- Joined
- Dec 5, 2004
- Messages
- 58
Can anyone tell me info on these miracle blade's and why these metal's are no good for hunting and fighting knives? and why do makers stick to traditional metals? 
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understanding miracle metals
- Thread starter Photo Murray
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2003
- Messages
- 15,288
Because you've been conned - there are no "miracle" metals. Some of the fancier blade materials are expensive and may be difficult to sharpen.The ceramic blades should be returned to the maker to sharpen. There is a wide choice of blade materials to fit every need .All good combinations of reasonable price ,reasonable performance and reasonable ease of sharpening.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2004
- Messages
- 58
Thanks for your pointer 
. So what type of metal would you choose for hunting and/or fighting blade, that holds a edge well. And how hard is to hard?
. So what type of metal would you choose for hunting and/or fighting blade, that holds a edge well. And how hard is to hard? 
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 90,915
A good first place to go is http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqs.shtml to read the FAQ: Steel Types by Joe Talmadge.
There are two types of steel, high carbon and alloy. Real steel is iron and carbon. It is tough, takes a good edge, and holds it. There are different high carbon steels, some of which are better than others.
Alloy steels add other characteristics, mainly stainlessness. Since this interferes with much of steel's ability to sharpen up and endure impact, other elements are added in to make the now corrosion-resistant alloy steel to regain some of the abilities of the high carbon varieties.
As these steels become more complex, and the manufacturing process more expensive, the cost of the final product rises significantly. For the price of cleaning and occasionally oiling your blades, you can use high carbon steels instead of paying a premium for the latest and greatest alloys.
Fads in ceramic, cobalt, and titanium blades come and go. some of these are excellent for specialized purposes. But if it sounds too good to be believed ... don't
At least as important as the steel itself is the design and manufacturing process, especially the heat treatment, to get the best performance out of it, including the optimal hardness. Some steels will take a greater hardness (measured on the Rockwell scale) without losing toughness. Others, when hardened beyond reason, will become brittle.
There are two types of steel, high carbon and alloy. Real steel is iron and carbon. It is tough, takes a good edge, and holds it. There are different high carbon steels, some of which are better than others.
Alloy steels add other characteristics, mainly stainlessness. Since this interferes with much of steel's ability to sharpen up and endure impact, other elements are added in to make the now corrosion-resistant alloy steel to regain some of the abilities of the high carbon varieties.
As these steels become more complex, and the manufacturing process more expensive, the cost of the final product rises significantly. For the price of cleaning and occasionally oiling your blades, you can use high carbon steels instead of paying a premium for the latest and greatest alloys.
Fads in ceramic, cobalt, and titanium blades come and go. some of these are excellent for specialized purposes. But if it sounds too good to be believed ... don't
At least as important as the steel itself is the design and manufacturing process, especially the heat treatment, to get the best performance out of it, including the optimal hardness. Some steels will take a greater hardness (measured on the Rockwell scale) without losing toughness. Others, when hardened beyond reason, will become brittle.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
Sometimes the simpler old fashoned materials are more versitile and affordable than some new whiz bang just out of the lab material. Keep in mind that developing a good all round blade material takes time and tinkering. A few years ago stainless blade steels were not too reliable because of difficulty with proper heat treating but heat treating technology has caught up..
Two years ago a new variant of good old D2 appeared on the market, can't find it anymore, it didn't live up to the hype and the toolmakers who it was made for decided it was no better than the old D2 that they were already familiar with and the old stuff was more affordable to boot.
About the same time I tried out some LiquidMetal (TM), same story too difficult to work with, too expensive for the market, and given the price there were better alternatives out there.
The best edge holding material in my book is Stellite 6K (TM) but I sell very few knives made from it because of the cost. It may be the best but if it won't sell............you know the rest.
Two years ago a new variant of good old D2 appeared on the market, can't find it anymore, it didn't live up to the hype and the toolmakers who it was made for decided it was no better than the old D2 that they were already familiar with and the old stuff was more affordable to boot.
About the same time I tried out some LiquidMetal (TM), same story too difficult to work with, too expensive for the market, and given the price there were better alternatives out there.
The best edge holding material in my book is Stellite 6K (TM) but I sell very few knives made from it because of the cost. It may be the best but if it won't sell............you know the rest.