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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Uncle Henry LB8 or 7OT
- Thread starter Hedger
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2006
- Messages
- 1,867
All the usa stuff was only made till 2004 thats uncle henry, old timer, open stocks etc... Anything made in china your looking for answers in the wrong area we are all pre 2004 collectors here for the most part. Any usa stuff will be for the most part marked USA. Now for the usa stuff its all your personal preference, I collect ot's but actually prefer the lb8, Just my 2 cents. And dont wast your money on it if it says china or even better if it dosent say anthing at all its probablly not USA so beware!! - Joel
I agree with Joel, its all just personal preference. If I'm not mistaken, the LB8, LB7, 7OT and 6OT were all built on the same frames with 5" clip blades. There may be more differences others can tell you, but here is what little I know.
The LB8 had staglon handles with a shield that said "Uncle Henry" on it. The LB7 had wood handles, generally no shield. HOWEVER, there were MANY variations of the LB7 released, to include scrimshaws and one with a drop point blade.
The 7OT was essentially the same as the LB7, but with sawcut delrin handles and the "OLD TIMER" shield. The 6OT also had the sawcut delrin handles and "OLD TIMER" shield, but only had the front bolsters. It had a lanyard hole in the end without the bolsters.
The LB8 had staglon handles with a shield that said "Uncle Henry" on it. The LB7 had wood handles, generally no shield. HOWEVER, there were MANY variations of the LB7 released, to include scrimshaws and one with a drop point blade.
The 7OT was essentially the same as the LB7, but with sawcut delrin handles and the "OLD TIMER" shield. The 6OT also had the sawcut delrin handles and "OLD TIMER" shield, but only had the front bolsters. It had a lanyard hole in the end without the bolsters.
Hedger,
I forgot about the guthooks. Yes, the LB9 is the one with the guthook. It is a good bit harder to find than the LB8 or LB7. There is also a 9OT. Same knife as the 7OT, but with the guthook blade.
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2005
- Messages
- 1,771
For those interested in the internal differences:
In working on Schrades I have accumulated a number of new & used blades for this series of knives. I have blades for the LB7, 7OT, 6OT, LB8 and the scrimshaw version (can't recall the number at the moment).
There is indeed an internal difference in some of these knives. There are 4 or 5 variations I have of the blade. The difference have to do with the size & placement of the slot of the lock bar & the size & placement of the pivot pin hole relative to the end of the blade.
I have also noticed a 6OT with the two flat springs in it as opposed to the bar spring and the keeper which fits into the end of the knife & holds the bar spring. The keeper also acts as a spacer to keep the two liners apart.
Dale
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2003
- Messages
- 2,556
Hedger,
Best bit of advice I ever got about Schrade was never assume.. The 7OT was advertised as high carbon in 1991. The picture I have is without the + stamp. In 1996 its listed as Schrade +. Somewhere around 95/96 they changed to +.
Best guess is that if its stamped with a + its stainless. Otherwise best to test.
Best bit of advice I ever got about Schrade was never assume.. The 7OT was advertised as high carbon in 1991. The picture I have is without the + stamp. In 1996 its listed as Schrade +. Somewhere around 95/96 they changed to +.
Best guess is that if its stamped with a + its stainless. Otherwise best to test.
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2005
- Messages
- 1,771
Larry is spot on. :thumbup:
If it has the + it is stainless.
Without the + it could be either one.
If I am buying one for a user, I look for rust spots or little rust pits.
Then I know it is carbon steel, as long as it is not rust transferred onto a ss blade that has been stored next to a rusty carbon blade. I have seen that happen.
One sure way to tell if it is carbon steel is to sharpen it on a belt sander or a super fine stone (not recommended unless you have the proper equipment and a LOT of practice because you sharpen into the oncoming wheel)- If you use either of these methods you will get a shower of sparks with carbon steel. Good stainless does not spark, or gives only an occasional spark.
A word about the grinding wheel-
In the 1980s I went to work in a cutlery store as manager. The sharpening system we had was a Baldor buffer motor (1700 RPM) and a super fine stone. They had come from Gerber knives. It was the system Gerber set up for their dealers at that time to sharpen the Gerber knives, (at least that is what the owner told me). The knives were sharpened into the oncoming wheel.
After sharpening the blade was de-burred on a hard felt wheel with jewelers rouge, but this time it was NOT into the oncoming wheel. One guy tried that, (he forgot), of course it cut into the felt wheel and sent the knife flying into his leg.
Fortunately it did not hit with the edge. It hit him with the handle & bruised his leg. He was very lucky. I finally convinced the owner that we needed a belt sander, which is far more versatile. After we got the belt sander the wheel got very little use.
If it has the + it is stainless.
Without the + it could be either one.
If I am buying one for a user, I look for rust spots or little rust pits.
Then I know it is carbon steel, as long as it is not rust transferred onto a ss blade that has been stored next to a rusty carbon blade. I have seen that happen.
One sure way to tell if it is carbon steel is to sharpen it on a belt sander or a super fine stone (not recommended unless you have the proper equipment and a LOT of practice because you sharpen into the oncoming wheel)- If you use either of these methods you will get a shower of sparks with carbon steel. Good stainless does not spark, or gives only an occasional spark.
A word about the grinding wheel-
In the 1980s I went to work in a cutlery store as manager. The sharpening system we had was a Baldor buffer motor (1700 RPM) and a super fine stone. They had come from Gerber knives. It was the system Gerber set up for their dealers at that time to sharpen the Gerber knives, (at least that is what the owner told me). The knives were sharpened into the oncoming wheel.
After sharpening the blade was de-burred on a hard felt wheel with jewelers rouge, but this time it was NOT into the oncoming wheel. One guy tried that, (he forgot), of course it cut into the felt wheel and sent the knife flying into his leg.
Fortunately it did not hit with the edge. It hit him with the handle & bruised his leg. He was very lucky. I finally convinced the owner that we needed a belt sander, which is far more versatile. After we got the belt sander the wheel got very little use.