Tyrade takedown 2

Joined
May 16, 2006
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I originally posted this last night over on Mr. LaBella's site and wanted to bring it over here. This went easier than I expected and went back together perfectly.
So I decided tonight that I was going to take my Kershaw Tyrade apart. Of course the big obstacle is that the frame screws are located under the carbon fiber inlays. I had been giving this problem some thought already and had decided to use my heat gun to try and loosen the adhesive holding these scales in place. Laid the knife on an appropiate surface and centered on the rear edge of the scale. Didn't take but a couple of minutes to break the seal. I used a very small straight edge screwdriver to lift the edge, and then ran the screwdriver on under the scale and it popped right out as did the other side. There are 3 screws that hold the two frame halves together. After I had the Tyrade completely broken down I did a few little things that I commonly do to all my knives. I cleaned all oil off, polished all surfaces that made contact and were involved in movement, and polished the pivot pin itself. In the end this polishing did help. Another thing I did was to make a fairly stiff framelock spring even stiffer! This was done by simply putting a tad more bend in the lock. I also rotated the stop pin a quarter turn. Lastly I took some 60 grit paper and roughed up the blade tang where the locking occurs. End result was a lockup I absolutely love. The blade tang is covered by the face of the spring by about 25%, leaving the other 75% for wear. The roughing up of the blade tang gives the lock some "stick". You WILL NOT accidentally disengage this lock! After this I put it back together and everything went right back with the perfect fit and finish it had before I started. A little super glue took care of the carbon fiber scales. I liked this knife and it was an edc before I started, and now I have a knife I like a little better and it is still an edc and will be for a long time to come! Btw, I am one of those people who do the spine tap to test the lockup of my knives. I generally do 5 taps very rapidly and see what happens to lockbar. On the Tyrade, the lock moved in just a hair, maybe even a half hair, and 5 more rapid taps resulted in no movement in either direction.

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Great post Cutter17! Can you please explain what your Pivot polishing procedure is? Method, equipment, etc.. Thanks.
 
All I really do is take the pivot, hold it by the wider part at the end, replace the screw so I will a better purchase on it. Then I dab a bit of polishing compound and fire up the dremel with a polishing wheel on it and work it that way. Works great for me.:thumbup::D
 
Thanks cutter17, that's the same way I polished my pivots, but I'm always afraid of launching the pivot with my Dremel.
 
Thanks cutter17, that's the same way I polished my pivots, but I'm always afraid of launching the pivot with my Dremel.


Done that a time or two myself! I found that putting the screw back into the pivot helped me have someplace to hold on to.


Thanks Thomas. It was no trouble and going back together was a cinch with everything lining up perfectly.:D
 
Oh how I wish I would take the time to learn how to do pictures, but then that would mean buying a camera as I can never seem to find my cuz at home and get his. Pics of the Tyrade apart would have been neat.
 
How about a flatbed scanner?
Not much skill necessary to get some pretty high quality images.
 
Here are a few images of the Tyrade for those that are curious.
Ti scale with CF insert

Picture136.jpg


Inside of front scale

Picture138.jpg


CPM D-2/13C26 Composite Blade

Picture137.jpg


Getting closer

Picture135.jpg


All finished up

1850.jpg
 
Here are a few images of the Tyrade for those that are curious.
Ti scale with CF insert

Picture136.jpg


Inside of front scale

Picture138.jpg


CPM D-2/13C26 Composite Blade

Picture137.jpg


Getting closer

Picture135.jpg


All finished up

1850.jpg


Man, THAT certaintly looks familiar!!:D:thumbup::D Thanks very much!!
 
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