U-TU edge endurance and cutting test

[SAR]

Built this in the last few days and it was refreshing to do something new.A link to pics of the U-TU ( Ulu Tool Ultility )http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411565


As with something kinda new and out of the box i did a quick review before i send it to other folks for testing.

The test Items for this review

5/8" thick rated fuel line
1/4 hard plastic tubing
Kevlar reinforced tubular nylon called spectre cord used in climbing
Applied technologies catolog with thick index pages like the big book from msc supply
cardboard box
3/4" thick white oak very hard and dry with large knot in the top center
Carrots, tomato, barbecued meat, and a sheet of paper.



Most things where sliced with the primary edge .014 thou. because i was worried about the how thin it was, and if it would fold, deform, or just fail

This test was performed non stop ( about 45 min long) and the blade was not altered, resharpened, or even stroped.

The first test was the hose line, useing the U-TU in a rocking motion as one would a ulu it sliced the 2' of hose line quickly and very clean with little effort no hot spots where felt at this time.





Next i performed a punch test at full speed the blade penatrated 3/8 of a inch into a catolog that is as industrious as the stuff they sell page 74 of a 324 page book no edge deformation noted, Did not hurt my hand.







Next was the hard plastic tubing, it took more presssure to get thru the top wall but once in it snaped the bottom cleanly and pieces flipped thru the air. Some hot spots occured where the the stem flares from the top of the blade and the wrap is a little much?

 

[SAR]

Next was the tubular kevlar reinforced 1/2" webbing, started with a rocking motion. The top cuts where clean some pressure was needed to get into the bottom and the kevalr fibers had some tenacity so i switched to a slicing motion and was able to get the job done. I belive if the cutting surface had been food grade plastic it would have performed a better job. By this time some of the hot spots are glaring but not completely uncomfortable.



Back to the punch test after the edge had been used once again at full speed it reach page 71 the edge once again with stood and was still straight. Once again no damage to my hand.



Next i sliced a large flap of cardboard the knife started to show signs of edge wear but with some effort the job was completed.



Next I stood the 3/4" dried oak on end placeing the primary edge and with a 20 oz finish hammer one modest blow and the wood split almost to the bottom, because of the handle stopped it with a twist the wood fell in 2 piece's. this was very near a large knot that was in the center of the board .This test was performed twice with equal results, because of the hammer blow i cracked the moon glow at one of the drill holes and the stuff is not very durable to begin with yet it is still functional.The edge was still straight as it was when the test started no cracks, no bend at all and it still had a decent edge. Good enough to perform the last test.





last thing i did was cut some baby carrots, slice a small tomato, bardecued meat and still manage to cut some paper.



I would say it passed its first trails and is workable.

The U-TU is on its way to others for some Kitchen and farm time and then off to another to be used on his kyayk trip, a second model is being built for a writer that wants to try one and use it for deer season? . Armed with this info we will tweak it make it as user friendly, funtional and put some nice form to it.

Thanks and hope you enjoyed feel free to post opinions comments likes and dislikes

 

[para-frame]

that is amazing. are you making any more of those?

 

[SAR]

Para tried to send you a pm but no go so please visit my website let me get your contact info. My days are numbered here when my subscription is up i am out of here?

sar

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Is the primary grind hollow? What is the angle of the edge? I would be concerned about the neck inducing hot spots in extended use as you are making contact with just bare steel stock. You might want to consider having a standard reference model in say 420HC in the evaluation or similar to show just what you obtain in the much more expensive 154CM. Considering the thickness of the steel I would expect it to take much more lateral loading than the board splitting. The neck is the weak point as it is narrow, but since it is unground 3/16" stock you should be in the class of hanging from it. Just consider the strength of a common nail of similar size as the neck. It also looks like it would be able to readily lash to a stick to make a field axe. Unless the holes serve specific purposes (arrow straightener) if they are just for weight a higher grind would do the same thing and enhance cutting ability and ease of resharpening.

-Cliff

 

[para-frame]

OK i went to your site.

 

[SAR]

Is the primary grind hollow? What is the angle of the edge? I would be concerned about the neck inducing hot spots in extended use as you are making contact with just bare steel stock. You might want to consider having a standard reference model in say 420HC in the evaluation or similar to show just what you obtain in the much more expensive 154CM. Considering the thickness of the steel I would expect it to take much more lateral loading than the board splitting. The neck is the weak point as it is narrow, but since it is unground 3/16" stock you should be in the class of hanging from it. Just consider the strength of a common nail of similar size as the neck. It also looks like it would be able to readily lash to a stick to make a field axe. Unless the holes serve specific purposes (arrow straightener) if they are just for weight a higher grind would do the same thing and enhance cutting ability and ease of resharpening.

-Cliff

Hey cliff your observations are correct,the primary grind is hollow chisel grind i know folks are not fans of them but in my thinking if you are skinning or fleshing a hide it would perform very well the angle is very steep 3" wheel. I plan to do another and use a 6" wheel to see what is gained .

The stem does induce some hotspots will attempt to reduce them as much as possible or remove it and put the stems on the outside . I did some lateral testing the next one built i will attempt to bend it after it has ran thru a gamit of other things i have planned....I took this concept from drawing to what you see in about 6 hours total time.

The holes do three things at this time you can lash it to make a light utility axe, it is the primary means of sheath lock up and works very well, and they do lighten the load a little.

In a nut shell it does work well not at its best so i will go back to the drawing board and clean it up. Thanks for taking the time to provide some great feedback and constructive criticism, this is not the last you will see of this thing

sar

 

[hlee]

You mention in another post thread that you have an outdoor writer taking trying one of these U-TUs out during the upcoming deer season. I think that what he may find is that it is great for fleshing, but poor for field dressing. The only reason that I say this is because there is no acute point to make a first incision. A nice pointy knife really comes in handy getting up under the skin and abdominal wall without puncturing the gut. And, while I am not a fan of a "gut hook," this may be one case where an edge on the back of the blade may enhance utility in this regard. As you may imagine, it is easiest to cut along the sternum by holding the knife like an icepick and pulling the blade through the rib cage. About the neck of the knife, I wonder if you thought about placing the neck of the knife at the front edge of the blade, allowing all four fingers to curl around the handle behind the neck. I'm sort of envisioning a bearder axe head configuration with an acute point at the rear of the blade. This would enhandce comfort, allow for a thicker nech region, and (with the addition of end user removeable scales) make for a better emergency axe. Anyway, really like the design and have contacted you about purchase when these come available. These are just some thoughts that I had.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

If the neck was much thicker, say 3/8", and fully rounded there would likely be no concerns about strength or comfort, but from a stock removal viewpoint that would be a lot of steel to remove for the rest of it. It might be useful to expore altering the side profiles to make them asymmetric. Leave one fairly thick to chisel cut wire, break bones and such, and grind the other one really fine for delicate cutting.

-Cliff

 

[SAR]

You mention in another post thread that you have an outdoor writer taking trying one of these U-TUs out during the upcoming deer season. I think that what he may find is that it is great for fleshing, but poor for field dressing. The only reason that I say this is because there is no acute point to make a first incision. A nice pointy knife really comes in handy getting up under the skin and abdominal wall without puncturing the gut. And, while I am not a fan of a "gut hook," this may be one case where an edge on the back of the blade may enhance utility in this regard. As you may imagine, it is easiest to cut along the sternum by holding the knife like an icepick and pulling the blade through the rib cage. About the neck of the knife, I wonder if you thought about placing the neck of the knife at the front edge of the blade, allowing all four fingers to curl around the handle behind the neck. I'm sort of envisioning a bearder axe head configuration with an acute point at the rear of the blade. This would enhandce comfort, allow for a thicker nech region, and (with the addition of end user removeable scales) make for a better emergency axe. Anyway, really like the design and have contacted you about purchase when these come available. These are just some thoughts that I had.

Thanks to both for the feedback........hlee i sent you a email back not sure if you got it.

sar

 

[hlee]

I got the e-mail and I eagerly await a finished product.