Uneven bevel how do I even this out?

Hi,
Which metal thing in the picture is the knife? :D

Simple way, cut at 90 degrees into the stone to make a nice reflective flat,
grind one side at your fixed angle until you raise a burr
cut into the stone at 90 degrees again to remove burr and make a nice reflective flat
grind other side at your fixed angle until you raise a burr
now they should be even
 
It's a plane blade not a Knife.

To correct the bevel you will need to apply more pressure on the right side of the bevel (as shown in the photo). Work on making the Shinogi line straight and use it as a reference while sharpening.

Sharpening wood working tools that have large bevels is all about where you focus your pressure. From what I see you are "leaning" to the right while sharpening, which is the left side of the blade in the photo.
 
Your both wrong, its a chisel but that doesnt really matter. :D

I believe the thickness isnt even, It was forged by hand (top flat wasn't ground flat). It may be okay still to follow the Shinogi line.

I've flattened the blade to the point where the bevel looks even. The left side in the photo is slightly higher angle say 13 degrees on the left, 10 on the right.

I can see what I want to do, but dont know how to control the blade to even it out. Would increasing pressure on the left (left side in picture) thin the angle as well as even out the line? Pressure near the edge or farther back where the shinogi line is or middle?
 
That's the part we can't help with, adjustments are made in real time by the second with skilled hands, there is no way to put that into words.

Practice, practice, practice.
 
DavidL41 said:
Your both wrong, its a chisel but that doesnt really matter. :D

I believe the thickness isnt even, It was forged by hand (top flat wasn't ground flat). It may be okay still to follow the Shinogi line.

I've flattened the blade to the point where the bevel looks even. The left side in the photo is slightly higher angle say 13 degrees on the left, 10 on the right.

I can see what I want to do, but dont know how to control the blade to even it out. Would increasing pressure on the left (left side in picture) thin the angle as well as even out the line? Pressure near the edge or farther back where the shinogi line is or middle?
Click to expand...

Shim it
I think I understand the picture now.
I had a similar issue , paring knives with unsharpened blade section (ricasso) at choil and bolster area
so what I did was wrap paper around the edge and
wrap paper around the stone so you have paper on paper sliding action
And then take the ricasso from 90 to 15 degrees per side
I did one on harbor freight diamonds, and one on dollar tree alumina stone
Yes, keeping pressure on just the corner will keep the other part in the air, but it gets wobbly fast without shimming

now you could have half the blade hanging off the stone, but shimming/masking is seemed easier to me
 
bucketstove said:
Shim it
I think I understand the picture now.
I had a similar issue , paring knives with unsharpened blade section (ricasso) at choil and bolster area
so what I did was wrap paper around the edge and
wrap paper around the stone so you have paper on paper sliding action
And then take the ricasso from 90 to 15 degrees per side
I did one on harbor freight diamonds, and one on dollar tree alumina stone
Yes, keeping pressure on just the corner will keep the other part in the air, but it gets wobbly fast without shimming

now you could have half the blade hanging off the stone, but shimming/masking is seemed easier to me
Click to expand...

I didnt understand a word of this lol. What is the purpose of shimming? Why do I want the Ricasso (front flat section?) to be convex? Is that what you are suggesting. The knife already has the ricasso that tapers off that can be seen in the pic.
 
Last edited:
Found out the blade is slightly warped. Slightly C shaped looking down at the edge. On the back of dmt stone I checked for straightness.I have two options im thinking of. Either try to sharpen the flat back flat (probably not the right option) or try to straighten the flat side of the chisel.

Any tips to straighten this chisel? I seen a video where they took a ball peen hammer and tapped the edge on a metal block with a direct path straight to the ground (like a table leg). Is there any other options?
 
That's mainly used for laminated Japanese chisels, I'm not sure it would work on a solid single piece of steel.

Do you know the maker of the chisel?
 
Nobuyoshi.

It is laminated. Super blue and mild steel. I will test out the ball peen hammer, unless there is any better options.
 
The hammer is the only method I know.

When you do it, don't strike to bend, lightly tap it into shape. Too heavy of a hit could completely distort the blade so start with a light weight hammer and soft blows.
 
DavidL41 said:
I didnt understand a word of this lol. What is the purpose of shimming? Why do I want the Ricasso (front flat section?) to be convex? Is that what you are suggesting. The knife already has the ricasso that tapers off that can be seen in the pic.
Click to expand...

heh:D
The purpose of shimming is to help you even out the uneven grind,
so you don't grind the one corner that is good while trying to fix the bad corner
so you don't have to balance and use your fingers press harder on the bad corner to avoid grinding good corner

I'm using my experience with a paring knife to explain how it worked for me

but seeing how your plane is bent and not unevenly ground, well :) you should probably heed jason's advice, and bend it over :D
 
Jason B. said:
The hammer is the only method I know.

When you do it, don't strike to bend, lightly tap it into shape. Too heavy of a hit could completely distort the blade so start with a light weight hammer and soft blows.
Click to expand...

I will keep that in mind
 
bucketstove said:
heh:D
The purpose of shimming is to help you even out the uneven grind,
so you don't grind the one corner that is good while trying to fix the bad corner
so you don't have to balance and use your fingers press harder on the bad corner to avoid grinding good corner

I'm using my experience with a paring knife to explain how it worked for me

but seeing how your plane is bent and not unevenly ground, well :) you should probably heed jason's advice, and bend it over :D
Click to expand...



Will probably need to do skimming. Is this your own method, no videos on it.
 
DavidL41 said:
Will probably need to do skimming. Is this your own method, no videos on it.
Click to expand...

Yes, my idea,
just an extension of using masking tape to avoid scratching the blade
and leveling a wobbly table.

I wrapped paper becaue the tape I had was too sticky and I didn't want to clean that from my stones.


Sorry, no video
 
I learned to sharpen tools years ago. Increasing the pressure on one side sounds like the way to do it, but the truth is counter-intuitive. To remove the minimal amount possible you focus on the area you DON'T want to grind. You're aiming to grind the area that needs it and go as light as possible on the area that doesn't.

By thinking this way, one's natural tendency towards uneven pressure (we all do to an extent) is mitigated, and you're only working the area that needs it. BUT, you're not applying extra force which will help things balance out quicker than if you over compensate. I don't know if this makes sense but in the long run you'll be better at sharpening
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top