Ulize "microbevel" degree question

jmclfrsh

jmclfrsh

Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
1,379
My Ulize came from the factory much sharper than any other knife I own. I noticed that the actual cutting edge (is that considered the "microbevel?) is wider than on my other knives, like it is sharpened further up from the actual blade edge. Much more than my FFG Endura4 came with, or my PM2.

My local knife shop owner noticed and commented on it as well when I showed it to him for the first time. He had never seen a Ulize before (I purchased it online) and he then ordered some for the shop, as he was also impressed with it.

I do not own a blade angle gauge yet, and wondered if perhaps it came from Seki City with something other than a 40 degree angle, which I utilize on all my EDC knives after watching the Sharpmaker instructional video.

Anyone have a Ulize and notice the same thing, or can shed some light on this for me?

Does a FFG Endura 4, for instance, utilize barely any microbevel, if that is the term, compared to a PM2 or a Ulize?
 
Mine was also my sharpest out of the box spyderco. I touched up mine at 15 degree's per side on my Edge Pro and it was very close to factory.
 
jmclfrsh said:
(is that considered the "microbevel?)
Click to expand...

Nope; that's considered the edge. You're not supposed to see a true microbevel. The "size" of your edge (how futher up it goes) is determined by the angle of the edge, and the thickness of the blade at the end of the main bevel. Hope it makes sense?
 
Thank you for responding, guys. Much appreciated.

I use a Sharpmaker; would I be able to sharpen it to the "15 degrees per side" you mentioned, Clanton, using the 30 degree bevel slots on the SM, as opposed to the 40 degree slots?

And lastly, what does "included angle" mean?
 
You can certainly try. Color the edge with a sharpie and run it down the fine or UF SM set at 30 a few times. Do the sharpie marks get rubbed off completely? If they do, then 30 is the edge angle.

A 15 degree angle on each side would be 30 degrees included. That's what included means, it's the overall angle of both sides. The slots on the SM are inclusive angles, so when you hear someone say 15 degrees or 20 degrees they're generally talking about 30 or 40 degrees inclusive.
 
Spyderco edge angles are not consistantly the same. They don't use a system that controls the angles. I saw a video of a Native being made and they used a grinding wheel. I've also heard they use belts at some factories. I have an EP and most of the time the angle is between 30 and 40 degrees but once in a while they are outside these angles. The terms used for different edge segments as well as the entire blade seem to differ from person to person. Not surprising since we come from all over the world. I think Spyderco's terms are back bevel to describe the bevel above the edge. This would be the 30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker. Then there is the edge bevel which is right on the edge of course. This would be the 40 degree setting on the Sharpmaker. As defaultuser said the term "micro-bevel" IMO should be used only when the edge-bevel is so small you can barely see it with the naked eye. After a couple of touch ups the edge-bevel will get wider and easier to see. Then I call it an edge-bevel. These are just words or terms and can be used differently. That's not going to change but as long as we know the section of the edge we are talking about that's what matters I suppose. My Spyderco knves have all come very sharp with one or two exceptions. The two sharpest I've received were the Michael Walker CF and Stretch (ZDP, blue handle). Both of those knives had a seperate edge bevel and back bevel.. IMO, unless you have a guided sharpening system (and are very skilled with it) or an exceptional free hand sharpener the edge-bevel is the best way to get the hair whittling super sharp edges. Having one bevel makes it much harder to maintain the angle accuracy which is all important when sharpening. Especially when shooting for the sharpest edge possible. The edge bevel at a higher angle satisfies two benifits. Makes touch ups much easier and faster. Also, they make it easier to get a sharper, better cutting edge. With a very low angle back bevel used to thin the blade and a very small edge bevel at a higher angle there is very little if any cutting performance difference than if the edge were just one bevel at the lower (back bevel) angle. This is how I understand it and it seems to hold true in daily cutting. Happy new year.

Jack
 
THANK YOU for the clarifications, as I t certainly helps solve a couple of mysteries I've had when it comes to one of the more technical side of knives I CAN control, sharpening them, and I certainly appreciate you taking the time to explain those things.

I don't have the skill set to make the knives I own, and I appreciate the vision and talent of those that can produce them. I feel pretty good when I get a keen edge on one now, and that's a nice feeling.

I'll play around with the angles as you described on a couple of my cheaper, earlier acquisitions, then transfer that knowledge to my pricier knives when their time comes to get touched up.

Next steps; learn and perfect stropping, and then it's on to knife throwing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top