $60 per knife.

You will, indeed, pay more for more expensive materials, but most of the cost is in the workmanship. Kit, for example, added some (well justified) money as the Talonite is more difficult to work than standard steel alloys. I think that the knives are absolutely fantastic, by the way, and the Talonite (r) is a truly fine blade material.

Just my opinion. Walt
 
Walt, that's exactly what was said above.
"It's not really the steel that dictates the price of the knife, unless you get into Damascus & Talonite etc. It's the *workmanship* & fittings."
 
Go to your local junk-yard and pick out a couple of old leaf-springs and go to town.
This is the cheapest and best steel for the beginer to use.
 
Leaf springs are great forging stock, but if you're not set up for forging ... do you want to make a knife that curves off to the side?

-Cougar Allen :{)
 
Cougar, you can use it as a shovel that way, if it's bent to the side.
 
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