Understanding Blade Grinds

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Jun 26, 2021
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As an old guy who has carried a pocket knife since I had pockets, dressed small game and deer for many years, I've never paid much attention to the various blades I've carried (hopefully I won't be voted off the island).
I'd like to know more about the grinds commonly found on Buck's 100 series fixed blade knives as well as their folding offerings (110's, 112's, etc.).
I'm asking this to learn from you all and hopefully not "stir a pot."
Thank you
 
ya talking blade shapes such as clip points, drop points, spear, etc...or grinds such as hollow ground, full flat ground, saber ground etc?

if grinds, and going by memory..... majority I think are hollow ground on the 100s and 110. other than some special runs where they did a ffg, that I remember.
 
Hollow grinds are the norm on select/pro models. This generally goes for standard 110s/112s and phenolic 100 series too, with a few special build exceptions. Flat grinds are being offered on some elite models.

I prefer hollow for most cutting (hunting) and flat for slicing (food) and filleting fish. No preference for EDC.
 
This will be fun...

Generally speaking... I prefer hollow grinds in my hunting knives. I won't go in to the "why" because it should be obvious. This would be for field care, not necessarily meat processing. So dreassing and breaking into primals.

I generally prefer flat grinds in my kitchen knives and processing knives.

For EDC, I dont really have a preference, but more of my folders for carry are hollow while more of my fixed blades are flat. I think its merely a coincidence that is the case.

Here's the rub... blade cross section and the geometry associated is what I struggle with.

For instance... If you have a blade height of say 1.25", and you have a flat grind that is only .625", you will have a more obtuse/thicker blade cross section than if you would grind the full 1.25", so in the case where you arent grinding the full blade height, I usually prefer a hollow grind.

Here's a real head scratcher for me. A hollow ground chef knife sounds like a good idea. Thin, lean profile should be good and slicy.
And it is... unless you're slicing blocks of cheese, potatoes, or anything else thats more than about an inch thick with little give.
Screenshot_20250624_181218_Chrome.jpg

Compare that to a flat ground blade from spine to the cutting edge and you'll scratch your head too.

I love the idea of my elk handled kitchen set, but I dont love them. I actually like the BOTM kitchen knives better than the elk set. They all slice exponentially better than the elk set. At some point I'll pack them up and let someone else love them.

Screenshot_20250624_181058_Chrome.jpg

I will say that neither hold a candle to my Wusthoff set, but I do like using the BOTM knives.

Got well off topic, but I'm bored, and you asked....

20250624_204127.jpg
 
Here's something I put together several years ago when the conversation came up.

These are cross sections of various grinds.
Red = Hollow
Pink = Flat
Teal = Scandi / Saber
Yellow = Convex

These are all drawn from the spine, mean full flat, full hollow, etc... You could apply this geometric example to any place on the blade where the contour is cut. Like in the Buck chef knife where the grinding starts at the lower 3rd of the blade height. The radius making the hollow grind is considerably smaller than it would be if ground from the spine. Think small circle versus big circle. Which is going to cut better in meat/cheese?

grinds (002).jpg
 
Awesome illustration! Some non technical, generalized, extremely surface level thoughts on the uses. Others could explain this much more effectively, so please consider this worth what you paid for it 😉

Hollow - think hunting. sharp (typically less material near the edge), thin edge is easy to resharpen. Can bind up when slicing or carving, not the strongest.

Flat - think kitchen. great for slicing, doesn't bind up mid slice, usually not as thin at the edge as hollow, but thinner than scandi/saber/convex. Moderate strength.

Scandi/saber - think bushcraft. strong, easy to resharpen (can be single bevel), great for splitting and bushcraft because the blade acts as a wedge. Not as thin, not as great a slicer.

Convex - think bushcraft. very strong, maintains sharpness for a long time. Not the best slicer (generally thicker near the edge), benefits from more specialized resharpening skills.
 
MT that is the best illustration that I have seen on the subject thanks for sharing again , Pete
 
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