I have a couple of suggestions.
Don't use nickel silver. It tarnishes, not as badly as brass but it does. Using a stainless like 303 will be much more corrosion-resistance, not much harder to work, and probably a bit cheaper, too.
I'd rather have a guard than bolsters. Bolsters can be knocked loose from the tang and are often unsealed, whereas a guard is a single piece that wraps around the tang and is easily sealed by soldering. Bolsters are fine for small knives or folders, but on anything that might chop (and thus might strike against the guard by accident) a full metal guard is the best bet. Bolsters or "integral" guards (formed by the handle material, that is) are too easily knocked loose in this situation.
I really feel you should look beyond cutler's rivets. These press-fit types have very low holding power, and their thin heads limit the degree of handle contouring you can do. They also only come in brass or NS that I've seen. I use them for kitchen knives, but that's about it.
I prefer "Corby" style rivets in stainless - they're VERY strong, have a thick head that looks like a huge pin, and allow you to "test-assemble" the knife if you need to before you grind their heads off. "Loveless" bolts look nice but I don't care for the use of two metals and they will have a gap from their threads (though there is a good tip on fixing this). Acorn-bolts are the worst, IMO - you have to be very careful not to grind off the entire head or they look just like the Loveless-type.
I hope this helps. I've done a few knives similar to what you suggest and am working on a new field knife type right now, if you'd like to swap info. Good luck!
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-Corduroy
"Why else would a bear want a pocket?"
Little Bear Knives
Drew Gleason:
adg@student.umass.edu
