Undetectable Wood Filler?

D

Duzzy

Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
468
I apologize if this is the wrong place, wrong forum, etc. However, I figure with all of the talent I see on a regular basis someone here might know the answer I need.

I'm just learning the "artistic" side of wood working, I'm a carpenter by trade, and this is my newest project.

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(The sunlight was fading fast so I had to edit some of the photos--hence the unnatural look.)

I'm making a lamp for my sister for her birthday. However, this being my first project of this kind there were several things I didn't think through before jumping in headfirst with both hands tied behind my back (Like drilling the cord hole before turning the lamp as thin as possible...). What I need help with is filling the "chuck" marks left by the lathe in a manner that will make them disappear, as much as physically possible, before I finish the piece.

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The wood is walnut, and I'd like to finish it with Tung Oil if possible. It's only at 600 grit and I'd like to get it up to 2000 if possible; so the solution can involve sanding. I was thinking very fine sawdust packed into the divots and then adding super glue?

I have seen wood "fillers" that you can apply after you stain something a certain color; but the only ones I've found are for "walnut" colored stain and not walnut wood.

Any help would be appreciated immensely. Here's a poor photo of what the finished product will, eventually, look like:

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Thank you.

-Duzzy
 
When turning you should leave extra so you can cut off the chucked portion of the project.
 
Cut yourself a spacer piece the same diameter as your top, made out of the same wood, and glue it to the top. You could even do a routered edge on the spacer to dress it up a bit. That will cover the chuck marks. Larry
 
I would think you could laminate a piece of you choice type material or like jll346 said just cut it off. Kind of like putting a guard on a knife that hides the tang hole. The bottom you could just use felt. I really like the lamp. The shape definately says custom and not store bought. Good job.
 
No filler is undetectable.
Cover the marks, or remove them.
Great lanp!
 
By now you have learned several things to do.....and not to do.... in turning.

Here are some tips:
1) Drill the center hole first. Use it to turn on center.
2) Turn a tenon on each end to hold the piece with. This protects the ends, allows you to make clean cuts on the end of the turning, and prevents the turning tool striking the chuck. When done with the turning, part the tenons down until almost gone.The remainder of the tenon is cut off after the piece is finished on the lathe.
3) Ask these type of questions before you turn the piece!
4) BF is where you can get an answer to almost any question.
5) On the lathe is the best place to do the grain filling, final sanding , and finishing. Nothing will look better than a turned French polish. Properly done, all you will have to do is carefully separate the tenon stumps and touch up the top.
6)There is a small decorative brass cap used to cover the knurled nut,and small unfinished spot ( left by the tenon) on lamp turnings.It goes over the nut and under the socket.You can get one from any wood turning or lamp supply store or catalog.

On your turning, I would put felt on the bottom, and a brass plate on the top. The brass plate should be easy to shape, or you can purchase one ready made from a lamp shop. Brass discs can be ordered online cheaply. If a brass cap doesn't appeal to you, glue on a piece of contrast wood ( ebony,paduak,etc.) and trim to flush.
 
I have had alot of luck using wedges to fill large gaps like that. cut a wedge from a scrap piece so the grain direction matches the slot or hole, put glue in the hole and then tap the wedge into place, sand and you really have to know it is there to see it. Do the same with the holes using a peg. I dont see anything there that cannot be filled using this method.
 
There were numerous complications to this project.

First and foremost probably my own inexperience. This is only the 10th piece I've turned, and only the second piece I've turned off center. And to be honest, turning off center scares me a little. The first practice piece I tried on slipped and reset itself near the edge of the wood--but another 1/8" and it probably would have done a good bit of damage to my face shield. There's also the problem of the lathe and chisels not being mine. Another department at work has no room for the lathe so they keep it in our shop. Most of the tools are dull; and there's been no interest in letting me learn how to sharpen them.

Also, turning is how I de-stress at work. So sometimes I don't take the time to think things through completely--I just need to start turning, which is how this project started. It's not a good habit, but it happens sometimes.

I like the idea of laminating a piece on the top; and even one of the bottom? That would make the base a little bigger; and it might look really neat. Thank you everyone for your help; I'll try have more input when I'm not working so much.

-Duzzy
 
I would get some turning tools of your own. Keep them sharp and for your use only. My high school wood shop teacher gave me some old turning tools that I reground and no one else used. Haven't used them in a while, but I still have them. I think some place like Harbor Freight should have some turning tools that won't hurt the wallet too much.

One thing I used to do is I would use a cross cut saw to X the piece of wood where the spur digs in to give it a better bite into the wood to prevent slippage.

Ric
 
Tracy made a great point when turning a lamp or anything that needs wire run through it. Drilling your hole through the wood before you start turning makes life MUCH easier.
 
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