Typical sharpening angles for Busse knives

T

tomdogma

Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
234
I have the Busse bug bad and since january i have purchased the following in order of size and have been chopping and slicing and now want to sharpen some, here they are, any tips towards sharpening them(edge angles etc) would be greatly appreciated;
CG FFFBM
CG NMSFNO
CG ASH1 BBDC
Skinny Ash (Convex?)
Satin Jack Tac variant (cupid ganza 2 pick up)
CG HG55
BATACLE
SAR 4 LE (Convex)
BAD
Game Warden .270
Thanks in Advance
 
On the convex knives. They are super simple. Get a leather strop, and some stropping compound.
Take the knife and try to run the knife edge first along the strop, increase the angle until the knife just wants to bite, that will be the angle you strop at (do this step softly with almost no force so you won't cut your strop)

now lightly drag the knife spine first at that same angle. If you nick the blade, use sandpaper with a soft backing with the same process until the nick is gone, then back to the strop.

Simple as pie.

After sharpening your convex edges by hand, you will likely start convexing all your other edges to make them easier to maintain.

I have hand convexed all the edges on my Busse knives. Even the FBMLE was convexed by hand (which was a pain and took some time)


You can also strop your v grind knives, using the same process. Check the edge to find the "bite" angle and strop at that angle.

The key to stropping is not to push hard downward. The weight of the knife will do the work. In fact while stropping heavier blades like the BM's you tent to keep some tension in your arm to keep the edge from pushing too hard into the leather (which will cause the edge to get duller as the material wraps back up the edge when pushing too hard).
 
fugawee said:
Sharpening info can also be found here,
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=794

Stropping is easy and I cant see you ruining
anything.
Convexing with sandpaper on the other hand,
Me,I would practice on a cheap knife first.
Click to expand...

For sure, you can ruin a knife by trying to convex it with sandpaper. Read some tutorials, and practice with a some cheaper knives.

But really, if I can do it, any idiot can. I did my first knife modification with my SS. I took the reverse curve out of the blade and hand convexed the edges.

All i used was a pane of glass (as a nice flat surface that I could tape the sand paper down over the mousepad to), slightly larger than the sheets of sand paper, a mouse pad and some sandpaper of varying grits.

I already had a convexed GW, which I loved.

I have since convexed my Ash1cg, and my FBMLE by hand. I have a 1x30 belt sander which I have used to sharpen two knives (but have not used on any infi yet).
 
Go to the computer section of walmart, they sell them for just a couple of buck as opposed to Staples where they are closer to 7...I made this mistake I ruined expensive mouse pads and have a cheap one on the desk, go figure. : )
 
Last edited:
If you have a leather strop,
you can wrap it with the sandpaper.
Just so long as there is cushion and give under the paper.
 
I'm not sure there is any one angle that's best, people tend to find the angle that works for them. Something in the range of 15 - 25 degrees per side is typical, depends on your tasks.

Some folk like to convex, others are fine with the typical V-edge. You can use regular stones, or V sticks like the Spyderco Sharpmaker, or a device like the Edge Pro. All these methods can deliver a sharp edge.

re convexing...the old style, thick soft mouse pad may not be the best, some people find it's too easy to press down too hard, then the paper 'wraps' around the edge and makes it too blunt. The newer thinner ones are better in this regard. You can also use leather, a magazine, or a phone book as the base.

some good info here:

http://www.barkriverknives.com/convex.htm

and here

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/p4/Sharpening-Videos/pages.html

Also the Maintenance forum here has lot's of good info.
 
I strop all my knives and the edges tend to become convex over time. AS far as angle I think it depends on application. More Obtuse for chopping, more acute for finer cutting. Infi is able to accomadate and function well at most any angle you choose. Most of my Busses came with thick angles. Some I left and others I thinned considerably. I agree with Resinguy, 15 to 25 dgrees covers most any task
 
I have the knives listed below:

Cultellus
FBM
BAD
SFNO
BATAC-LE
ASH1
NICK XXXL
HR
NMSFNO
MRS
GW

Am I correct in that the only knives on the list with convex blades are the NICK XXL & Cultellus?
 
Electric sharpeners are for yutz's that want a quick sharp edge on cheap-ass stamped blade kitchen knives,,,,,,, the edge-pro or the Lansky is the way to go for knives that are worth something. On my Busse blades I usually just use a steel to polish the edge,,,,,,,,haven't whammied them bad enough to cause major reconstructive sharpening. A few minutes with the steel or a strop and they're back to hair popping sharpness.
 
thanks everyone! I used an edge pro on my satin jack tac variant, i first used the sharpie method to find the factory angle (around 25 degrees), i then used the course stone to put an edge on the swedge) I was a little rough at first and put a few scratches on the surface, but it is now nice and sharp on both sides, and i learned a lot. I am going to start work on convexing and will try the sandpaper mouse pad approach, I also need to buy some rouge and make a strop and use it on everything!
 
is their a standard angle that Busse puts on at the factory for their non-convex edges? or does it vary depending on the knife design?
 
Any tips at all for the Busse NOOB on sharpening his FFBM?

I've never had a knife this huge! :)
 
drjones said:
Any tips at all for the Busse NOOB on sharpening his FFBM?

I've never had a knife this huge! :)
Click to expand...

i use the edge pro for pretty much everything, including my larger busses.

for touch ups only, ill use a sharpmaker or steel.


i suck at stropping, so even for convex edge ill use the sharpmaker stones or a steel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top